I think the basics you have listed are the main things. Gerald Pottern wrote a more extensive list that I usually follow :
COLLECTING AND ACCLIMATING NATIVE FISHES
Gerald Pottern -- Raleigh Aquarium Society, NANFA, NFC
Many native fishes are hardy in aquariums once they're settled in, but are easily stressed during collecting, transporting, and acclimating to aquarium life. Stressed fish may look okay when you get them home, but then sicken and die a few days later. Here are some tips on minimizing collecting stress and easing the transition from stream to aquarium.
In The Field
• Fill bucket or cooler only about 1/3 full; frightened fish will jump
• Add kosher salt to collecting bucket: 1 Tablespoon per 2 gallons, or a “bait saver” mix.
• Don't use sea salt for freshwater collecting. It will raise pH, esp in soft acid water.
• Each seine or dipnet haul should last only 5 to 20 seconds. Longer haul times will stress the fish in the net, and also allow time for the fast ones to escape. Short hauls are both more productive and less stressful.
• Transfer fish as quickly as possible from net to bucket or cooler. Transfer using a small aquarium net, or scoop hands gently under and around them. Very small fish can be picked up on a bit of aquatic plant or leaf. NEVER hold any part of a fish between your fingers; the friction damage will cause a skin infection.
• Small fish can overheat in your hand in seconds; have bucket handy BEFORE you pick them up, and DONT study them in your hand. Use a net IN WATER or plastic bag if you have to examine them up close in the field.
• Plants or water-logged leaves in the bucket will help reduce stress; do NOT put rocks in the bucket.
• Keep invertebrates & amphibians separate from fish, without salt.
• Shrimp and crayfish should have plants, leaves, or twigs to grasp, so they don’t grab onto each other
• Keep container in shade whenever possible. A dark bucket in sun heats up quickly.
• Don't collect in very hot weather; fish are already enduring all the stress they can handle.
• Get new water (and add salt again) for the trip home, and don't overcrowd them.
• Styrofoam boxes are best for travel, as fishes snout and mouth can be damaged in rigid containers.
• The more water the better, for thermal and chemical stability during transport.
• But make sure there's plenty of air space too if container is closed, or use a battery aerator.
• Beware of hot spots on the floor or trunk of your car/truck (above the exhaust pipe).
• If traveling with fish more than one day, bring a pre-cycled filter, air pump, and tap water conditioner.
• Better to get a few fish home healthy than a lot of stressed fish that won't live.
At Home
• If fish are in darkness during transport, they should be exposed to light without any disturbance. Darters especially will go into shock and die if exposed to sudden light and handling. Put closed box where it can be left undisturbed, open lid, and don’t look inside for 10 to 15 min while the fish adjust to light.
• In cold weather, let fish warm up SLOWLY to room temp. A box filter or sponge filter borrowed from a well-established, preferably crowded tank (lots of nitrifying bacteria) will reduce ammonia in the transport box.
• After room temp is reached, transfer fish to permanent aquarium. Discard old stream water.
• For “nervous” fish like pinewoods shiner and darters, put a towel or cardboard around tank for a day or two. This helps them get used to glass walls, and reduces fright whenever someone walks by.
• Feed promptly with live or frozen foods; a good meal reduces stress and replaces lost body salts.
• Watch carefully for signs of disease: scratching, twitching, cloudy eyes, eroding fins -- treat only if needed.
• The most common diseases likely to affect newly-caught freshwater fish are Ichthyopthirius (ick), gill flukes, and Flavobacterium (aka Flexibacter, Columnaris, mouth fungus, tail rot).
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