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Filtration setup for 125 gal
#1
Guest_JohnO_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 12:00 PM
So I have to devise a filtration setup for it. What I'm keeping in it: small natives from the Cumberland and Ky river drainage: just about any darter that's interesting and not endangered from those areas, plus a mix of dace and shiners to liven up the rest of the tank. As with the 75, I plan on getting the substrate and water from my own creek, which is packed with rainbow and fantail darters.
Since this 125 has no filters, I'm debating what to do with it. The big question is: is a reef filter desirable? I have one on my 75 that came with the tank, but don't know if it's beneficial for these natives. Have a protein skimmer that I could build into a filter, but is that useful on fresh water?
Any ideas?
#2
Guest_AOmonsta_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 12:44 PM
Imo a Fluval FX5 canister would be ample for a 125.
Is the saltwater filter your referring to a sump? if so you could use it without the skimmer.
On my 150, I have a pretty simple setup with the sump and just added an AC110 hob for extra filtration.
#3
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 04:13 PM
Edited by EricaWieser, 31 January 2011 - 04:21 PM.
#4
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 04:19 PM
#5
Posted 31 January 2011 - 04:30 PM
Deep substrate, plants in the back, cannister filter, extra powerheads for current (Hydor koralias if you want to splurge).
Works on my 75, should work on a 125 just as well.
#6
Guest_mywan_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 04:30 PM
#7
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 04:52 PM
Yup. Sorry if that didn't copy and paste right. I'm posting from a mobile device. Anyway, yeah, there are some really high quality, low cost filter/sump designs online and if it were me trying to figure out what to do for a big tank, a diy filter is the way to go.The YouTube link didn't work for me, but I think it's this one...
Oh, some side advice that wasn't requested but might be helpful: lights are much less expensive at a home supply store than they are at a pet store. I got a four foot long light at home depot for $30 including full spectrum bulbs when two two foot aquarium lights with full spectrum bulbs would have cost $120 at the pet store. Thinking outside the box when setting up the fishtank can save you a lot of money when compared to buying items that are marketed for pets.
#8
Guest_mikez_*
Posted 31 January 2011 - 05:02 PM
If by reef filter, you mean wet/dry or other sump based set ups, yes they will work just fine. I've even seen set ups where the 75 would be turned into the sump for the 125. You can really load up on media and water volume and keep a high population density.
#9
Guest_JohnO_*
Posted 01 February 2011 - 12:49 PM
Yes, I think I'll build my own filter. Been looking at Berlin setups - kinda pricey if you buy them, but geez, some heavy lexan sheet and glue, you could do it yourself, and have a lot of fun in the process.
#10
Guest_scottefontay_*
Posted 01 February 2011 - 02:18 PM
#11
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 01 February 2011 - 10:53 PM
So they sell you a kit? I don't get it. You could just go to a hardware store and buy those pieces yourself. My local Home Depot (the hardware store chain near me) sells those PVC joints for $0.27 each and the pipes for 10 feet for $5. They will even cut it to whatever length you want for free.I've been chewin' on whether or not to just bone-up and buy a kit from these guys www.glass-holes.com or to build a PVC over flow. I like this one, its different http://nd.edu/~lego/...ww/reef_diy.htm
#12
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
Posted 02 February 2011 - 12:30 AM
That's what I have on my 110. That plus an Ocean Clear filter and Little giant pump.
#13
Guest_scottefontay_*
Posted 02 February 2011 - 09:07 AM
So they sell you a kit? I don't get it.
the Glass-Holes (gotta like that name!) sell overflow kits and return kits with everything you need minus the sump and pump. The other link was simply a diagram that, yes, you could build from common PVC parts....
#14
Guest_dmarkley_*
Posted 03 February 2011 - 08:37 AM
I would just go with fluidized bed and save yourself all the money and trouble.
That's what I have on my 110. That plus an Ocean Clear filter and Little giant pump.
Can you supply a little more info on your fluidized bed thingie?
Dean
#15
Guest_mywan_*
Posted 03 February 2011 - 10:18 AM
Here is a DIY fluidized bed filter:Can you supply a little more info on your fluidized bed thingie?
Dean
http://www.sydneycic...-bed-filter.htm
Basically the way they work is that water is pumped under sand, or the filter media. This media rises and tumbles (held in suspension) but does not leave the bed chamber. Normal sponge or other such media tends to clog with time, reducing their effectiveness and requiring maintenance. Bio balls, live rock, or similar media avoid this clogging, but at a cost of far less surface area for the bacteria to grow on. A fluidized bed filter works like bio balls or miniature live rock, growing filtering bacteria on their surface, but has the advantage of hugely increased surface area for the bacteria to grow. Water is pumped under the sand keeping in suspended while it remains contained in the filter. The huge surface area of the media gives it the advantages of sponge or cotton filter with the non-clogging advantage of bio balls or live rock, because unlike sponges and such there is no pores to clog.
Edited by mywan, 03 February 2011 - 10:18 AM.
#16
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 03 February 2011 - 11:02 AM
Mywan is correct. Also, here is an article about fluidized bed filters from Grant Gussie of the Calgary Aquarium Society: http://www.calgaryaq...Bed_Filter.html (article taken from The Calquarium)Can you supply a little more info on your fluidized bed thingie?
And here's another design blueprint: http://www.firsttank...t/fluidized.php
The only problem I see with a fluidized bed reactor is that none of the waste builds up in the filter. It all goes right back into your tank in the form of nitrate, which you would then have to remove with a water change.
Perhaps the best fluidized bed filter design is one on a tank that changes its own water with a rigged up system connected to the water lines. You just turn a valve and the tank empties itself. Turn another valve and the tank refills itself. *nods* That would be a great design.
Edited by EricaWieser, 03 February 2011 - 11:14 AM.
#17
Guest_rickwrench_*
Posted 05 February 2011 - 09:09 PM
Forget the filter. And the air pumps.
An inch of dirt and then a small handful of osmokote pellets sprinkled under your creek bed substrate, and then load the tank up with vals and hygro (difformis and kompact). Maybe a bunch of anubias.
200 watts of light 10 hours a day.
Use a couple of power heads to keep the water moving (but no big surface ripples)
Never change your water or clean a filter again. Yeah, you'll have to do some periodic pruning.
If you ever do have water issues in an unfiltered planted tank, you have too many fish in the tank.
Rick
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