Aquaticlife aquarium lights

I have placed an Aquaticlife Freshwater T-5 HO fixture on a 20 gallon high tank, thinking that I could have better success with plants. But after 3 months, I mostly have a lot of algae. The fish load is pretty light. I started out with 6 Heterandria formosa, but have since lost 2. I added an algae eater and it has grown quite a bit. Recently, I added 4 Jordanella floridae. The algae has been stablized somewhat, but the plants; java moss, water sprite, and a bacopa are still smothered in algae.

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with these fixtures or any ideas concerning the algae growth.

Harry Knaub

How much wattage and how long do you leave it on each day? Even though it's a tall tank a HO fixture may be overkill without CO2. You may need to reduce the lighting. You could try removing a bulb if it's a two bulb fixture, decreasing the amount of time it's on (10 hrs seems to work well, I do two 5 hr periods interrupted by a few hours mid-day), and/or adding floating plants like frog's bit to reduce the amount of light and soak up some of the excess nutrients.

Edited by decal, 14 February 2011 - 10:51 PM.

Preface: I'm not a plant expert.

Post:
I don't know about water sprite, but java moss and bacopa are two plants that grow slower than certain algaes (for example cladophora). If you had a faster growing plant species, then you could have as much light and nutrients as you wanted and the plants would outcompete the algae. I've got Ceratophyllum demersum and myriophyllum in my tank with full spectrum lighting, two four foot long 700 lumens-each bulbs and very nutritious kitty litter substrate. The plants grow way faster than the algae. It's nice. Picture: http://gallery.nanfa...er/005.JPG.html
My light: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053

Try searching your local fish stores and http://www.aquabid.com for some other plant species that are pretty to you. If you've got faster growing plant species, the algae will get outcompeted for nutrients and light and won't stand a chance in your tank. Or at least that's what works for me.

You could also completely nuke the tank with something like a Pond Clear product or CopperSafe™ by Mardel, which liquifies plants, and then start out with all brand new plants that aren't contaminated with that species of algae. Cladophora can be a real pain. That's kind of a drastic step, though.

Edited by EricaWieser, 14 February 2011 - 11:29 PM.

Harry,
A lot of people have problems with phosphates in their municipal tap water - with good lighting, the phosphate can cause a nasty algae bloom.

For a quick fix, I might try dosing with hydrogen peroxide at the rate of 1 oz per 10 gallons. Safe for almost all plants; seems to be safe for inverts and all fish.

If you search the forum for peroxide, there are a couple good threads out there.

If phosphates are at the root of your problem, then reducing them may be necessary - either by phosphate absorbing media or by using RI or DO water.

Good luck! Algae can be a pain to be sure!

How much wattage and how long do you leave it on each day? Even though it's a tall tank a HO fixture may be overkill without CO2. You may need to reduce the lighting. You could try removing a bulb if it's a two bulb fixture, decreasing the amount of time it's on (10 hrs seems to work well, I do two 5 hr periods interrupted by a few hours mid-day), and/or adding floating plants like frog's bit to reduce the amount of light and soak up some of the excess nutrients.

Both bulbs are 24w each and the lights are on 12 hours a day. I think that I will try the 2 hour rest period in the middle of the day. I'm also curious if anyone else has tried these fixtures.

Harry,
A lot of people have problems with phosphates in their municipal tap water - with good lighting, the phosphate can cause a nasty algae bloom.

Are those problems with too much phosphates or with any phosphates at all. Thanks for all of the replies so far, everyone.

Harry Knaub

Are those problems with too much phosphates or with any phosphates at all. Thanks for all of the replies so far, everyone.

Harry Knaub

Too much. Phosphate is often added by the municipal water supplier to combat corrosion in the pipes.

Hi Harry!

I scored a used 36 T 5 fixture at one of the CCA auctions, and put it on top of my 65 high. Hygrophilia corymbosa and Water wisteria are doing really well in the tank. T 5's are bright. Maybe you should only use one tube?

Both bulbs are 24w each and the lights are on 12 hours a day. I think that I will try the 2 hour rest period in the middle of the day. I'm also curious if anyone else has tried these fixtures.

Hi Harry!
T 5's are bright. Maybe you should only use one tube?

This seems to be a consensus recommendation, I may try this. Thanks

Harry Knaub

This seems to be a consensus recommendation, I may try this. Thanks

Harry Knaub

Definitely cut back to 1 bulb, or start injecting co2/ferts to compensate.

Definitely cut back to 1 bulb, or start injecting co2/ferts to compensate.

That did help, Thanks

Harry Knaub

That did help, Thanks

Harry Knaub

I say, get another tank for the other bulb! he. he.
I grow high light plants in 10g. tanks with one 18Watt T5 cool white, or 6,700K bulb, no problem. Too much light with the soil method can be a pain. I have 16 heavily planted aquascapes with soil/sand substrates, and no artificial co2. Some of my tanks are close to Amano quality. Patience is key as is starting of with a large amount of plants to keep algae at bay.
Happy planting!
BTW the pics of my tanks are old in case you happen to look for them. Will be posting new ones soon.

I had very good luck with Water Lettuce as described above. It grew explosively and had to be removed in large quantities, but seemed to lower the light at the substrate and probably the dissolved nutrients enough to allow what I had thought were high-light plants (Rotalla, Val and some grasses collected from shallow water in full sun) to finally survive the smothering algae. That was in a 55 with 216 watts of t5HO.