The Mrs. and I are planning on putting a fish-room addition on this spring. It's going to be 14'x16' with a slab floor. I'm going to put radiant hot water heating in the floor so it's out of the way. It's not near any water supply or drain so I'll still have to use the python to the bathroom but I wont have to worry about weight on my 1893 farm house floor. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas or advise. I have had a small fish-room for about 9 years so I'm looking forward to have a lot more room. Especially now that my wife has decided to get back into guppies. I figure this will be a real learning experience. I will try to keep this thread updated with my progress. Look forward to hear everyone ideas.
Herschel
Fish-room ideas?
Started by
Guest_troutperch beeman_*
, Mar 22 2008 03:17 PM
19 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_mikez_*
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 04:16 PM
One thing I've always wanted is an elevated space to mix and store water for water changes.
With fresh and salt, as well as heated and unheated tanks, I need several different containers to store clean water.
Right now I use trash barrels up on unused tank stands and either siphon into buckets to be lifted and poured by hand, or I use a sump pump which has to be added and removed as needed and stored with associated hose when not in use.
One of the LFS I worked at had built a loft with three big vats, one for fresh, one for salt mix and one for RO water. A gravity feed filled each display tank and was controlled by spring loaded valves that had to be held open by hand so as to prevent someone from opening a valve and walking away and forgetting.
Consequently water changes were a snap which made the chore much more painless and insured it was less likely to be skipped.
I would also insist on a big shop sink with a big counter. A drain would be a must, even if a pump was required to get the water to the house drain.
After that, comfy chairs, maybe a couch and quality sound system would be nice. Dream on!
With fresh and salt, as well as heated and unheated tanks, I need several different containers to store clean water.
Right now I use trash barrels up on unused tank stands and either siphon into buckets to be lifted and poured by hand, or I use a sump pump which has to be added and removed as needed and stored with associated hose when not in use.
One of the LFS I worked at had built a loft with three big vats, one for fresh, one for salt mix and one for RO water. A gravity feed filled each display tank and was controlled by spring loaded valves that had to be held open by hand so as to prevent someone from opening a valve and walking away and forgetting.
Consequently water changes were a snap which made the chore much more painless and insured it was less likely to be skipped.
I would also insist on a big shop sink with a big counter. A drain would be a must, even if a pump was required to get the water to the house drain.
After that, comfy chairs, maybe a couch and quality sound system would be nice. Dream on!
#3
Guest_nativecajun_*
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Posted 23 March 2008 - 06:58 PM
New addition why not make it convienient and run water out there. Sink, cleaning area etc etc.
Daniel
Daniel
#4
Guest_centrarchid_*
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Posted 23 March 2008 - 07:35 PM
The Mrs. and I are planning on putting a fish-room addition on this spring. It's going to be 14'x16' with a slab floor. I'm going to put radiant hot water heating in the floor so it's out of the way. It's not near any water supply or drain so I'll still have to use the python to the bathroom but I wont have to worry about weight on my 1893 farm house floor. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas or advise. I have had a small fish-room for about 9 years so I'm looking forward to have a lot more room. Especially now that my wife has decided to get back into guppies. I figure this will be a real learning experience. I will try to keep this thread updated with my progress. Look forward to hear everyone ideas.
Herschel
Would you consider linking at least some of the tanks into a water reuse system? Reduces managment points. What about a central blower or air compressor? Potentially easier to service.
#5
Guest_jase_*
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Posted 23 March 2008 - 09:10 PM
I definitely agree. If it's really difficult to do this for some reason, then at least go for some large elevated reservoirs for mixing/aging your water, and another large one at floor level to use as a holding tank which you can use your python to siphon out of into the drain. But... having water and drain available in that room, plus a large utility sink for cleaning tanks and gear would make it much more enjoyable and less hassle/mess to keep up with water changes.New addition why not make it convienient and run water out there. Sink, cleaning area etc etc. Daniel
Cheers, Jase
#6
Guest_Skipjack_*
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Posted 23 March 2008 - 10:53 PM
After going to the expense of building this I would not skimp on the water. you are likely talking about additional $1000. If you decide in two years that you need the water, it will cost you 3-5 times that. One thing a fish room needs is water.
#7
Guest_hmt321_*
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Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:26 AM
The costs for plumbing an addition can vary wildly, the drains are really the major concern. I would consider plumbing a drain with a vent at the center of each wall, (depending on where your windows and doors are) that way you can run overflow drains to almost any point.
getting supply lines is typically easy (you can do it yourself with a $15.00 PEX tool rental, and an afternoon)
is your house connected to a city sewer? or are you on a septic system? depending on the height of the water table on your property you can build a gravel sump for the waste tank water to flow into very inexpensively.
when i moved I set my 40 gal and 75 gal up with a drip system and an overflow, i just turn a few valves and i can do water changes in minutes, I wish i had done it years ago
getting supply lines is typically easy (you can do it yourself with a $15.00 PEX tool rental, and an afternoon)
is your house connected to a city sewer? or are you on a septic system? depending on the height of the water table on your property you can build a gravel sump for the waste tank water to flow into very inexpensively.
when i moved I set my 40 gal and 75 gal up with a drip system and an overflow, i just turn a few valves and i can do water changes in minutes, I wish i had done it years ago
#8
Guest_ashtonmj_*
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Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:50 AM
I'm not sure this will work for you but my undegrad college had a fish room that was hooked up to well water (not sure if this wood matter if it was well or not). In the center of the floor there was a manhole with a sump pump about 3-4ft below. I could do mass water changes in 500 gallon concrete vats or a 1000 gallon stream tank that had its own sump below quite easily. Because all three tanks were hooked up to the plumbing system I could just increase the water coming in while keeping the flow the same or shutting it off completely, thus overflowing the sump or the vats. Water would slowly spill over and just run down the drain. Talk about an easy water change! I think some others have hit on something smiliar to this with overflow systems already so it certainly can be done at different volumes. If you are going for a concrete slab and are interseted in large volumes I would certainly say just build it into the floor in the corners. You're just adding rebar and 2-4 sides depending on your set up. I wish I had pictures of this place still because it was a great fish room set up with minimal costs. It was recessed into a mound of fill that was from the excavation, greenhouse glass facing southward, so it stayed well insulated in the dead of Ohio winters and cool in the dog days of summer.
#9
Guest_troutperch beeman_*
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Posted 24 March 2008 - 09:06 AM
I never thought asbout using pex tue to get the water over the room. I have to run pex ofr the floor heating anyway. Good idea! As far as a drain I'm on a septic tank in clay soil so I get very bad drainage.
Herschel
Herschel
#10
Guest_dafrimpster_*
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Posted 24 March 2008 - 09:11 AM
WIth the slab I would suggest a "rat wall" this is where they build a concrete lip a few inches high and wall width around the perimeter. That way if water gets on the floor it won't get the drywall and studs wet.
#11
Guest_troutperch beeman_*
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Posted 24 March 2008 - 11:06 AM
WIth the slab I would suggest a "rat wall" this is where they build a concrete lip a few inches high and wall width around the perimeter. That way if water gets on the floor it won't get the drywall and studs wet.
Good idea. Sorry about the poor spelling in my last post. My boss called me away from the computer before I could proof read
" .
#12
Guest_troutperch beeman_*
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Posted 24 March 2008 - 11:14 AM
Would you consider linking at least some of the tanks into a water reuse system? Reduces managment points. What about a central blower or air compressor? Potentially easier to service.
I have a linear air pump now and will up grade to a larger one when the new room is complete.
#13
Guest_nativecajun_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 07:33 AM
No need to run fish water in a septic system. The old code at least used to let you run laundry water just out into the lawn if you were on a septic system. Fish water would make your grass grow nice and green. Definatly do not run it into the septic if you have poor leaching. If you want to do anything just run a french drain under about two feet of dirt and maybe twenty feet or so out and let it leach into the soil that way if you do not want to just let it drain on the surface of the lawn. "French drain = black plastic direct "burieal(?spelling)" pipe with holes all around it". Buy it at any hardware or plumbing store.
Just a thought and my half penny worth.
Daniel
Just a thought and my half penny worth.
Daniel
#14
Guest_scottefontay_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 09:03 AM
THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH FRENCH DRAINS UP HERE IS THE DEPTH REQUIRED TO GET BELOW THE FROST LINE. 2 FT COULD VERY WELL SEE THAT CONDUIT FROZEN SOLID FOR 5-7 MONTHS OF THE YEAR. FROST LINE IS 4-5FT BELOW GRADE, GENERALLY. I AM HAVING SIMILAR DESIGN ISSUES: WHERE/HOW TO DISCHARGE WATER DURING THE WINTER.
#15
Guest_troutperch beeman_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 11:04 AM
I'm thinking I might just run the drain into my sump. My pump is always running anyway so it wont make of a difference. The only problem is that my sump is in the opposite corner of the house and I will have to get the drain through 2 cobblestone fondation walls. The walls are only about 2 or 3 feet thick. 
. You have to love old turn of the century houses.
. You have to love old turn of the century houses.
#16
Guest_mikez_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 11:24 AM
I've been hauling buckets up the cellar stairs for years.
The fresh water I dump on my lawn or garden or individual trees as needed.
The saltwater has to be carried to the street and dumped down the storm drain. Since water changes can be as much as 35 gallons, that's alot of buckets.
I recently purchased a sump pump and another trash can to solve the problem.
Now I siphon dirty water into the 35 gallon trash can and use the sump pump to empty the barrel out onto the yard or storm drain via long hose.
I still would rather have a drain but I'm not about to spend the money or effort to retrofit my 125 year old cellar to connect to town sewer.
Oh and before any one scolds me for dumping saltwater down the storm drain, let me just say that with the price of salt, my "monthly" water changes only happen 3 or 4 times per year.
It's a drop in the bucket compared to what DPW throws on the roads all winter.
The fresh water I dump on my lawn or garden or individual trees as needed.
The saltwater has to be carried to the street and dumped down the storm drain. Since water changes can be as much as 35 gallons, that's alot of buckets.
I recently purchased a sump pump and another trash can to solve the problem.
Now I siphon dirty water into the 35 gallon trash can and use the sump pump to empty the barrel out onto the yard or storm drain via long hose.
I still would rather have a drain but I'm not about to spend the money or effort to retrofit my 125 year old cellar to connect to town sewer.
Oh and before any one scolds me for dumping saltwater down the storm drain, let me just say that with the price of salt, my "monthly" water changes only happen 3 or 4 times per year.
It's a drop in the bucket compared to what DPW throws on the roads all winter.
#17
Guest_scottefontay_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 12:41 PM
my basement fishroom now has 14 or 15 tanks (one is 90 gal, 2 55gal, 2 30 gal, 1 40 gal, 3 15g and the remainder 10 gals....lots of water to change. I have a 3/4in piece of plywood ~2'x4' with on casters with a rope tied to one end. I've been filling the 20 gal round bins up and rolling them outside throught the garage two at a time (split ranch w. walkout garage) That's the easiest for me without getting into plumbing and I am certainly NOT going to go through the slap to install drain pipe. I will try pumping it out the window this summer with a trash or sump pump and can reach the roadside ditch with a hose in the winter time (wouldn't want sheeting ice on the driveway...).
Herschel, maybe just getting a 55 gal HDPE barrel with a sump pump would be the most efficient and convenient. that way you could move the discharge hose around and bring be able to only put it out in the winter when you actually do water changes.
Herschel, maybe just getting a 55 gal HDPE barrel with a sump pump would be the most efficient and convenient. that way you could move the discharge hose around and bring be able to only put it out in the winter when you actually do water changes.
#18
Guest_uniseine_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 03:53 PM
A 'drain, then refill' system gets the most cleaning from a water change; reduces nitrates etc. the most for the amount of water changed.
[Best way is a drain from the tank bottom with a ball valve.]
Best if you plan on doing 50%+ water changes. I currently do 80% water changes every two weeks. I know someone who leaves his goldfish flopping on the gravel when he does water changes- and he is a fisheries professional.
Problem - condition of the water going in
Solution - a) water aging system
or
b) float valve so you can fill the tank slowly (and not worry about overflows). I refill my tanks at a rate of less than 1 gallon an hour. My float valve can be moved tank to tank.
float valve pictures
[Best way is a drain from the tank bottom with a ball valve.]
Best if you plan on doing 50%+ water changes. I currently do 80% water changes every two weeks. I know someone who leaves his goldfish flopping on the gravel when he does water changes- and he is a fisheries professional.
Problem - condition of the water going in
Solution - a) water aging system
or
b) float valve so you can fill the tank slowly (and not worry about overflows). I refill my tanks at a rate of less than 1 gallon an hour. My float valve can be moved tank to tank.
float valve pictures
#19
Guest_nativecajun_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 04:17 PM
Whoopsss I forget to look where people live. I just assume the frost line is an inch deep like here. I really do not know what the frost line is here in the suburbs of Chattanooga but I can only assume it is less than three inches. Ya that would be a problem to get a french drain down five foot then long enough to drain at least a hundred gallons in one shot could get costly. Oh well its the thought that counts right "grin"
THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH FRENCH DRAINS UP HERE IS THE DEPTH REQUIRED TO GET BELOW THE FROST LINE. 2 FT COULD VERY WELL SEE THAT CONDUIT FROZEN SOLID FOR 5-7 MONTHS OF THE YEAR. FROST LINE IS 4-5FT BELOW GRADE, GENERALLY. I AM HAVING SIMILAR DESIGN ISSUES: WHERE/HOW TO DISCHARGE WATER DURING THE WINTER.
#20
Guest_nativecajun_*
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 04:20 PM
New fish room new sump. Just sling that dirty water in a outdoor skate rink in the winter and Volioa the kids will love you. If this is actually in a basment situation. I get lost in these threads. I do not see getting rid of the water as a big problem at all really.
I'm thinking I might just run the drain into my sump. My pump is always running anyway so it wont make of a difference. The only problem is that my sump is in the opposite corner of the house and I will have to get the drain through 2 cobblestone fondation walls. The walls are only about 2 or 3 feet thick.
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