Hi all, I have a question about resealing a tank. I found a deal on a 38 gallon tank with stand for $30. I figured the stand alone was worth that, and the seller stated that the tank did not leak. I put 10 gallons of water in it, and that didn't leak, but after looking at some of the edges of the sealant, I decided that it either needs to be resealed or replaced. It is a fairly old tank. A new one goes for around $75, which isn't bad, but I am thinking about resealing the old one. I've researched this, and some people say to completely disassemble the tank, some say you at least have to dig the silicone from between the glass panes, and others say not to disturb the silicone between the panes, and just redo the inner silicone. I really need to trust the tank before I put it in service, and would like to know what the general consenus is regarding tank sealing. I probably could handle redoing the inner seals, and possibly dig it from between the glass panes, but I definitely am not up for tearing the whole thing down and sealing everything.
reseal aquarium
Started by
Guest_stuber2_*
, Dec 04 2010 10:59 AM
15 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_EricaWieser_*
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Posted 04 December 2010 - 02:18 PM
The majority consensus using google says to just scrape off the inner silicone, not the stuff between the glass panels.
They say to scrape the dry silicone off, clean the glass with something like rubbing alcohol, and apply new silicone to the glass.
I like Nick Spinelli's guide; it's got color photos. http://www.aquarticl...g_Aquarium.html
The ingredients he lists are: "Here are the things you will need. Razor knife or utility knife blades, windex, paper towell, plastic scotchbrite pad/sponge, and depending on the size of the project either a squeeze tube or a caulking gun and a tube of aquarium safe silicone and a vacuum for removing the debris."
Seems easy enough. You don't have to completely break down the entire aquarium, just scrape off the silicone on the inside, vacuum out the pieces, clean the surface, and reapply.
They say to scrape the dry silicone off, clean the glass with something like rubbing alcohol, and apply new silicone to the glass.
I like Nick Spinelli's guide; it's got color photos. http://www.aquarticl...g_Aquarium.html
The ingredients he lists are: "Here are the things you will need. Razor knife or utility knife blades, windex, paper towell, plastic scotchbrite pad/sponge, and depending on the size of the project either a squeeze tube or a caulking gun and a tube of aquarium safe silicone and a vacuum for removing the debris."
Seems easy enough. You don't have to completely break down the entire aquarium, just scrape off the silicone on the inside, vacuum out the pieces, clean the surface, and reapply.
Edited by EricaWieser, 04 December 2010 - 02:25 PM.
#3
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 04 December 2010 - 10:09 PM
Well, if it leaks, then it leaks all the way through. This is why I don't like to just seal the inside of the tank. You need to identify where the leak is coming from. If the front or back glass, then you just have to take off that piece of glass and reseal it. If one of the ends (at the bottom) then you will need to take off either the front or back glass AND the offending end piece.
#4
Guest_gzeiger_*
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Posted 05 December 2010 - 05:13 AM
Meh, a new bead of silicone around all the inside seams will hold the water in. Silicone between the glass is there mostly to hold the glass sheets together, and really shouldn't need to function as the seal. It's true that there must be a leak in it, but I don't think that warrants removing a pane of glass.
I repaired the bottom seam of a tall 60 gallon before as described above, and the seal has held for over a year.
I repaired the bottom seam of a tall 60 gallon before as described above, and the seal has held for over a year.
#5
Guest_stuber2_*
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Posted 05 December 2010 - 04:43 PM
Thanks for the replies, everyone. Like I said, I haven't detected leaks, so I may just reseal the inside. But, a buddy of mine is looking for a terrarium, so I may just sell him this tank and start over with a new one, it will give me some peace of mind. But, if he decides he doesn't want it, then I will try the reseal.
#6
Guest_Mike_*
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Posted 05 December 2010 - 08:56 PM
I would fill it all the way and see if it leaks, if not I would use it - if its not broke don't fix it.
You might open a can of worms.
You might open a can of worms.
#7
Guest_EricaWieser_*
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Posted 06 December 2010 - 10:52 AM
I agree with Mike.I would fill it all the way and see if it leaks, if not I would use it - if its not broke don't fix it.
You might open a can of worms.
My own tank is who knows how many years old. I bought it off of craigslist for $25 (It's a 55 gallon tank). It had mouse guts and snake parts on the inside of it still (being used as a terrarium) and smelled like reptile. I filled it with water, the water stayed in it, and I decided not to do anything about it. It's been running for almost two years now no problem. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just because it's "old" doesn't mean it won't still work.
Edited by EricaWieser, 06 December 2010 - 10:52 AM.
#8
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 07 December 2010 - 12:54 AM
Meh, a new bead of silicone around all the inside seams will hold the water in. Silicone between the glass is there mostly to hold the glass sheets together, and really shouldn't need to function as the seal. It's true that there must be a leak in it, but I don't think that warrants removing a pane of glass.
I repaired the bottom seam of a tall 60 gallon before as described above, and the seal has held for over a year.
I'm not new at this. It depends on whether you want a permanent repair or a band-aid. Meh! Back at you!!
#9
Guest_GreenRiverKY_*
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Posted 07 December 2010 - 09:10 AM
I have resealed four aquariums in my time in the hobby and completely re-built two.
In my experience, it is best to just reseal the inside of an aquarium if there is a pinhole leak or if the silicone is flaking off. I would never take one pane of glass off and re-silicone it (that's the true definition of a band-aid in this case). You need a continuous seal of silicone that is applied at the same time and cured at the same time whether it be between the glass panels or on the inside. New silicone will not properly bond to old silicone. IMO, you can only do one of two things for it to be 100% safe. You can completely rebuild the tank if it's leaking like crazy or leave the tank intact and re-seal the inside if you want to replace unsightly silicone or a fix small pinhole leak.
OP, in your case I would just reseal the inside. It is a huge pain to disassemble a tank and and it's unnecessary.
In my experience, it is best to just reseal the inside of an aquarium if there is a pinhole leak or if the silicone is flaking off. I would never take one pane of glass off and re-silicone it (that's the true definition of a band-aid in this case). You need a continuous seal of silicone that is applied at the same time and cured at the same time whether it be between the glass panels or on the inside. New silicone will not properly bond to old silicone. IMO, you can only do one of two things for it to be 100% safe. You can completely rebuild the tank if it's leaking like crazy or leave the tank intact and re-seal the inside if you want to replace unsightly silicone or a fix small pinhole leak.
OP, in your case I would just reseal the inside. It is a huge pain to disassemble a tank and and it's unnecessary.
#10
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 07 December 2010 - 11:19 PM
I would never take one pane of glass off and re-silicone it (that's the true definition of a band-aid in this case).
Healthy disagreement here. I have repaired and built many, many tanks up to 220 gallons. If there is a leak that goes through the seam, this is a case of structural joint failure and requires repairing the joint, not just a paint job.
Unless I misunderstand you, you have to completely remove the sealant from the joint you are repairing - you are not putting new sealant on top of old sealant. You need a lot of razor blades. I have never had a tank that I repaired leak again.
#11
littlen
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Posted 08 December 2010 - 09:00 AM
I would agree that IF possible it would be better to take apart and reseal the entire tank. But for someone who has never resealed a tank---(and a used, 38 gallon for $30 bucks at that)---it might only be worth resealing/re-seaming the inside only. Even if it only lasts a year, you could sell lemonade during the summer to raise the $75 to buy a new one next year. Irate, I'm with you in that I'd rather have peace of mind and know that the integrity of the tank/seal is 100% rather than half *** it. Stuber, perhaps you can get a used 10gal for free the has a leak and try your hand at taking it apart and putting it back together. (IMO, any tank that springs a leak or has a crack becomes a herp tank).
Nick L.
#12
Guest_GreenRiverKY_*
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Posted 08 December 2010 - 11:13 AM
I try to keep an open mind about things I think I know a lot about, especially when someone with more experience is talking. You are probably right, but let me try to explain where I am coming from on this.Healthy disagreement here. I have repaired and built many, many tanks up to 220 gallons. If there is a leak that goes through the seam, this is a case of structural joint failure and requires repairing the joint, not just a paint job.
Unless I misunderstand you, you have to completely remove the sealant from the joint you are repairing - you are not putting new sealant on top of old sealant. You need a lot of razor blades. I have never had a tank that I repaired leak again.
Ok, when you build a tank from scratch the initial step is to mock up the panes to check for fit. There will inevitably be small imperfections/gaps at the joints. When "gluing" the glass together with silicone it is my understanding that you must have a continuous bead and simultaneous cure of all of these connections for structure and water tightness. Just like you wouldn't put new silicone on top of old silicone or scab new to old on the "paint job" of the inside seam, you do not want old silicone and new silicone to butt up against each other in the structural joints. With that in mind, when you repair the structural joint of one panel, you do not have that continuous seal. If you are correct that this is not absolutely necessary, then I have wasted a lot of time in rebuilding leaky tanks and also defending my position in this thread.
#13
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 09 December 2010 - 12:15 AM
I try to keep an open mind about things I think I know a lot about, especially when someone with more experience is talking. You are probably right, but let me try to explain where I am coming from on this.
Ok, when you build a tank from scratch the initial step is to mock up the panes to check for fit. There will inevitably be small imperfections/gaps at the joints. When "gluing" the glass together with silicone it is my understanding that you must have a continuous bead and simultaneous cure of all of these connections for structure and water tightness. Just like you wouldn't put new silicone on top of old silicone or scab new to old on the "paint job" of the inside seam, you do not want old silicone and new silicone to butt up against each other in the structural joints. With that in mind, when you repair the structural joint of one panel, you do not have that continuous seal. If you are correct that this is not absolutely necessary, then I have wasted a lot of time in rebuilding leaky tanks and also defending my position in this thread.
I have not found this to be a problem - the interface between old silicone and new silicone is quite small but it holds water. I understand your concern - it is just that I have not had any problems with the way I do it. Not saying it is the best way - it just works. For me, anyway
#14
Guest_berrymilan_*
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Posted 22 January 2011 - 07:25 AM
Leaks can be dangerouse in winter because once they start they take a long time to repair, firstly you need to identify where the leak is exactly, no need to disassemble the tank fully you can fix it with little effort, there are lots of products available in the market now a days, so no need to worry.
#15
Guest_mikez_*
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Posted 23 January 2011 - 03:50 PM
Can't resist giving my $00.02 
I am the master of handmedown, free by the side of the road and otherwise free, old, questionable tanks. Hamster tanks with silicone chew marks, homemade tanks that sat dry for ten years, stuff from the dump.
Over the decades, I have learned there are only two types of tanks; Tanks that DO NOT leak and tanks you put snakes in.
I can't see the point of disturbing the seal of a perfectly water tight tank.
For many years, all my tanks were kept in my cellar where leaks would not be so devestating as elsewhere. That gave me leeway to use tanks others wouldn't trust, that plus chronic cheapness.
Tanks that don't leak in the first week are not likely to leak at all assuming you have a flat level surface for it.
I am the master of handmedown, free by the side of the road and otherwise free, old, questionable tanks. Hamster tanks with silicone chew marks, homemade tanks that sat dry for ten years, stuff from the dump.
Over the decades, I have learned there are only two types of tanks; Tanks that DO NOT leak and tanks you put snakes in.
I can't see the point of disturbing the seal of a perfectly water tight tank.
For many years, all my tanks were kept in my cellar where leaks would not be so devestating as elsewhere. That gave me leeway to use tanks others wouldn't trust, that plus chronic cheapness.
Tanks that don't leak in the first week are not likely to leak at all assuming you have a flat level surface for it.
#16
Guest_AquaHolic_*
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Posted 24 January 2011 - 10:02 PM
I just re-sealed a 225 gallon and have resealed many tanks in my days. First take a razor/scraper and remove all silicone in the corners, DO NOT DIS_ASSEMBLE the tank or remove silicone between glass. Get it all off though, ALL OF IT!!! Then take rubbing alcohol and clean the glass, this is to remove any oils on glass. Make sure tank is dry, corners, no signs of moisture. I recommend letting sit for couple days if you have can. Purchase a clear 100% silicone product. It Does not have to be aquarium grade, but if you feel better spending the extra cash because someone added aquarium grade writing on the product, then god bless because you have more cash than I do. Set a nice heavy bead in the corners and with one steady pull set the bead into the corners. Let set for at least 2 days. And that is that.
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