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Possible pygmy sunfish setup


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#1 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 02:19 AM

Hi all! Extremely new to natives (but not aquaria) and was thinking of going with an Elassoma sp. as they seem like such a neat fish. So here is what I have in mind mixed in with some questions...

Tank size:
I am thinking of getting a 5 gallon (16"x8" footprint) because of space issues. I know it is on the low side but space is an issue. A 10g could be possible although I would rather not.

Stocking:
Either E. evergladei or okefenokee. I'm a bit unsure on numbers though...should I stock in pairs or more harem-like? And then how many max would fit in a 5g? I was thinking maybe just a pair but the more, the merrier.

Plants:
I believe I am correct in saying that these guys like dense planting. Probably will go for plants like najas, vals, hornwort and maybe some sort of moss. Any other plants that would be good to have? I am planning on a silica sand substrate but would be interested in adding a base of soil for underneath. What type should I get?

Equipment:
Ambient room temp can range from 60F at the very coolest to sometimes 90+F on those rare days in the late summer. Would a heater still be necessary? Also, I have seen that sponge filters are best for these guys to keep water movement at a minimum.

Feeding:
This seems to be the tricky part. I've never reared any live foods before but sure wouldn't be against trying it. What are the easiest (and cheapest) cultures to try? I will definitely try getting them on some frozen food but wouldn't want to count on that...

Thanks ahead of time for the help!

#2 Michael Wolfe

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 08:16 AM

Welcome to the forum, and welcome to native fish...

As with anything, you will get an opinion from everyone, but here is my experience

Tank size: 5 gallons is fine

Stocking: I'm from Georgia, so I like okefenokee (plus its just fun to say). Starting with a pair or trio in a small tank would be great (they will likely breed). I have had 6 or so (only two males) in a 10 gallon and that was a good set up.

Plants: Dense is good, and I mean really dense... if you can see open water or the fish from 6 feet away it is too open. My advise is go natural... dirt from your backyard (particularly if you are fortunate enough to live where there is clay soil) and sand or gravel over that to hold it down some. Plant cant really grown in just silica. Hornwort is great.

Equipment: No heater required. And if you really choke it up with plants correctly and go with the soil substrate, no filter required either.

Feeding: All of the Elassoma I have kept go pretty quickly to frozen foods so don't worry about that. My other trick for 'culturing live food'. is just growing some water lettuce outside. then occasionally bring one in and put it in the tank... there will be all sorts of stuff in the roots that you cant see but they can and do hunt. But you can easily maintain these fish on froze blood worms, shrimps, et.
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#3 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 01:22 PM

Seems like a fine setup to me. I agree with what Michael Wolfe said, don't use a heater. A filter is also unnecessary if you have a densely enough planted setup (you can look up a Walstad tank to see what is densely planted 'enough').

They're going to prefer the Ceratophyllum demersum to the najas grass and vallisneria, just to tell you early. They prefer fine leafy plants like ceratophyllum and cabomba to straight-leafed plants like vals. Broad leafed plants are good too, like anubias. They'll hide under the wide leaf.

Microworms are a great food for the fry, once your fish spawn. Link: http://www.waynesthi.../microworms.htm
They're easy to culture and the fry love to eat them.

Californian blackworms, if you can find any, are a great food for the adults. It's possible to breed them sustainably as long as you have a fridge you're willing to put them in.

P.S. The substrate you need depends on the plant you choose.
Najas guadalupensis grows fine in sand, which is unusual for a plant.
Vals prefer nutrient rich mud, clay/kitty litter, soil type stuff.
Anubias do better if their roots are tied to a stick and left floating in the water column than if their roots are buried.
Ceratophyllum is rootless and doesn't care what substrate you use. It'll rot if you bury it; instead you can weight it down or wrap it around something that sinks to get it off the surface. Make sure there's still water flow around it, or it'll rot.

Edit: I see now that you said "Also, I have seen that sponge filters are best for these guys to keep water movement at a minimum."
They don't dislike water movement. Here is a video of Elassoma gilberti playing in the current:

Edited by EricaWieser, 17 July 2011 - 01:41 PM.


#4 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 11:35 PM

Thanks for the quick responses!

So is there a specific number I should shoot for in a 5g?

And IF I do happen to go with a 10 gallon: 1) would some blue fin killies (Lucania goodei) be acceptable tankmates? and 2) would there be enough room to do both?

I guess I am more of a`traditional aquarist when it comes to filtration. I understand and respect the Walstad method, however, I would much rather be dealing with a filtered tank, especially when keeping fish I am completely unfamiliar with. Who knows, I may end up removing it later.

Now here is the kicker...are these fish hardy enough to deal with being left alone for a period of approximately 3 weeks? In the past I have never had issues with the fish I did have, but I am not sure how picky Elassoma are...

If all this works out I am definitely going to give these guys a try. The only other thing standing in my way is getting my hands on some. Where are places that sell Elassoma evergladei, okekenokee or gilberti? (thanks for the vid of those Erica!)

#5 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 10:35 AM

Thanks for the quick responses!

So is there a specific number I should shoot for in a 5g?

And IF I do happen to go with a 10 gallon: 1) would some blue fin killies (Lucania goodei) be acceptable tankmates? and 2) would there be enough room to do both?

I guess I am more of a`traditional aquarist when it comes to filtration. I understand and respect the Walstad method, however, I would much rather be dealing with a filtered tank, especially when keeping fish I am completely unfamiliar with. Who knows, I may end up removing it later.

Now here is the kicker...are these fish hardy enough to deal with being left alone for a period of approximately 3 weeks? In the past I have never had issues with the fish I did have, but I am not sure how picky Elassoma are...

If all this works out I am definitely going to give these guys a try. The only other thing standing in my way is getting my hands on some. Where are places that sell Elassoma evergladei, okekenokee or gilberti? (thanks for the vid of those Erica!)

I'll try to answer your questions in order.

A 5 gallon tank would support one male and a few females, for example two or five. The number of females isn't really limited, but the males won't all color up unless each given their own space for territory. If overcrowded they stay in submissive coloring so they don't antagonize the dominant male and get themselves beaten up. You could get two in case you're worried about one dying in transit.

Lucania goodei wouldn't make good tank mates because Elassoma max out at an inch and they can get up to 4 inches (I've never kept Lucania myself, so I'm just going with the maximum size on fishbase.org). Just stick with pygmy sunfish alone in your 5 gallon. I've got a 55 gallon and I'm having problems finding a tank mate that doesn't scare them into not breeding.

You can filter the tank, it's no problem. Just make sure to cover your filter intake with fiberglass screen mesh or a sponge, because Elassoma eggs are the size of a grain of sand. They only grow to an inch maximum size, so all your babies and juveniles will remain millimeters long for a while. You don't want them to get sucked into the filter.

If you leave them alone for 3 weeks you're going to also want to leave a large number of live Californian blackworms with them. I'm finding with flakes that their stomachs get sunken after not eating for a few days (three days and they look like skeletons) so they really do need to eat frequently. Live blackworms will give them the freedom to eat when they want. The blackworms won't rot. They might actually breed if you feed them crushed fish flakes every day as if you were feeding fish.

You can find pygmy sunfish on aquabid.com sometimes in the native fish section, Jonah's aquarium occasionally sells them, and NANFA members will sometimes trade or share with one another in the Trading Dock section of this forum. You can also catch them with a fishing license and a dipnet; E. gilberti and okefenokee are found in Florida and the lower bit of Georgia. In my opinion, your best chance is to pay for NANFA membership and ask in the trading dock.

Edited by EricaWieser, 18 July 2011 - 10:37 AM.


#6 Guest_Newt_*

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 11:22 PM

Michael and Erica's advice sounds good to me, based on my limited experience with E. zonatum.

Re: Lucania goodei: Either Fishbase has an error or that 4" Lucania was a freak. They are typically quite small (similar to a zebra danio in size and shape) and inoffensive. I kept some with my banded pygmies and saw no aggression, but I also saw no reproduction. Elassoma fry and eggs are bite-sized and even a gentle fish like L. goodei may be tempted to eat them.

#7 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 12:10 AM

Re: Lucania goodei: Either Fishbase has an error or that 4" Lucania was a freak. They are typically quite small (similar to a zebra danio in size and shape) and inoffensive.

Ah, typo! I meant to type 2.4 inches, not 4. *headdesk*
Link to fishbase: http://fishbase.org/...nia-goodei.html
6.0 cm = 2.36 in
I meant to say that a 2.4 inch fish is too large to keep with 1 inch (max) pygmy sunfish.

Here are scaled photos of full grown Elassoma gilberti
male: http://gallery.nanfa...mber 2.jpg.html
female: http://gallery.nanfa... photo.jpg.html

Their fry reach half an inch at 4 to 5 months.

Edited by EricaWieser, 19 July 2011 - 12:14 AM.


#8 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:02 AM

Well, I definitely would want to focus on the sunfish but no breeding wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker for me...but on the other hand I dont want them to be too stressed out by larger fish.

#9 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:18 PM

Well, I definitely would want to focus on the sunfish but no breeding wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker for me...but on the other hand I dont want them to be too stressed out by larger fish.

Their lifespan is only 1-2 years (in the wild, at least) so when I approached keeping them I figured it was like keeping some of the more famous species of exotic killifish; if you don't breed them, soon you don't have any.

I also see pygmy sunfish as a kind of "pay it forward" fish because they're so rare. After I got mine and bred them, I sent groups of five breeding age adults off to two NANFA members and one OCA member. With a fish so unknown and difficult to get your hands on as Elassoma, it's sort of necessary to pay them forward to get the word out about them. Only 1 or 2 of the 50-ish fish loving people at the OCA meeting I took them to knew what pygmy sunfish were before I brought a bag there. Now a lot more do. Pay it forward, but with fish. :)

Anyway, you don't have to breed them if you don't want to, but their coloration when they're not in a breeding mood is really quite drab when compared to their dancing when breeding, so it makes them a more colorful and interesting fish to see them breed.

Video of fish in not-breeding mode, just chilling:


Video of fish in breeding mode, colorful and active:

Edited by EricaWieser, 19 July 2011 - 01:22 PM.


#10 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 01:54 PM

Well, if that is the case I would certainly not want to get stuck with no breeding and then not have any fish at all!

And I know this is probably the same idea as with the L. goodei but what about Leptolucania ommata? They stay a bit smaller at about 1" or so...again, not going to be too upset if it still isn't a great idea.

So far I've been having trouble finding much of anything but "lots" of Elassoma which are usually mixed sex and mixed ages as well. At this point I am leaning more towards setting up the 10 gallon and just dealing with the extra space. What numbers should I be shooting for then? Would I still only want one male and a few females or would a 10 gallon provide enough territorial room for another male?

edit: also, would some grass shrimp (Palaemonetes sp.) be ok?

Edited by jpappy789, 19 July 2011 - 01:56 PM.


#11 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:05 PM

Well, if that is the case I would certainly not want to get stuck with no breeding and then not have any fish at all!

And I know this is probably the same idea as with the L. goodei but what about Leptolucania ommata? They stay a bit smaller at about 1" or so...again, not going to be too upset if it still isn't a great idea.

So far I've been having trouble finding much of anything but "lots" of Elassoma which are usually mixed sex and mixed ages as well. At this point I am leaning more towards setting up the 10 gallon and just dealing with the extra space. What numbers should I be shooting for then? Would I still only want one male and a few females or would a 10 gallon provide enough territorial room for another male?

edit: also, would some grass shrimp (Palaemonetes sp.) be ok?

Shrimp eat the microworms that would otherwise stay on the bottom all day, wiggling, the perfect food for your fry. If there are shrimp in the tank, all the worms will be gone before a few hours are up, not a whole day.

I've never mixed Leptolucania ommata and pygmy sunfish because L. ommata don't breed unless their pH is around 5 and I don't get fish I can't breed. Maybe some other people around here could tell you if their pygmy sunfish bred in the presence of L. ommata.

When I had my Elassoma gilberti in a 10 gallon tank, two males colored up and only the larger one could successfully breed with the females. Whenever the smaller one tried it, this happened:


The pygmy sunfish went on to really populate that 10 gallon tank with quite a lot of themselves (20-40 from an original 5) but there was only ever enough space for one or two colored up males at a time. The other males remained in submissive coloration. That's why I gave them 55 gallons; you can easily see 5 males courtship dancing at the same time, with ever more colored up.

They don't hurt one another, though. It's not like with some fish, where one male will kill all the others. It's just that only 1-3 males are colored black with blue striped like that per ten gallons or so. The other males will remain clearish greyish. These non-dominant males will color up if something happens to take the dominant male out of commission. The extra males are insurance for the population against something happening to the dominant male. So, my point is, you can get as many pygmy sunfish as you like or are in the large order. They won't fight to the death or anything. They'll be fine.

Edited by EricaWieser, 19 July 2011 - 02:16 PM.


#12 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:17 PM

Then the shrimp seem like a no to me. Hopefully someone can give me an idea on the L. ommata's then. This tank is about a month away from initial setup so I still have a lot of time to plan.

I would love to give them my 55g sitting in storage...if only I had the room...but then again I have way too ideas for tanks as it is...

#13 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:57 PM

This tank is about a month away from initial setup...

Do you have any tanks running right now?

If not, you might want to start your nitrogen cycle now. It's easy to start your cycle for the first time. You just buy a filter, the sponge-like media for the inside, and some sort of bucket if you don't have the tank yet. Then add water, and add fish flakes every day. The nitrosomonas and nitrospira bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate will slowly colonize the sponge-like filter media. Then when you're ready for fish, your cycle's all set up already.

If you already have fish tanks running, then you might want to buy an extra filter media spongey and stick it in your filter. My favorite are the $4 'artificial sea sponges' from Walmart, very nice texture, picks up a lot of small particles. The bacteria will slowly colonize this extra sponge, and by the time you're ready for your new tank you can just stick this sponge into the new tank's filter and the tank will be cycled.

Edited by EricaWieser, 19 July 2011 - 03:00 PM.


#14 Michael Wolfe

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 02:58 PM

Then the shrimp seem like a no to me. Hopefully someone can give me an idea on the L. ommata's then. This tank is about a month away from initial setup so I still have a lot of time to plan.


L. ommata are good tank mates for your pygmy sunnies... you will not get the kind og population explosion that Erica has been able to create... but depending on your planting and the layout of your tank you might get some production. Would be very interesting to try. Like Erica, I have seen pygmy sunnies under larger leaves... almost makes you wonder if you could somehow create a two level tank... with a plant that grew up a little and spread out so the pygmy sunnies could live under but didnt grow all the way to the surface so that the pygmy killie could cruise the surface... hmmmmmm!?!?
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#15 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 06:19 PM

Do you have any tanks running right now?

If not, you might want to start your nitrogen cycle now. It's easy to start your cycle for the first time. You just buy a filter, the sponge-like media for the inside, and some sort of bucket if you don't have the tank yet. Then add water, and add fish flakes every day. The nitrosomonas and nitrospira bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate will slowly colonize the sponge-like filter media. Then when you're ready for fish, your cycle's all set up already.

If you already have fish tanks running, then you might want to buy an extra filter media spongey and stick it in your filter. My favorite are the $4 'artificial sea sponges' from Walmart, very nice texture, picks up a lot of small particles. The bacteria will slowly colonize this extra sponge, and by the time you're ready for your new tank you can just stick this sponge into the new tank's filter and the tank will be cycled.


Last aquarium was actually torn down a few months ago. I thought I was going to be out of the hobby for a few years but I haven't been able to keep away!

I haven't actually cycled a tank in a few years now since I've always just been able to transfer some established media. I currently have the 10g and could easily start that up right now...I actually considered it but I see no reason not to so everything will be ready once I can get the fish. I am moving back to school in about a month so I don't think I will be able to setup the tank with the plants right now. Would be easier to just do it all once I get there.


L. ommata are good tank mates for your pygmy sunnies... you will not get the kind og population explosion that Erica has been able to create... but depending on your planting and the layout of your tank you might get some production. Would be very interesting to try. Like Erica, I have seen pygmy sunnies under larger leaves... almost makes you wonder if you could somehow create a two level tank... with a plant that grew up a little and spread out so the pygmy sunnies could live under but didnt grow all the way to the surface so that the pygmy killie could cruise the surface... hmmmmmm!?!?


Certainly does present a nice 'scaping challenge...I like!

#16 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 07:54 PM

I am moving back to school in about a month so I don't think I will be able to setup the tank with the plants right now. Would be easier to just do it all once I get there.

The beneficial bacteria will survive a move if placed in a bag of water. Really all you have to do now is hook the filter up to some volume of water (a bucket will do, or that 10 gallon full of water, no aquascaping necessary right now) and provide a nitrogen source. I once used a piece of turkey lunch meat to start the cycle, but you didn't hear that from me. Just put fish flakes every day into the water volume, and the sponge will be colonized by the time you have to leave. Then put the filter media in a bag, like a Kordon bag or one of those plastic bags they give you at a pet shop. Take it with you in the bag and it'll be ready to go when you arrive at school :) As long as you keep feeding them, the bacteria will stay alive. They don't need fish, soil, or plants to be present, just ammonia.

Edited by EricaWieser, 19 July 2011 - 07:59 PM.


#17 Guest_jpappy789_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 08:00 PM

That was the plan...I've already moved back and forth twice now, both with a tank, fish and plants. It will be a lot easier with just an empty tank and a sponge!

#18 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 08:09 PM

It will be a lot easier with just an empty tank and a sponge!

I hear you there. I just graduated from college and got my own apartment for the first time, and the day I moved that fish tank (55 gallons!) for the last time didn't come soon enough. That's actually how I know about the sponge-in-a-bag method. I read that if I kept the filter media wet during moving it stayed basically alive, and it's true.

#19 Guest_Elijah_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 10:31 PM

Well, if that is the case I would certainly not want to get stuck with no breeding and then not have any fish at all!

And I know this is probably the same idea as with the L. goodei but what about Leptolucania ommata? They stay a bit smaller at about 1" or so...again, not going to be too upset if it still isn't a great idea.

So far I've been having trouble finding much of anything but "lots" of Elassoma which are usually mixed sex and mixed ages as well. At this point I am leaning more towards setting up the 10 gallon and just dealing with the extra space. What numbers should I be shooting for then? Would I still only want one male and a few females or would a 10 gallon provide enough territorial room for another male?

edit: also, would some grass shrimp (Palaemonetes sp.) be ok?

I use the Walstad method with no filter in a 10g tank. It is one of my most stable tanks. No algae issues...I keep mostly small leaved plants in it, but have some tall saggitaria in one corner, and a thick carpet of Marsileaceae in the foreground. I keep a cool piece of driftwood covered in java moss where much of the egg laying takes place. The one problem I have is an abundance of ramshorn snails which I am constantly having to catch. My darters in the darter tank love em though!
I have an elassoma Zonatum tank which was loaded with fry until I added L. omatta. I still have some population generation, but it has been reduced. I really dig omattas though.
Anyway, in my 10g. I probably have 15-20 adults and many young of different ages. I have no water quality problems and never do a water change. I just top off.
I started with about six adults. I recommend going with the 10g and six to eight adults to keep the gene pool varied.
I also get a tablespoon of live blackworms and add them to the tank every 2-3 months, or when they appear to be gone. The blackworms colonize the substrate which I do not mind at all. The fish are well fed and you can leave for weeks with no worries. Make sure to rinse the worms in de-chlorinated water as the water they come in is sometimes filthy and may harbor bacteria. I keep a kiddie pool out back with daphnia in it. I bought one portion last year and added it to the pool with some plant matter. Did not find daphnia last year, but this year it was loaded until the weather became really hot. I expect to have a pool full in the fall though. The fish go crazy for daphnia and again their is very little work involved. I have not had much luck keeping cultures indoors though.

#20 Guest_Elijah_*

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 10:33 PM

Last aquarium was actually torn down a few months ago. I thought I was going to be out of the hobby for a few years but I haven't been able to keep away!

I haven't actually cycled a tank in a few years now since I've always just been able to transfer some established media. I currently have the 10g and could easily start that up right now...I actually considered it but I see no reason not to so everything will be ready once I can get the fish. I am moving back to school in about a month so I don't think I will be able to setup the tank with the plants right now. Would be easier to just do it all once I get there.




Certainly does present a nice 'scaping challenge...I like!

Aquatic plants harbor beneficial bacteria too.




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