Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

Tank Lids

Started by Guest_Abrams96_* , May 30 2014 03:31 PM

Next

Please log in to reply

23 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Abrams96_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 03:31 PM

I am just curious as to what everyone uses for lids/hoods/canopies on their tanks. I currently have 2 planted tanks running. A 65 with glass lids which is doing very well, and a 55 with the basic black plastic hoods where I cut out the lexan windows where the factory bulb would be. This tank I am struggling with keeping plants alive. Both tanks are set up the same way and both are running t5s. I'm wondering if maybe the hood is restricting the light from getting across the surface of the water. I would prefer to just go without a lid on the 55 but there are some jumpers in there that won't allow me to do so. Is it worth me buying some glass lids for it? This seems to be the only differing factor between the 2 tanks. Thanks

Back to top

#2 Guest_Subrosa_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 06:07 PM

I use fluorescent light grid cut to size as lids on high light tanks with jumpers in them.

Back to top

#3 Guest_Abrams96_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 06:24 PM

Like the ceiling tile checkerboard kind of stuff?

Back to top

#4 Guest_Subrosa_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 07:14 PM

Yup

Back to top

#5 Guest_Ken_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 07:18 PM

I also use the "egg crate" for fluorescent lights. Works real good.

Back to top

#6 Guest_FishofSchool_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 09:25 PM

me too, atop 80-gallon custom fiberglass tanks in our lab. cut egg crate in sections so only one smaller piece has to be moved to feed fish, dip net, etc.

Back to top

#7 Guest_steve_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 10:58 PM

For my 4 planted tanks, I've built stands from 1"X2"s that sit on top of the tanks and are about 8"-9" tall that my T8's set on. For my tank with dace(jumpers), I've stapled black plastic screen to the stand on all 4 sides and left flaps for access holes to feed and prune plants. The height of the stand also allows the plants to grow further out of the water where they can use carbon dioxide from the air more freely than from the water and increase growth.

Back to top

#8 Guest_Abrams96_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 11:09 PM

That's a good idea Steve. I haven't thought of raising lid to allow for floating plants to grow. I have played with the idea of using screen except I was worried about how much light is lost from going through the screen.

Back to top

#9 Guest_Abrams96_*

Guests

Posted 30 May 2014 - 11:20 PM

Oh you leave the top open and screen the sides. The added height prevents the fish from leaping over. I think I'm going to give that a try. Maybe even hinge the front section instead of leaving flaps to allow for easier tank maintenance. I'll draw something up.

Back to top

#10 Guest_steve_*

Guests

Posted 31 May 2014 - 12:21 AM

Maybe even hinge the front section instead of leaving flaps to allow for easier tank maintenance. I'll draw something up.

That's a great idea. The flaps are probably the weakest point of my design. I've never lost a fish from the flaps but I really don't like them. I did lose a northern hogsucker that jumped through a small opening between the screen and a filter that I was using just for circulation. Other than that, no real problems. My 55 gallon tanks have 2 double T8 fixtures each(4 bulbs total) and my 75 gallon has 2 double T8's and a single T8(5 bulbs total). The 75 gallon is the one with the screen and the stand is 9" tall. Some of the plants like to cling to and climb the screen. I've currently got some plants in that one that are growing several inches above the T8's even. I really need to take time to prune.

Back to top

#11 Guest_Abrams96_*

Guests

Posted 31 May 2014 - 06:25 AM

What do you stock in your 75? I keep horny horny head chubs, black nose dace, northern red belly dace and Johnny darters in my 55 currently. I think the chubs might be a big part of the poor plant life in it. They seem to enjoy munching on and rooting up everything once in awhile.

Back to top

#12 Michael Wolfe

Board of Directors

North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage

Posted 31 May 2014 - 08:10 AM

http://forum.nanfa.o...ank +top +fence

Take a look at how Susan solved this problem a few years ago. She called it a Fish Fence (keeping your fish in the tank like you keep your dog in the backyard... with a fence). I like this idea very much because it is much like many "tank toppers" that you see on wooden stands. And because with some wood working skills you can make these look as nice as you want.

Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin

Back to top

#13 Guest_killier_*

Guests

Posted 31 May 2014 - 11:09 AM

I use 2 piece sectionals of lexan for all of my tanks. There is a manufacturing site for it nearby and they throw out hundreds of square feet a week. As far as lights go, I use the marineland double row LED lights for pretty much everything over 10 gallons and thus the biggest thing in my book for glass/lexan/plexiglass is cutting back on evaporation. Though I do hear the thunk of rosyside dace every once in a while.

Back to top

#14 Guest_Skipjack_*

Guests

Posted 01 June 2014 - 11:42 AM

I have done the fence thing. I did it with some left over Pergo flooring. It looked nice(prefinished), and was quick and easy.

Back to top

#15 Guest_steve_*

Guests

Posted 01 June 2014 - 01:57 PM

The well done fences are definitely more professional looking than my stands made of 1"X2" lumber. I remember looking through that thread before I built something. I eventually decided to go with open sides and screen so I could get a better view of the top of the water and the emergent plants and also hope that the open air design would help minimize heat transfer from the lights to the water.

Abrams96; My 75 houses several kinds of darters and dace along with a male orange spotted sunfish and an accidental introduction of a creek chub #-o

that I can't catch without tearing up everything in the tank.

Back to top

#16 Guest_Abrams96_*

Guests

Posted 02 June 2014 - 07:32 PM

I think I'm going to go with the screen fence idea as well. I would like to paint the frame work but am worried of contaminating the water if any were to splash up onto it. Is there a certain kind of paint I should be using to prevent this?

Back to top

#17 Guest_Skipjack_*

Guests

Posted 02 June 2014 - 08:00 PM

Build it to size, paint it, then put it on the tank after the paint has cured.

Back to top

#18 Michael Wolfe

Board of Directors

North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage

Posted 03 June 2014 - 07:46 AM

Any water based epoxy that fully cures will pretty much be water resistant. Look for stuff that is used for pairing kids furniture. They are designed to be durable and washable and will serve you well.

Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin