Hello everyone! I'll be setting up a 29 gallon aquarium this weekend in my dorm room and I was hoping to hear any suggestions/advice/ideas you guys always seem to come up with to make it fantastic! The plan is to set it up with as many Iowa native species as possible - snails, plants, fishes, fingernail clams, other miscellaneous inverts, I'm even hoping to try out an eastern spotted newt (from the pet store of course). I'd like to make it as beautiful and diverse a little world as possible!
I'll be bringing with me a trio of small (1.8" ish) Orangespotted sunfish to start it off, as well as a few plants from my old 10 gallon to kickstart the system. However, before I add the sunfish, I'd like to add a bunch of small invertebrates, including scuds, daphnids, water beetles, pretty much anything I can find in nearby waters to provide a good base forage system (I'll be feeding my fishes of course, but I think it would provide future darters with something to entertain themselves with). The substrate will ideally be an inch or two of kitty litter topped with various "äreas" similar to the Ultimate Aquarium I remember reading of. They will include larger river rocks and overhangs, a sandy spot, a riffle at the power filter outflow, smaller gravel (in a patch near center front, to encourage sunfish nesting), and exposed kitty litter in areas where dense cover plants like hairgrass will grow. I also have several really cool pieces of driftwood and rock caves that I might incorporate somehow.
The stocking list will ultimately depend on what I can find around here but here's my wishlist for critters and plants (they won't all fit anyways even if I chance upon them all): Orangespotted sunfish (have already), Iowa or Rainbow Darters (whichever I find first), Banded darters, Southern Redbelly Dace, Red Shiners, small Tadpole Madtom, Fathead Minnows, Brook Silversides (but I hear they're hard to transfer alive), Rosyface Shiners, Fantail Darters, Northern Hogsucker, Blacknose Dace, Suckermouth Minnow, water scorpion (I'll see if he prefers fish food to actual fishes first...), eastern spotted newt (entirely aquatic natives, and they're sold at the local fish store), crawling water beetle, fingernail clams, native snails of all sorts, scuds, daphnids, water sowbugs, blackworms, bunch of other invertebrates I'm forgetting at the moment, cardinal flower, elodea, coontail, guppygrass, various hairgrasses, water plantain, various arrowheads, various buttercups and crowfoots, bladderwort, mud plantain, blood stargrass, Ludwigia palustris (as opposed to x repens I have already), crystalworts, mosses (particularly fountain moss), water smartweeds, Bacopa rotundifolia, ivy duckweed, ammania, lysimachia, various echinodorus, mermaidweed, native milfoil, spiral ditchgrass. tldr; anything native that prospers. I haven't decided things yet like filtration and whatnot, I have the basics but I always find some interesting diy so it's subject to change. That's all I have to say, so... any suggestions?
College aquarium! Looking for tips and ideas
Started by
Guest_Orangespotted_*
, Aug 29 2013 09:17 PM
21 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_EricaLyons_*
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Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:33 PM
Be careful with bladderwort (utricularia gibba) in a planted tank. I have been unable to remove mine completely.
Also, that 'ivy duckweed' is pretty cool looking. If you find it and want to trade some of it for any of the native plants I keep, let me know. I've got myriophyllum pinnatum, ludwigia repens, ricciocarpus natans, utricularia gibba, ceratophyllum demersum, bacopa monnieri.
Also, that 'ivy duckweed' is pretty cool looking. If you find it and want to trade some of it for any of the native plants I keep, let me know. I've got myriophyllum pinnatum, ludwigia repens, ricciocarpus natans, utricularia gibba, ceratophyllum demersum, bacopa monnieri.
#3
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:33 PM
Sounds like a lot of fun. MY college aquarium was 5 gallons. I had an archerfish.
#4
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 30 August 2013 - 10:42 AM
I think that for filtration you should go with a DIY canister () with a corner HMF over the intake (http://www.swisstrop...et corner 2.JPG And here's where to buy the foam: http://www.swisstrop... Pricelist.html) And with all of those plants I'd go with T5 lighting (http://www.ebay.com/...=item46102f5a5d)
#5
Guest_EricaLyons_*
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Posted 30 August 2013 - 01:08 PM
T5 lighting is expensive. The replacement bulbs are $10 to $30 each. I find that 100 to 200 lumens of full spectrum (specifically blue and red rich) light can be achieved with Daylight Deluxe T8 bulbs for a replacement cost of $5 per bulb. The fixtures themselves are $10 to $20; T5HO fixtures are $60 and up.
Also, I personally dislike matten filters because they take up tank space. There are many other filter designs that free up all of the tank for the fish. If you insist on DIY, you can make a DIY fluidized bed filter.
youtube.com/watch?v=xutRnqYtPdw
Bioconlabs said, "While trickle filters may have relatively large amounts of surface area (up to 200 square feet per cubic foot of media), it is virtually impossible for bacteria to colonize all of it. This is because water will take the path of least resistance as it moves down through the media, often leaving dry areas and low flow, anaerobic pockets. Another serious problem with these filters is called "bio-fouling". This occurs as particles of organic material lodge within the filter bed. Once clogged, you have no choice but to tear the system down and clean it. This is not a pleasant job; but if left unattended, your water quality will rapidly degrade.
Fluidized bed filters, by design, do away with the trickle filter's shortcomings. The most obvious benefit is that all of the filter's large surface area is available for bacterial growth. With more than 6,200 square feet of surface area per cubic foot of media, you can quickly understand why fluidized bed filters don't need to be nearly as large as comparable trickle filters. Since the water is evenly distributed as it flows through the cylinder, there are also no anaerobic pockets of bacteria developing. The water that reaches the media is oxygen rich and very conducive to rapid bacterial growth. Also, these filters are almost impossible to clog due to the constant motion of the media. The filter bed is a mildly abrasive environment that is constantly cleaning and renewing itself as it moves quietly around inside the cylinder."
source: http://www.bioconlabs.com/abtqs.html
Also, I personally dislike matten filters because they take up tank space. There are many other filter designs that free up all of the tank for the fish. If you insist on DIY, you can make a DIY fluidized bed filter.
youtube.com/watch?v=xutRnqYtPdw
Bioconlabs said, "While trickle filters may have relatively large amounts of surface area (up to 200 square feet per cubic foot of media), it is virtually impossible for bacteria to colonize all of it. This is because water will take the path of least resistance as it moves down through the media, often leaving dry areas and low flow, anaerobic pockets. Another serious problem with these filters is called "bio-fouling". This occurs as particles of organic material lodge within the filter bed. Once clogged, you have no choice but to tear the system down and clean it. This is not a pleasant job; but if left unattended, your water quality will rapidly degrade.
Fluidized bed filters, by design, do away with the trickle filter's shortcomings. The most obvious benefit is that all of the filter's large surface area is available for bacterial growth. With more than 6,200 square feet of surface area per cubic foot of media, you can quickly understand why fluidized bed filters don't need to be nearly as large as comparable trickle filters. Since the water is evenly distributed as it flows through the cylinder, there are also no anaerobic pockets of bacteria developing. The water that reaches the media is oxygen rich and very conducive to rapid bacterial growth. Also, these filters are almost impossible to clog due to the constant motion of the media. The filter bed is a mildly abrasive environment that is constantly cleaning and renewing itself as it moves quietly around inside the cylinder."
source: http://www.bioconlabs.com/abtqs.html
#6
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 30 August 2013 - 06:01 PM
I personally much prefer T5s for their growth potential, efficiency, and light color. Also, fluidized bed filters are nice, but I've heard of a lot of people having trouble with them, especially DIY ones. Personally, I would much rather do a DIY canister, and it can also be put horizontally, which makes it very easy to hide in a stand and still have lots of room underneath.
#7
Guest_EricaLyons_*
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Posted 30 August 2013 - 06:08 PM
That's true, I have yet to find a 10,000 K T8. *sighs* I wish they made them. They're all 6500 K. You can't reeeeally tell the difference, except you can.I personally much prefer T5s for their growth potential, efficiency, and light color.
Myself, I use all waterfall filters. The plants are the ones that actually do the work (eat ammonium and nitrate), so the waterfalls are mostly just there for water movement. It's more fry-safe than a powerhead as long as you cover the intakes with mesh or nylon or something. And waterfalls are way quieter than a sponge filter. Air pumps are noisy.
#8
Guest_Skipjack_*
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Posted 30 August 2013 - 06:57 PM
Fluidized bed filters are the best most efficient filtration you can have. Until the power goes out for a few hours and the sand settles. Often the pump cannot re-suspend the sand. Then you have the pain in the butt of momentarily forcing more water through the system to get it moving again. Don't get me wrong, the biomass that they can support will amaze you, but coming home from a weekend vacation with no filtration because of compacted sand can suck. Have some sort of back up. Either additional filtration, or a Good UPS like this. http://www.vanner.co...erter-chargers/
#9
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 30 August 2013 - 07:11 PM
Maintenance with fluidized beds is a pain. Yeah, they are self cleaning, but you have to have a prefilter, which unless you have it in-tank, like an HMF, you'd have to shut off the pump to clean, which means no more fluidizing. A much safer form of fluidized bed is using plastic media like K1 Kaldnes, but it requires a larger container. Also, fluidized beds have a tendency to pull a lot of oxygen from the water, which can be a problem for darters, especially when it's warm.
#10
Guest_Orangespotted_*
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Posted 02 September 2013 - 05:09 PM
Thank you for all of your suggestions! I'm getting the tank today, it's all very exciting! 
Erica - If I find ivy duckweed, I'd love to trade! I have an acquaintance who tallies plant species dynamics in Iowa waters so hopefully I can ask him where a good place to go for some is. However, I laughed a little bit at your warning about bladderwort's unstoppable growth, followed by a request for duckweed!
I once had some bladderwort that did indeed stick around for a while, but then inexplicitly disappeared. I hope I can get some more of that too, it was cool stuff!
Irate - With college, I might be setting myself for more work than I can handle, but it will definitely be fun for the time being!
Yeahson - Hmm, interesting. Doesn't look too difficult either, I might have to try building one myself! I'll need to see if it would fit first, though.
Fluidized filters and lighting - I already have some fluorescents (they might very well be T5s, the light color looks about right) that I got for free with the hood, I'll test them out on some largeleaf pondweed to see if they'll work before I add in other plants/decide to change them. It tends to change its leaf color with the intensity of lighting; it is pinkish brown with very high light, rich green in adequate light, and pale yellow-green in poor light. Good indicator of lighting quality for native species. As for fluidized filters, I have seen them in the past and loved how well they work... and then set aside the thought for later in life when it wouldn't be as big of a problem if something were to happen to them. I don't want a mini fishpocalypse occurring at any time, but in the confines of my dorm room it would be far more severe.
I'm still debating several details, things like what the background should be (shadow box? moss wall? hmm...), whether a powerhead will be necessary or not, etc, so if anyone has ideas yet I'd love to hear them! Thanks again all for your responses!
Erica - If I find ivy duckweed, I'd love to trade! I have an acquaintance who tallies plant species dynamics in Iowa waters so hopefully I can ask him where a good place to go for some is. However, I laughed a little bit at your warning about bladderwort's unstoppable growth, followed by a request for duckweed!
I once had some bladderwort that did indeed stick around for a while, but then inexplicitly disappeared. I hope I can get some more of that too, it was cool stuff!Irate - With college, I might be setting myself for more work than I can handle, but it will definitely be fun for the time being!
Yeahson - Hmm, interesting. Doesn't look too difficult either, I might have to try building one myself! I'll need to see if it would fit first, though.
Fluidized filters and lighting - I already have some fluorescents (they might very well be T5s, the light color looks about right) that I got for free with the hood, I'll test them out on some largeleaf pondweed to see if they'll work before I add in other plants/decide to change them. It tends to change its leaf color with the intensity of lighting; it is pinkish brown with very high light, rich green in adequate light, and pale yellow-green in poor light. Good indicator of lighting quality for native species. As for fluidized filters, I have seen them in the past and loved how well they work... and then set aside the thought for later in life when it wouldn't be as big of a problem if something were to happen to them. I don't want a mini fishpocalypse occurring at any time, but in the confines of my dorm room it would be far more severe.
I'm still debating several details, things like what the background should be (shadow box? moss wall? hmm...), whether a powerhead will be necessary or not, etc, so if anyone has ideas yet I'd love to hear them! Thanks again all for your responses!
#11
Guest_Ken_*
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Posted 02 September 2013 - 05:33 PM
OS, I sent you a message.... I see you're over by Des moines but I know where you can get alot of what you are looking for here in Eastern iowa by Cedar Rapids....
#12
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 02 September 2013 - 07:14 PM
It's not terribly hard to build a 3D background out of styrofoam and some drylok, and it looks great! PM me if you want some more details!
#13
Guest_EricaLyons_*
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Posted 02 September 2013 - 07:33 PM
I agree, and it's fun to build your own background. Darters will sit on a ledge halfway up the background and turn and look at you, like, "feed me. Drop the worms in right here." lolIt's not terribly hard to build a 3D background out of styrofoam and some drylok, and it looks great!
I've also made them out of gravel, Great Stuff foam, and a sheet of styrofoam. It was $4 for a can of Great Stuff, $4 for 50 pounds of gravel from the home improvement store, and $8 for enough styrofoam for 4 backgrounds. You can build in caves for the fish for their enrichment. It's neat
Moss walls are also cool. Or a combo rock/moss wall. Can you imaging some of the dripping species of moss hanging down off a ledge like this?
The north american native fissidens fontanus would probably work great for that.
#14
Guest_Orangespotted_*
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 04:36 PM
I have encountered an issue - the floor is not perfectly level where the fish tank would optimally fit. The stand and tank itself appear fine. Is there a reliable solution to this or am I better off trying to make room somewhere else?
#15
Guest_EricaLyons_*
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 04:44 PM
A thick styrofoam sheet shaved to level the tank would work when placed in between the tank and the stand. You can use something as common as a steak knife to cut the styrofoam (college dorm construction approvedI have encountered an issue - the floor is not perfectly level where the fish tank would optimally fit. The stand and tank itself appear fine. Is there a reliable solution to this or am I better off trying to make room somewhere else?
)
#16
Guest_Orangespotted_*
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 04:59 PM
Eh, headspace is limited already due to a loft above. I don't think knives 3" + are dorm-legal anyways... How much slant is too much?
#17
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 06:21 PM
Well, between furniture shims and styrofoam (You could maybe get it cut at the store for you) You should be fine.
#18
Michael Wolfe
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 06:39 PM
Yeahson is right... you can shim between the floor and the feet of your stand with no problems. As long as the stand is sturdy and the shims are solid, then you are creating a level surface for the tank that is OK. The talk about not shimming was that you cannot shim between the tank and the stand as this would create gaps under the tank itself.
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#19
Guest_Orangespotted_*
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 10:21 PM
With a few shims, all appears to be in order again. Will get around to test-filling by Thursday, seems to be a busy day tomorrow. I might be incorporating a Styrofoam background as Yeahson suggested, along with areas "carpeted" with moss. Does anyone think a small Peace lily could float in the standard hang-on-the-back filter without issue? It would get plenty of light. I just don't want a nutrient spike to cover the aquatic plants with a layer of algae before they get used to the system.
#20
Guest_EricaLyons_*
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Posted 03 September 2013 - 11:12 PM
No? Lilies are massive. And terrestrial plants prefer nitrate to ammonia, so they don't really help the ammonia spike. http://www.theaquari...ical_FiltrationDoes anyone think a small Peace lily could float in the standard hang-on-the-back filter without issue?
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