7 replies to this topic

[centrarchid]

I will be setting up a pair or hospital tanks that will also double as quarantine systems.  Any suggestions?

[thedood]

I would go as small as possible without stressing the fish. Going small will minimize med costs. I have been using a 20 and will be going to a ten. Bare bottom also as it will be easier to keep clean. Also with bare bottom if you use a copper based med there is less material to absorb the copper. I had an issue keeping cupramine at therapeutic levels with substrate. I also use plastic plants as a place to hide and they can easily be sterilized with bleach. No carbon, I personally use sponge filters on my qt tanks. For fish that require minimum flow I use air and for those that need current I use a powerhead. I usually prep my qt 48 hours in advance if possible and I use tetra safestart to prime the bio filter. If you need to setup in a hurry then simply prime with safestart and monitor ammonia and nitrite levels. If you plan to keep the qt up and running simply supply a constant ammonia source like fish food.

[Betta132]

Bare bottom, plastic plants and maybe flowerpots for hiding spots, but not many- don't want to displace too much water volume. Pre-cycle sponge filters in a tank full of healthy, messy fish, then either keep the sponges in the tank with the messy fish or maintain the cycle by dropping food into the tanks to produce ammonia. 

[WheelsOC]

I'm setting up a quarantine/hospital tank right now, a salvaged 10 gallon tank that's been tested for leaks after cleaning with baking soda paste and white vinegar

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I've got it bare-bottom with a DIY air-driven sponge filter, a heater, thermometer, and some 3" PVC pipe for hiding space. I've painted the bottom and back glass a flat black color, for aesthetics (and to better gauge the fishes' color) as well as reducing stress for the occupants.

 

I plan to cycle it with SafeStart and some ammonia or flake food.

 

 

Beyond the physical setup of the tank, what are the best practices for quarantining new fish? Conventional wisdom says to keep it dim, add a bit of salt, and raise the temperature gradually to help kill off parasites. What about proactive antibiotics? Anything to avoid using (because it'll kill the filter bacteria, etc.)?

[littlen]

centrarchid, what size system are you thinking of?  Multiple tanks on one system? What were you thinking in terms of filtration?  I have lots of ideas but need to know what direction you're leaning.

WheelsOC--I am not a huge fan of prophylactic treatments.  If you have good husbandry practices and collect healthy specimens (fall or spring for natives) then you should be able to stay ahead of having any issues.  I've only ever encountered ich when collecting during those seasons.  (Which I was able to easily treat with formalin).  Some antibiotics can certainly wipe our your beneficial bacteria--and in a small system this could also kill all your fish.  
Temperature increase isn't really necessary and might actually promote the spread of infectious agents if we're dealing with natives.  I personally do a 30 day observational QX on new natives at my house.  60 days ideal.  The thought is that these new fish most likely have a small, but tolerable amount of parasites in/on them.  So the theory being that if they adjust to captivity,....temps in my house, lighting schedules, human/dog traffic, water change schedule, feeding schedule and foods offered........and do not get sick and die then they will do fine in the main tank.  If they stress and break with something, then I treat them.  Quite frankly I do the same with tropicals with only a slight modification. 

[WheelsOC]

Wild-caught specimens are probably in pretty good condition, true.

What about fish bought from a store, a bait shop, or rescued from the feeder tank?

[littlen]

There is generally a much higher chance that they are 'dirty' and infected with some sort of pathogen.  Being stressed and forced to live in tight quarters with a lot of other fish generally leads to the spread of infection. Fungal infections and ich are quite common.  However, that's why it is up to you to pick out the healthiest fish---good colors, no missing scales and undamaged fins, positive reaction to stimuli (put your hand over the tank and see if they quickly swim to the surface to get food.  Those that don't express any interest in feeding might have something going on).  

Regardless, get them home to your hospital tank, and let them rest & relax in a much less stressful environment.  A little salt is certainly a good idea. I still only do the observational QX even if fish come from a LFS, bait shop, or feeder tank. 

[gerald]

Great advice and ideas here everybody.  One exception to the rule of not treating with meds unless you see recognizable disease symptoms might be bowfin, especially small ones.  I've never kept them myself but have heard many reports (including many on this forum) of them dying after a few weeks in captivity, allegedly due to intestinal worms that they tolerate OK in the wild, but become lethal in captive conditions.  

 

Also I'd like to second WheelsOC's idea of painting the bottom a dark, flat color if you're keeping the glass bottom bare.  Glare from below is stressful to many kinds of fish (top-dwellers dont seem to mind it) and using dark paper or cloth under the tank does not reduce the glare as well as painting the glass does.