Jump to content


Photo

Water and Electricity...


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 mattknepley

mattknepley
  • NANFA Member
  • Smack-dab between the Savannah and the Saluda.

Posted 16 July 2013 - 08:38 PM

I know you know this, but it's one of those things that need to be said when it's timely, and it was recently timely for me...

Be careful with the electrical components involved in your set ups. Make sure you're rigged as safely as can be. I was reminded how important this is yesterday. I came home to the smell of "hot". If you've smelled "hot" you know what I mean. If not, it's a melty, plasti-chemically, burning smell that does not bode anything good. Ever. Found the cause to be the wiring on one of my 55's lighting fixtures. The plastic coating had begun melting away, and copper wire was exposed in a couple tiny places. Where exposed, the tiny individual strands of copper appeared to be severed and were sparking on occasion. :ohmy: There was no evidence of feline sabotage (my 7 year old's cat used to like to chew cords but hasn't in a long time) so I have come to the conclusion that user error is to blame. I suspect I was a little to cavalier in my placement of a bubble wand used to add a little extra water flow and tank circulation. Water from popping bubbles/turbulence had easy access to the wiring and the light fixture. Most certainly stupid on my part. I know better. And I still set up a circumstance where water and electricity were going to meet eventually...

So check your drip loops, connections, component integrity, habitat designs, so on and so forth; so as not to kill your self.

Sorry to be a buzz kill...
Matt Knepley
"No thanks, a third of a gopher would merely arouse my appetite..."

#2 Guest_walklong_*

Guest_walklong_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 July 2013 - 04:57 PM

Melting insulation is 'usually' the result of excessive external temp: bulb wattage in excess of design/UL rating, fixture vents blocked or restricted. Sometimes it's internal temp: the conductors heat due to long extension cord runs of small gauge wire.

Frayed conductors are a mechanical damage - cats, mice or other rodents can be suspect. Wire movement against unprotected metal or sharp edges. The wire can move enough simply with the normal cycling of the load: lights on and off.

Regular inspection and making sure there's enough air flow for proper cooling, use good quality extension cords.

30+ years of electrical work - you can't be too safe.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

#3 Guest_schambers_*

Guest_schambers_*
  • Guests

Posted 17 July 2013 - 10:23 PM

I have a GFCI on every circuit that has an aquarium on it. You can get them wired in or plug in. I set one off every now and then, so I can safely say that they were good investments.

#4 mattknepley

mattknepley
  • NANFA Member
  • Smack-dab between the Savannah and the Saluda.

Posted 18 July 2013 - 06:25 AM

I have a GFCI on every circuit that has an aquarium on it. You can get them wired in or plug in. I set one off every now and then, so I can safely say that they were good investments.


Definitely a good idea. My house is an older (pre WW II) era mill house common in these parts. It has had a bit of remodeling done to it, and the remodeled parts have gfci's, but the older parts do not. Guess where the aquarium is...
Matt Knepley
"No thanks, a third of a gopher would merely arouse my appetite..."

#5 mattknepley

mattknepley
  • NANFA Member
  • Smack-dab between the Savannah and the Saluda.

Posted 18 July 2013 - 06:33 AM

Melting insulation is 'usually' the result of excessive external temp: bulb wattage in excess of design/UL rating, fixture vents blocked or restricted. Sometimes it's internal temp: the conductors heat due to long extension cord runs of small gauge wire.

Frayed conductors are a mechanical damage - cats, mice or other rodents can be suspect. Wire movement against unprotected metal or sharp edges. The wire can move enough simply with the normal cycling of the load: lights on and off.

Regular inspection and making sure there's enough air flow for proper cooling, use good quality extension cords.

30+ years of electrical work - you can't be too safe.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks, Walklong. That gives me a couple things to check out on the other fixture. I originally suspected the cat, because she was heck on cords and airline tubing. Didn't see any of her trademark evidence, though. I'm thinking I especially need to double check to see if there is any rubbing or bending of the wires where they hang over the side of the tank.

The only other incident I ever had with electricity and aquariums was with a heater that developed an undetected crack. I eventually detected the crack when I put my finger in the tank one morning and found myself on my butt. :blink: Fortunately not much of an issue with natives!
Matt Knepley
"No thanks, a third of a gopher would merely arouse my appetite..."

#6 Guest_walklong_*

Guest_walklong_*
  • Guests

Posted 18 July 2013 - 05:17 PM

Ouch! There are SO many variables in play: is the fixture wired with low grade (read low melt point insulation); did an assembler have a bad day and leave out a strain relief; did some piece of protection fall out during rough shipping or handling? The safe bet is to have all equipment connected through an arc-fault protected circuit (AFCI - one major step above ground fault). These are available as hard-wired wall devices (but not, to my knowledge as portable extension cord add-ons, as the GFCIs are). Arc'ing is sometimes to ground (that 50,000 kilo volt static charge you pick up from carpet in winter discharges to ground) but more often is not: a frayed, two wire cord arc's as the potential between the hot conductor and NEUTRAL (not ground) exceeds resistance of the air space between them. THAT arc won't trip a GFCI but will start a fire.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

#7 Guest_walklong_*

Guest_walklong_*
  • Guests

Posted 18 July 2013 - 05:25 PM

Oops - got ahead of myself ; point being we probably can't and shouldn't try to address every potential issue with all the different stuff, put quality protection between the house circuit and all the equipment and we're safe, our families and our homes are safe - and so are our critters.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users