I am having troble keeping the cyanobacteria out of one of my tanks, any tips for removing / eradicatiing it will be greatly appreciated.
Tom
Cyanobacteria Removal
Started by
Guest_tglassburner_*
, Oct 21 2007 03:37 AM
7 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_uniseine_*
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Posted 21 October 2007 - 09:06 AM
I have not tried these remedies.
1) try antibiotics
or better
2) black out the light from the tank for 5 days. Plants and fish should be okay.
1) try antibiotics
or better
2) black out the light from the tank for 5 days. Plants and fish should be okay.
#3
Guest_AndrewAcropora_*
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Posted 21 October 2007 - 11:25 AM
Start topping off and doing your regular 10-20% water changes with RO/DI water. See if that helps.. Phosphate and Iron from city water supplies can tend to start off cyano blooms. If that's not the case, I'd do more water changes, run more carbon, less light, and lessen your feedings.
Then there's always the quick fix,..but it'll come back that way. Seach the forums for peroxide treatments....just make sure you do a large water change it does its job.
Then there's always the quick fix,..but it'll come back that way. Seach the forums for peroxide treatments....just make sure you do a large water change it does its job.
#4
Guest_hmt321_*
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Posted 21 October 2007 - 04:50 PM
get some floating plants, floating plants or emergent plants usually grow faster because the can access carbon out of the atmosphere
java fern is easy to grow and could help to out compete the bacteria for nutrients
olive nerites (snails) will eat that stuff, and can't successfully reproduce in most FW tanks
black outs do work
I tried hydrogen peroxide, it did put a dent in the algae but it also melted some of my plants
java fern is easy to grow and could help to out compete the bacteria for nutrients
olive nerites (snails) will eat that stuff, and can't successfully reproduce in most FW tanks
black outs do work
I tried hydrogen peroxide, it did put a dent in the algae but it also melted some of my plants
#5
Guest_uniseine_*
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Posted 21 October 2007 - 06:20 PM
get some floating plants, floating plants or emergent plants usually grow faster because the can access carbon out of the atmosphere
java fern is easy to grow and could help to out compete the bacteria for nutrients
olive nerites (snails) will eat that stuff, and can't successfully reproduce in most FW tanks
black outs do work
I tried hydrogen peroxide, it did put a dent in the algae but it also melted some of my plants
FarmerTodd convinced me to try H2O2 on hair algae. I knocked the hair algae back 95%: I added 1 oz. of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons; 32 ounces in a 300 gallon pond. It took two days for me to see the results. FarmerTodd says follow-up with a water change. Vascular plant should be okay - hornwort may be harmed.
#6
Guest_farmertodd_*
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 04:12 PM
Hornwort will bleach out a little bit, but bounces right back. Anacharis bleaches out a little too, but again, comes right back.
By using the peroxide, you get the nutrients that the colony is feeding off of liberated back into the wate column so you can water change it out.
Dark out works, but it takes longer, and will not have the same effect, you're only weakening the culture. In other words, you might be doing it again in another two weeks regardless of how much water you changed out, since there were some still living.
Todd
By using the peroxide, you get the nutrients that the colony is feeding off of liberated back into the wate column so you can water change it out.
Dark out works, but it takes longer, and will not have the same effect, you're only weakening the culture. In other words, you might be doing it again in another two weeks regardless of how much water you changed out, since there were some still living.
Todd
#7
Guest_seanmc_*
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 07:43 PM
I had a nasty case of this in our new 90G (mostly due, I think, to overfeeding and too much light). It came on quickly (within a day or two) and was ugly as heck. I manually cleaned up as much as I could, then did two 50% water changes back to back (siphoning as much more as I could get), then blacked out the tank (and no feeding) for 3 days (went away for a long weekend). When we came back, there was none left at all. Now we've reduced the lighting period, and are more careful feeding, and it has been several weeks with no sign of re-occurrence.
Cheers - Sean
Cheers - Sean
#8
Guest_Seedy_*
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Posted 13 November 2007 - 05:05 PM
Erythromyacin will kill cyanobacteria without killing your Nitrosomas (beneficial) bacteria in your filter.
This is a risky road (it's possible to develop a erythromyacin resistant aquarium strain of Cyanobacteria) and if you find yourself treating more than every once in a while you should consider alternate methods:
1)UV sterilizers. This will keep it from coming back.
2)Improper lighting (ie. wrong spectrum bulbs, too much or too little light, old bulbs)
3)I have found that CO2 injection and lower pH (especially in high light tanks) will also help to control your cyanobacteria without resorting to chemical warfare...
This is a risky road (it's possible to develop a erythromyacin resistant aquarium strain of Cyanobacteria) and if you find yourself treating more than every once in a while you should consider alternate methods:
1)UV sterilizers. This will keep it from coming back.
2)Improper lighting (ie. wrong spectrum bulbs, too much or too little light, old bulbs)
3)I have found that CO2 injection and lower pH (especially in high light tanks) will also help to control your cyanobacteria without resorting to chemical warfare...
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