Tank Seal Question

Hey all!!

So I've bought a used 90 gal tank and stand for $150. No major scratches and one small corner chip not a bad deal besides the insane salt build on the back of the tank and stand!!! I've sanded and re-stained the stand, now I'm looking at the seals which did hold water in my basement for a week but somehow I don't trust the insides. Looks like they torn up the side seals while trying to clean inside the tank front. There's still sealant in the corner but the tapered edges are destroyed. Theres no fix besides re-sealing the whole tank is there??? I live on second floor so I'm not going to take a chance, just want someone to confirm my doubts.

p.s. sorry if i posted this in the wrong area.

Hey all!!

So I've bought a used 90 gal tank and stand for $150. No major scratches and one small corner chip not a bad deal besides the insane salt build on the back of the tank and stand!!! I've sanded and re-stained the stand, now I'm looking at the seals which did hold water in my basement for a week but somehow I don't trust the insides. Looks like they torn up the side seals while trying to clean inside the tank front. There's still sealant in the corner but the tapered edges are destroyed. Theres no fix besides re-sealing the whole tank is there??? I live on second floor so I'm not going to take a chance, just want someone to confirm my doubts.

p.s. sorry if i posted this in the wrong area.

Generally, if the seams themselves are intact and hold water, then I feel safe cutting away the fillets (="side seals") and redoing them.

i agree with irate on re-sealing. but another thing to keep in mind especially with big old tanks is that its stand is not only level but EVENLY SUPPORTED too. Put a few inches of water in, then push/pull up & down on each corner one at a time to see if its has any rocking free-play. If so, shim up the stand as needed, or else it will create a twisting strain when full that could pop a seam over time. avoiding twist strain is MORE important than being level !

Generally, if the seams themselves are intact and hold water, then I feel safe cutting away the fillets (="side seals") and redoing them.

another thing to keep in mind especially with big old tanks is that its stand is not only level but EVENLY SUPPORTED too. Put a few inches of water in, then push/pull up & down on each corner one at a time to see if its has any rocking free-play. If so, shim up the stand as needed, or else it will create a twisting strain when full that could pop a seam over time. avoiding twist strain is MORE important than being level !

You can also crack the glass this way. I've seen it happen! The tank should have even support at all 4 corners, and that is all that is really necessary unless the tank is longer than about 4 feet.

Thanks all,

I'm still in the middle of stripping the whole tank. I figured its something I haven't done before so I'm for the job. It's a sure b**ch cutting out the silicone without scratching the opposing corner though! The stand is pretty solid still, but thanks for the reminder of leveling the tank/stand before steup, its probably the most important factors. I'll post some pictures soon.

You can also crack the glass this way. I've seen it happen! The tank should have even support at all 4 corners, and that is all that is really necessary unless the tank is longer than about 4 feet.

You can help give the tank even support by putting styrofoam under it. I've used the kind that you insulate houses with; it's about oh, maybe 3/4 of an inch think. It will help protect the tank if there are any irregularities in either the tank or stand. If there is a high spot in the stand, the weight of the tank on the foam will cause it to even out. The foam can be painted to match the stand. It's pretty cheap stuff, too.

i do that too, but i wrap black duct tape over the edges of the styrofoam instead of painting it. it cant peel loose cuz its pinched between the tank above and the stand below as long as you center the tape carefully.

You can help give the tank even support by putting styrofoam under it. I've used the kind that you insulate houses with; it's about oh, maybe 3/4 of an inch think. It will help protect the tank if there are any irregularities in either the tank or stand. If there is a high spot in the stand, the weight of the tank on the foam will cause it to even out. The foam can be painted to match the stand. It's pretty cheap stuff, too.

Hey all!!

So I've bought a used 90 gal tank and stand for $150. No major scratches and one small corner chip not a bad deal besides the insane salt build on the back of the tank and stand!!! I've sanded and re-stained the stand, now I'm looking at the seals which did hold water in my basement for a week but somehow I don't trust the insides. Looks like they torn up the side seals while trying to clean inside the tank front. There's still sealant in the corner but the tapered edges are destroyed. Theres no fix besides re-sealing the whole tank is there??? I live on second floor so I'm not going to take a chance, just want someone to confirm my doubts.

p.s. sorry if i posted this in the wrong area.

Be careful to buy 100% Silicone and read carefully some are not rated for aquarium use. I used to buy tanks that needed resealed all the time and nevr had any trouble. Just make sure you get the glass very clean,dry and use good sealant. The brand name Dap used to be aquarium safe and pretty in expensive at the hardware store. Goodluck!

This info I posted on another topic here on NANFA. "I found a topic on another forum about tank sealant. This guy had e-mailed all-glass aquariums and asked who made their sealant and their response was GE Plastics". GE #1 silicone ( pure silicone with no additives for mildew resistance ) I think is the best stuff out there for aquarium use. I have read this in other locations and books as well.