
Contemplating a Crayfish Set up
#1
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:45 AM
http://www.aquabid.c...ions
#2
Guest_frogwhacker_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 12:02 PM
I checked out the bluecrayfish website a few days ago. Those sure are some pretty crawdads.
Steve.
Edited by frogwhacker, 06 October 2011 - 12:05 PM.
#3
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 12:54 PM
#4
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 01:12 PM
1. Slate cave: http://www.plantgeek...viewer.php?id=6
2. Coconut cave: http://www.fishforum...t-cave-diy.html
3. PVC coated with rocks: http://aquarium.shur...Cave Page 2.htm
4. Party cup caves: www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEO64JqhjRE
5. Terra cotta cave: http://www.cichlidex...stlenose-caves/
Crayfish love caves. They also love escaping the aquarium. Make sure you have a tight fitting lid.
Edited by EricaWieser, 06 October 2011 - 01:17 PM.
#5
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 01:29 PM
I see now that you asked what filtration is best. My response is a fluidized bed filter is best, but if you already bought hang on back filters you can use those. But you should know what a fluidized bed filter is, so the next time you need a new filter, you think of it.So my question is, ... what type of filtration is the best? I have tons of HOB's and have a korilia knock off that has two heads and moves 1300 gallons per hour that COULD be used to make current for them.
I'll quote my post from this previous NANFA topic. http://forum.nanfa.o...tion-for-a-125/
As a chemical engineer and as an aquarium hobbyist, my favorite filter design remains the fluidized bed. The basic idea of it is that you have small particles like sand in a container, and that you push air or water up through the bottom. Initially, at low velocity, the air/water just makes a few bubbles through the particles. But as the flow rate and volume get faster and faster, the bubbles become more and more forceful until eventually the particles move more like a fluid than like objects falling downward. The result of all this moving around is that all sides of the particle get exposed to current and can get colonized by beneficial bacteria. Therefore the surface area in a fluidized bed reactor is very, very large.
Video of what fluidized particles look like:
Shopping:
http://www.marinedep..._content=RB7631
http://www.thatpetpl...6967_a_7c199010
Edited by EricaWieser, 06 October 2011 - 01:33 PM.
#6
Guest_Yeahson421_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 03:46 PM
I see now that you asked what filtration is best. My response is a fluidized bed filter is best, but if you already bought hang on back filters you can use those. But you should know what a fluidized bed filter is, so the next time you need a new filter, you think of it.
The one problem with fluidized beds are power outages. As soon as the power comes back on it kills all of your fish.
#7
Guest_Yeahson421_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 03:58 PM
#8
Guest_davidjh2_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 08:00 PM
For filtration I use HOB's, submersible filters, sponge and canister filters plus powerheads for current. Just be aware that crayfish are masters of escape and will use whatever they can including airlines, power cords and even intake pipes to climb out. Making the tank escape proof is a must. I'm intrigued by that setup Erica I may have to try making one.
You're using a 33 gallon tank, now the rough rule of thumb is 10 gallons per cray but that's just for living space it isn't taking into account the natural aggressive of crayfish. They are not social animals and will fight, kill and eat each other. Cambarus diogenes(devil crayfish) from what I hear are very aggressive tank mates and will go after and kill any other crayfish. Make sure you have plenty of hiding spots and be prepared to move molting crays into a temporary home or they may get eaten.
They are my favorite critters though, they have distinct personalities and are never boring. Here's a video I made a couple of years ago of a baby cray. Video
#9
Guest_gzeiger_*
Posted 06 October 2011 - 09:04 PM
#10
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 07 October 2011 - 09:07 AM
The same reason power returning to any filter might kill your fish. The bacteria die when there's not water flow over them. Pushing all those dead bacteria bodies into your tank spikes the nitrogen levels and sensitive fish can die.Why would power returning to a fluidized bed filter kill your fish?
The argument against fluidized bed filters is that without the sand moving, it all compacts and kills the bacteria. But really any time the water stops moving the bacteria die; hang on back filter, wet dry, etc.
Edited by EricaWieser, 07 October 2011 - 09:16 AM.
#11
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 07 October 2011 - 09:56 AM
You're using a 33 gallon tank, now the rough rule of thumb is 10 gallons per cray but that's just for living space it isn't taking into account the natural aggressive of crayfish. They are not social animals and will fight, kill and eat each other. Cambarus diogenes(devil crayfish) from what I hear are very aggressive tank mates and will go after and kill any other crayfish. Make sure you have plenty of hiding spots and be prepared to move molting crays into a temporary home or they may get eaten.
Of the crayfish in my area (according to that website you provided the link to in your thread) what would be the best species to keep more than one or a group of? I am trying to find out where the "blue" crayfish are in my state because I think I would prefer to find them lol.
Here is tthe linkhttp://iz.carnegiemnh.org/crayfish/country_pages/state_pages/wisconsin.htm
Edited by NVCichlids, 07 October 2011 - 10:14 AM.
#12
Guest_davidjh2_*
Posted 07 October 2011 - 11:21 AM
#13
Guest_Gambusia_*
Posted 07 October 2011 - 01:59 PM
#14
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 07 October 2011 - 02:56 PM
#15
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:45 PM
#16
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:55 PM
Change the color filter on your camera. If it's a digital camera, dig through the settings (and the user manual) until you find different filters. If you reply to this post or private message me with the make and model of your camera, I'll look up the user manual for you. They're usually all online.How do I photograph them to show the true colors?
#17
Guest_davidjh2_*
Posted 10 October 2011 - 03:39 PM
#18
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 10 October 2011 - 04:12 PM
Change the color filter on your camera. If it's a digital camera, dig through the settings (and the user manual) until you find different filters. If you reply to this post or private message me with the make and model of your camera, I'll look up the user manual for you. They're usually all online.
I believe my current camera is a coolpix S230. I am still waiting for my underwater camera

#19
Guest_EricaWieser_*
Posted 10 October 2011 - 04:51 PM
Check out page 122 of of this: http://www.nikonusa....30ENnoprint.pdfI believe my current camera is a coolpix S230.
Pages 55 and 76 may also be useful.
#20
Guest_NVCichlids_*
Posted 11 October 2011 - 09:57 AM
They were all RUSTY Crays from what I could tell due to the spot on each side of the carapace. The ones photographed had the odd colouration, but it doesn't show in the pictures (thanks erica, I am working with the settings for next time!)
Rusty with dark blue legs/claws


Rusty with neon green legs (ok, neon to me is a brighter green, not the drab olive colors that shows up on most of them)


The location where I was (upstream and down)


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