I have plans to eventually set up a 75g "Maumee River" aquarium. I will be using two HOB filters, but want to add a little current. I plan to stick a power head on the left side of the tank. My question is, should I leave the intake right where it is on the power head, or would it be a good idea to attach tubing to the intake, and run the tubing under the substrate, to the far right side? I could then attach a sponge or mesh to the opening of the tube. Thanks
-Jake
Adding Current
Started by
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, Dec 31 2010 04:52 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
Michael Wolfe
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Posted 31 December 2010 - 04:56 PM
I have plans to eventually set up a 75g "Maumee River" aquarium. I will be using two HOB filters, but want to add a little current. I plan to stick a power head on the left side of the tank. My question is, should I leave the intake right where it is on the power head, or would it be a good idea to attach tubing to the intake, and run the tubing under the substrate, to the far right side? I could then attach a sponge or mesh to the opening of the tube. Thanks
-Jake
I have seen the set up you are talking about, but I think for a tank as large as a 75 it is not really needed. I have a the filter outflow and a couple of powerheads in teh back corner of my 75 and I get a nice current across the front of the tank without having any sort of special return system. I would suggest against it and just keep it simple.
On a differnet note, I have been to the Maumee, and while I think there are a lot of nice fish there, if you are really trying to model the tank on the river it will be rather boring... just a box of opaque water?
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#3
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Posted 31 December 2010 - 05:01 PM
Here is what I did.
http://forum.nanfa.o...h__1#entry50685
I ended up not using the pvc plumbing as the bends restricted the flow too much. I ended up making the pipe shorter and moved the powerheads down closer to the bottom.
http://forum.nanfa.o...h__1#entry50685
I ended up not using the pvc plumbing as the bends restricted the flow too much. I ended up making the pipe shorter and moved the powerheads down closer to the bottom.
#4
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Posted 31 December 2010 - 05:35 PM
Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be keeping it simple and not extending the intake.
Haha, well I guess it won't be mimicking the Maumee in ALL aspects... Although I did hear somewhere that the word "Maumee" meant "clear water" in a native American language. I just looked into it shortly and didn't find anything on the subject, it would be quite ironic though, seeing the river in its current state...
Edit: Also, what GPH would you recommend for a single powerhead in the 75g? I would like a current along most of the front of the tank, nothing super strong, but something a few darters would appreciate.
-Jake
On a differnet note, I have been to the Maumee, and while I think there are a lot of nice fish there, if you are really trying to model the tank on the river it will be rather boring... just a box of opaque water?
Haha, well I guess it won't be mimicking the Maumee in ALL aspects... Although I did hear somewhere that the word "Maumee" meant "clear water" in a native American language. I just looked into it shortly and didn't find anything on the subject, it would be quite ironic though, seeing the river in its current state...
Edit: Also, what GPH would you recommend for a single powerhead in the 75g? I would like a current along most of the front of the tank, nothing super strong, but something a few darters would appreciate.
-Jake
Edited by jakemyster44, 31 December 2010 - 05:43 PM.
#5
Michael Wolfe
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 11:49 AM
Edit: Also, what GPH would you recommend for a single powerhead in the 75g? I would like a current along most of the front of the tank, nothing super strong, but something a few darters would appreciate.
-Jake
I wouldn't recommend a single powerhead... I like what josh did with having two (or maybe even three, you have the width in a 75 for it)... what size are those, josh? It is probably more cost effective, and certainly has more of a redundant back up system to have two or three separate powerheads.If it were me and I had the money, I might just buy three hydor korolla (I might also learn how to spell) pumps put two lower and one a little higher... not only would you get enough current, but you might be able to create some nice turbulence my using multiple sources.
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#6
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 12:52 PM
If you were to truly emulate the Maumee, you would need your powerhead array to pulse catastrophically for weeks at a time, and then dwindle to next to nothing 
Where are you at in this muddy mess? I'm in Toledo.
I have an article online that may offer some insight: http://www.farmertod...e_fish_tank.pdf
In this case, I used an inverted Rio 2100 with a spray bar that created great flow in both 75 and 100 gallon aquariums. The only hitch is the electricity consumption and heat. This could be done with any variety of powerheads - I like the Rio's because they're boxy and fit nicely in the corner. I think the Rio 2100 is 700 gph? There will be some loss in circulation from head, but it's negligible as far as I'm concerned.
I've also been using the Koralia pumps for awhile now, although they just don't have the kick that I'd like them to have. They tend to create really turbulent flow (as compared to the more laminar flow the spray bar creates), which reduces the efficiency to the point where I have 3 of them to make for one Rio pump - thus negating any benefits for using them. Plus, then there's a ton of black plastic hanging from the back. Not a big fan.
I can try to round up better pictures of the powerhead and bar, or just get a video clip I have up on YouTube.
This reminds me, I need to write an update to this article. Shame on me. I've covered a lot of ground since this was written. Sheesh.
Also, FWIW, the Maumee was never a clear water stream, so I'm not sure where that came from (perhaps local musings about what it would like without all the ag? I used to think this way too). While the headwaters were crystal clear prairie and woodland streams, once meeting the mainstem from the confluence with the Auglaize, it quickly became tea stained blackwater river with all the tannins coming from the Great Black Swamp.
Todd
Where are you at in this muddy mess? I'm in Toledo.I have an article online that may offer some insight: http://www.farmertod...e_fish_tank.pdf
In this case, I used an inverted Rio 2100 with a spray bar that created great flow in both 75 and 100 gallon aquariums. The only hitch is the electricity consumption and heat. This could be done with any variety of powerheads - I like the Rio's because they're boxy and fit nicely in the corner. I think the Rio 2100 is 700 gph? There will be some loss in circulation from head, but it's negligible as far as I'm concerned.
I've also been using the Koralia pumps for awhile now, although they just don't have the kick that I'd like them to have. They tend to create really turbulent flow (as compared to the more laminar flow the spray bar creates), which reduces the efficiency to the point where I have 3 of them to make for one Rio pump - thus negating any benefits for using them. Plus, then there's a ton of black plastic hanging from the back. Not a big fan.
I can try to round up better pictures of the powerhead and bar, or just get a video clip I have up on YouTube.
This reminds me, I need to write an update to this article. Shame on me. I've covered a lot of ground since this was written. Sheesh.
Also, FWIW, the Maumee was never a clear water stream, so I'm not sure where that came from (perhaps local musings about what it would like without all the ag? I used to think this way too). While the headwaters were crystal clear prairie and woodland streams, once meeting the mainstem from the confluence with the Auglaize, it quickly became tea stained blackwater river with all the tannins coming from the Great Black Swamp.
Todd
Edited by farmertodd, 01 January 2011 - 12:56 PM.
#7
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 03:23 PM
I'm in Perrysburg. I figure I might as well give some insight as to what I have planned for the tank. As already stated, this will be a 75g. I will be running an Aquaclear 70 as well as a Whisper 60 for filtration. For the substrate, I plan to place a piece of plastic egg crate/light diffuser to help disperse the weight of any larger rocks. I will then lay down a 3" layer of sand (for any plants I add). The sand will be covered with rocks of varying size from the Maumee. The rocks will be carefully placed to allow for hiding places. I also have a large piece of driftwood that I may put along the back wall, but I am tempted to go out and try and find a nice root mass that will fill out a back corner. As far as plants go, I will see what I manage to find in the Maumee (not the highest of hopes for this, haha) but will likely settle with using a few anacharis and/or vallisneria americana. I am new to keeping native fish (other than some bluegill in a 55g with a pair of painted turtles), although I have had several tropical tanks setup in the past. I am used to keeping all sorts of herps, so this will be a bit different for me. Due to this fact, I am completely new at learning the native fish species (other than the game fish). Looking through some of Nate Tessler's trip reports on the Maumee, I have a general idea of what I would like to keep in the tank, but am unsure on compatibility. I'd really like to include several tadpole madtoms, as well as a nice amount of darters (again unsure on sp. and compatibility between them). It is my understanding that the madtoms inhabit areas with little to no current, and the darters are found in the currents/riffles. It is my hope that I am able to create both habitats within the 75g, perhaps with the help of larger rocks and powerhead placement to create a decent sized area with no swift moving water. I am a fan of orange spotted sunfish, and understand that they stay smaller and like the slower moving waters as well. I would also like to add a small school of shiners. Again, I am unsure of the compatibility of these species, and am doing a bit of research to help increase my knowledge a bit. I'd appreciate any advice/criticism on the subject.
I look forward to reading through your article! I suppose the Maumee River may not be many people's first choice to replicate in an aquarium, but I find it fascinating to see what beautiful fish can be "pulled from the muddy Maumee".
Thanks for all the help,
-Jake
I look forward to reading through your article! I suppose the Maumee River may not be many people's first choice to replicate in an aquarium, but I find it fascinating to see what beautiful fish can be "pulled from the muddy Maumee".
Thanks for all the help,
-Jake
#8
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 04:11 PM
Sand is silicon dioxide. It doesn't have any iron, magnesium, calcium, or any other nutrients for the plants to use to grow. If you have sand, you might also want to consider adding fertilizer.
There are a couple commercial fertilizers available specifically for the aquarium, and I recommend those over the land-plant-designed fertilizers because common garden fertilizers can cause algae blooms and fish death in the aquarium.
Or, you could add a fertile layer of substrate under the sand. It would still look like you have a sand substrate because that would be the top layer, but the plants would be able to reach down deep into the fertile layer with their roots and get some nutrients. Putting a layer of soil, kitty litter, or river clay under sand is a common method employed to get plants to grow in what appears to be just barren sand.
You might find this interesting: http://www.thekrib.c...rate-jamie.html
And you mentioned Vallisneria americana. This might interest you: http://www.plantedta...trate-i-do.html
There are a couple commercial fertilizers available specifically for the aquarium, and I recommend those over the land-plant-designed fertilizers because common garden fertilizers can cause algae blooms and fish death in the aquarium.
Or, you could add a fertile layer of substrate under the sand. It would still look like you have a sand substrate because that would be the top layer, but the plants would be able to reach down deep into the fertile layer with their roots and get some nutrients. Putting a layer of soil, kitty litter, or river clay under sand is a common method employed to get plants to grow in what appears to be just barren sand.
You might find this interesting: http://www.thekrib.c...rate-jamie.html
And you mentioned Vallisneria americana. This might interest you: http://www.plantedta...trate-i-do.html
Edited by EricaWieser, 01 January 2011 - 04:15 PM.
#9
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 04:57 PM
I'm definitely considering a layer of kitty litter. I have a bottle of "Yamato Green", which has proven to be a quality aquarium fertilizer for the live plants in my 10g ghost shrimp aquarium, with a substrate of 2" of pure play sand. The idea of having to add less, or no fertilizer to the aquarium appeals to me greatly. I plan to have most of the bottom covered with small rocks from the river, but would still like a thin top layer of sand in case there are any gaps (I like the look better than kitty litter) If I were to put 3" of kitty litter on the bottom and then cover that with a thin (.5"-1") layer of sand, do you suspect that the sand would settle to the bottom, and the kitty littler would become exposed? I wonder simply this simply based upon the nature of smaller particles to settle to the bottom, and larger to move towards the top layer... I suppose a thicker layer of sand might be the best way to prevent this. With kitty litter as a substrate, is fertilization still necessary? Will the kitty litter need to be replaced periodically to replace the nutrients consumed by the plants? Thanks
-Jake
-Jake
Edited by jakemyster44, 01 January 2011 - 05:13 PM.
#10
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Posted 01 January 2011 - 10:48 PM
Nope. The person growing Vallisneria on the planted tank forum link didn't use any, and look at their plants. Those photos were taken 16 months after setup. http://www.plantedta...trate-i-do.htmlWith kitty litter as a substrate, is fertilization still necessary?
If you look at the "Cation Exchange Capacity" (CEC) section of this page: http://fins.actwin.c...8/msg00047.html , Jamie Johnson's work shows that the ability of the litter to replenish its nutrients from the water column is higher than fluorite and higher than soil.Will the kitty litter need to be replaced periodically to replace the nutrients consumed by the plants? Thanks
Here, I'll copy and paste the important part:
That means that if the kitty litter is in contact with water, it will not run out of nutrients over time because it can replenish itself from minerals floating in the water column.CEC (me./100g) . . . . . . . Matrix
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<0.1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clean sand
24.3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soil
27.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Litter
1.7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fluorite
Edited by EricaWieser, 01 January 2011 - 10:49 PM.
#11
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 01:09 PM
You might be interested in using soil as a substrate instead of kitty litter. Many people on this forum do; I am particularly fond of it. I have used kitty litter before, and wasn't really happy with it. It also isn't as foolproof as it sounds - there are different sources, and some have higher nutrient levels than you likely want. A method that lots of folks like is a layer of soil topped with a 1" layer of fine gravel.
#12
Michael Wolfe
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 02:44 PM
You might be interested in using soil as a substrate instead of kitty litter. Many people on this forum do; I am particularly fond of it. I have used kitty litter before, and wasn't really happy with it. It also isn't as foolproof as it sounds - there are different sources, and some have higher nutrient levels than you likely want. A method that lots of folks like is a layer of soil topped with a 1" layer of fine gravel.
Second that... I have had success with Georgia red clay (top soil always make me think of somethign dark and there is none of that around here except for store bought stuff) from my backyard covered with sand and/or small gravel.
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#13
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 06:08 PM
It also isn't as foolproof as it sounds - there are different sources, and some have higher nutrient levels than you likely want.
Would soil not be just as variable in its level of nutrients?
If I decide to go with soil over kitty litter, although our yard is not sprayed with pesticides, etc. several of our neighbors use the products, so I'd be hesitant to collect soil from my yard. My family does own some wooded land where I know the soil would be safe to use. Would soil from a deciduous forest work well in an aquarium setup? I know a lot of people recommend clay, but that would be a little harder to harvest (still possible). How about buying some topsoil from a store? Thanks
-Jake
#14
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 06:21 PM
Sure, soil can be just as variable. I was meaning only that kitty litter isn't as foolproof as it may seem (coming from a bag, it might seem pretty uniform within the same brand).
Woodland soil should do fine. I would be a touch concerned if it were a coniferous woodland, though - pH would likely be affected. But deciduous forest soil should be very good. (As always, "your milage may vary". Try not to collect around any black walnuts. You aren't likely to anyway, though.) I have found decidous forest leaves to make for great growing medium.
If you dig down a couple feet in your forest soil (or yard), you are likely to encounter more clay than on the surface.
Purchased soil is fine as well, but be sure that it does not have added fertilizer or manure. Do not use "potting soil", but make sure it says "top soil".
Regarding your neighbors and pesticides, you can also check out the topography of your house. If your yard is higher than your neighbors', water from their yards will not be draining into yours. Likewise, if they are across the street and there is a storm drain or drainage ditch, runoff from their yard is likely separated from yours. If you think your soil is OK but you just want to be doubly sure before you load the whole tank up, you could set up a small experiment with the soil and a couple of fish. (I've never bothered, but if it makes you feel safer, then it's certainly easy enough to do).
Woodland soil should do fine. I would be a touch concerned if it were a coniferous woodland, though - pH would likely be affected. But deciduous forest soil should be very good. (As always, "your milage may vary". Try not to collect around any black walnuts. You aren't likely to anyway, though.) I have found decidous forest leaves to make for great growing medium.
If you dig down a couple feet in your forest soil (or yard), you are likely to encounter more clay than on the surface.
Purchased soil is fine as well, but be sure that it does not have added fertilizer or manure. Do not use "potting soil", but make sure it says "top soil".
Regarding your neighbors and pesticides, you can also check out the topography of your house. If your yard is higher than your neighbors', water from their yards will not be draining into yours. Likewise, if they are across the street and there is a storm drain or drainage ditch, runoff from their yard is likely separated from yours. If you think your soil is OK but you just want to be doubly sure before you load the whole tank up, you could set up a small experiment with the soil and a couple of fish. (I've never bothered, but if it makes you feel safer, then it's certainly easy enough to do).
#15
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 03:13 PM
I agree that soil can be a good substrate in the aquarium.
My own personal reasons for choosing kitty litter over soil were that
1. I couldn't go and dig something up. I live in a dorm and don't have a backyard to dig in. So I had to buy a bag of something.
2. The kitty litter was only $3.16 for a 25 pound bag at Walmart, while the bagged gardening soil had styrofoam bits in it, was more expensive, and had fertilizers added to it.
The reason why I advocated kitty litter was that I just didn't want you to use sand, is all. Soil or kitty litter, either is a great choice, and either would be much better than sand for your plants to grow in.
My own personal reasons for choosing kitty litter over soil were that
1. I couldn't go and dig something up. I live in a dorm and don't have a backyard to dig in. So I had to buy a bag of something.
2. The kitty litter was only $3.16 for a 25 pound bag at Walmart, while the bagged gardening soil had styrofoam bits in it, was more expensive, and had fertilizers added to it.
The reason why I advocated kitty litter was that I just didn't want you to use sand, is all. Soil or kitty litter, either is a great choice, and either would be much better than sand for your plants to grow in.
Edited by EricaWieser, 04 January 2011 - 03:15 PM.
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