I have a couple of Pumpkinseeds and Dollar Sunfish that have been battling anchor worms. When I got them, they had black grub which I treated them for. But I can't seem to get rid of these darn anchor worms! Right now I'm using Jungle's Parasite Clear, but I'm open to suggestions if anyone knows of something better. If it helps at all, I've had them for about 4 months and I'm a water change fanatic. Also, when I do changes, I always dose the amount of replacement water. I don't want to lose these fish as they've quickly become my favorite tank, but I'm stumped! Any ideas?
Anchor Worms
Started by
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, Oct 27 2008 12:52 AM
15 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_Mysteryman_*
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Posted 27 October 2008 - 10:02 AM
"Clout" gets rids of anchors and many other larger ectoparasites. Another choice is 'Anchors Away" if they even still make it. There are plenty others, but Clout is my own personal favorite, and easy enough to find. You should be able to find it in any petshop, but many orthophosphates will eliminate them quickly, so read the labels on the bottles for things like trichlorphon. Well, heck, if you're in a petshop I suppose you can just read the big labels for descriptions of what they do. You get what you pay for with fishy meds, too, so shop with care.
#3
Guest_az9_*
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Posted 27 October 2008 - 01:01 PM
I have a couple of Pumpkinseeds and Dollar Sunfish that have been battling anchor worms. When I got them, they had black grub which I treated them for. But I can't seem to get rid of these darn anchor worms! Right now I'm using Jungle's Parasite Clear, but I'm open to suggestions if anyone knows of something better. If it helps at all, I've had them for about 4 months and I'm a water change fanatic. Also, when I do changes, I always dose the amount of replacement water. I don't want to lose these fish as they've quickly become my favorite tank, but I'm stumped! Any ideas?
What did you use to treat them for the black grubs? And will it or some other product work on yellow grubs?
#4
Guest_centrarchid_*
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Posted 27 October 2008 - 01:14 PM
We use a product called Dimilin for anchor worm. Very effective.
Watch out when treating fish with heavy yello grub infestations, killing too many grubs can drag fish down with them.
Watch out when treating fish with heavy yello grub infestations, killing too many grubs can drag fish down with them.
#5
Guest_Freshnatives_*
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Posted 28 October 2008 - 01:31 AM
What did you use to treat them for the black grubs? And will it or some other product work on yellow grubs?
I used Coppersafe with the grubs, and haven't seen a recurrence of them.
Mysteryman: I've had mixed results with Clout in my other tanks, but I did lose two fish during one treatment. Most likely to overdosing on my part. The bad news is that is what is stuck in my brain.....Clout=loss of fish. Irrational, but in the back of my thoughts nonetheless.
centrarchid: I saw Dimilin in the pond section and originally thought of using it. I think I'll try this route when I go to the store tomorrow. Have you ever had any negative impact on beneficial bacteria when using it?
Thanks for your help! I'll update with my results.
Edited by Freshnatives, 28 October 2008 - 01:33 AM.
#6
Guest_bart_*
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Posted 29 November 2008 - 01:50 PM
My bluegill developed an anchor worm hanging off the side near the end of the caudal peduncle. I read up on anchor worm and found out that the "worm" is actually an egg case. Blech! Some people say pull them off others say that will cause further injury. I decided leaving an egg laden parasite in the tank was worse so I yanked. It was quite long and it looked like the head came out with the worm part. I have since treated the tank with jungle parasite clear, stress coat, and melafix for any resulting bacterial infection. I have another dose of parasite clear left in the pack and plan to treat as per the package says.
Should I have removed the worm or left it go for the treatment to take effect?
Is there any topical treatment for the anchor worm or resulting injury from removal?
Most treatments say to remove any charcoal filter media. Since I use penguin biowheel filters, that leaves me with no filtration. How long should the charcoal be out of the tank to allow the meds to work?
I have also read Dimilin was highly effective but not commonly available. Why not?
So far none of the other fish show signs of infection but I want to be as proactive as possible regarding any parasitic infestation. I have become quite attached to my little guys and want them safe and happy.
Should I have removed the worm or left it go for the treatment to take effect?
Is there any topical treatment for the anchor worm or resulting injury from removal?
Most treatments say to remove any charcoal filter media. Since I use penguin biowheel filters, that leaves me with no filtration. How long should the charcoal be out of the tank to allow the meds to work?
I have also read Dimilin was highly effective but not commonly available. Why not?
So far none of the other fish show signs of infection but I want to be as proactive as possible regarding any parasitic infestation. I have become quite attached to my little guys and want them safe and happy.
Edited by bart, 29 November 2008 - 01:52 PM.
#7
Guest_benmor78_*
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Posted 29 November 2008 - 06:47 PM
My bluegill developed an anchor worm hanging off the side near the end of the caudal peduncle. I read up on anchor worm and found out that the "worm" is actually an egg case. Blech! Some people say pull them off others say that will cause further injury. I decided leaving an egg laden parasite in the tank was worse so I yanked. It was quite long and it looked like the head came out with the worm part. I have since treated the tank with jungle parasite clear, stress coat, and melafix for any resulting bacterial infection. I have another dose of parasite clear left in the pack and plan to treat as per the package says.
Should I have removed the worm or left it go for the treatment to take effect?
Is there any topical treatment for the anchor worm or resulting injury from removal?
Most treatments say to remove any charcoal filter media. Since I use penguin biowheel filters, that leaves me with no filtration. How long should the charcoal be out of the tank to allow the meds to work?
I have also read Dimilin was highly effective but not commonly available. Why not?
So far none of the other fish show signs of infection but I want to be as proactive as possible regarding any parasitic infestation. I have become quite attached to my little guys and want them safe and happy.
I think the biowheel filters come with filter cartridges that have wadding and carbon, and also empty filter cartridges that you can put your own filter media in. Put just plain filter media in those cartridges, and take the carbon containing media out.
#8
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Posted 30 November 2008 - 05:02 PM
In my experience Dimilin did not harm biofiltration in water reuse systems. We have used it several time over the last two year, some times with as many as 100 brood size bluegill without deathloss attributable to the treatment.
The attached / imbedded females are apparently not susceptable to Dimilin, although free leaving juveniles are when molting (remember anchor worms like fish lice are actually crustaceans / highly derived copepods).
We did still remove some egg bearing females using very fine point tweezers. Secondary infection rates were low and could be controlled at least impart by using an antibiotic dip. During the removal process fish were held in a shallow container of water so they had to lay on their side. Exposed posteriors of anchorworm females were then grasped with tweezers and steadily pulled so the parasites body weas alligned with the direction of the pulling. Key to success was the fine tipped tweezers and minimal stress to fish. If I did not know better, which I do not, after a couple such tweezing events the bluegill would not be overly energetic about trying to escape. They may have realized such treatment made them feel better later.
On another note, it was cool seeing infected bluegill attempting to solicit by head standing the cleaning behavior of other bluegill.
The attached / imbedded females are apparently not susceptable to Dimilin, although free leaving juveniles are when molting (remember anchor worms like fish lice are actually crustaceans / highly derived copepods).
We did still remove some egg bearing females using very fine point tweezers. Secondary infection rates were low and could be controlled at least impart by using an antibiotic dip. During the removal process fish were held in a shallow container of water so they had to lay on their side. Exposed posteriors of anchorworm females were then grasped with tweezers and steadily pulled so the parasites body weas alligned with the direction of the pulling. Key to success was the fine tipped tweezers and minimal stress to fish. If I did not know better, which I do not, after a couple such tweezing events the bluegill would not be overly energetic about trying to escape. They may have realized such treatment made them feel better later.
On another note, it was cool seeing infected bluegill attempting to solicit by head standing the cleaning behavior of other bluegill.
#9
Guest_bullhead_*
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Posted 01 December 2008 - 08:21 PM
Aw, your pulling our legs here, aren't you?On another note, it was cool seeing infected bluegill attempting to solicit by head standing the cleaning behavior of other bluegill.
#10
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Posted 01 December 2008 - 09:29 PM
I observed this same behavior. Being new to native keeping I assumed it was typical bluegill behavior to "head stand" when in close proximity to other fish too large for the small gill to chase away. This behavior ceased after parasite removal and hasn't been seen since. Fascinating.Aw, your pulling our legs here, aren't you?
#11
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Posted 02 December 2008 - 09:53 AM
Aw, your pulling our legs here, aren't you?
The soliciting of bluegill by other fishes with external parasites is documented. The language / signals may not be conserved across species or population boundaries.
#12
Guest_ANALFIN_*
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Posted 27 September 2013 - 04:35 AM
is it a good idea to kill the worm with potassium permaganate before pulling out? or would this make the worm easier to break?
#13
littlen
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Posted 27 September 2013 - 10:51 AM
I don't see the purpose in doing that if you're already going to pull the adult (with or without egg cases) anyway. It can be troublesome to rid a tank of anchorworms if you don't have the right meds. Organophosphates work very well, but be careful about overdosing. I'm not positive about lernea eggs, but a lot of parasite larva are protected while still in the egg. Only adults and free-swimming larvae are affected. This is why it is important to stay on top of dosing even if you haven't seen any attached adults. A thorough gravel washing in between dosings is a great idea to siphon out any eggs/larva that might be in the gravel.
All in all, lernea are not the worst parasite for your fish to have although their frustration level can be quite high when trying to get rid of them. As others have mentioned, if you do pull the adults off your fish, just be sure to watch for secondary infections at the removal site. Salt can certainly help prevent any.
All in all, lernea are not the worst parasite for your fish to have although their frustration level can be quite high when trying to get rid of them. As others have mentioned, if you do pull the adults off your fish, just be sure to watch for secondary infections at the removal site. Salt can certainly help prevent any.
Nick L.
#14
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 28 September 2013 - 11:24 PM
Innes is a good reference here - one doesn't hear much about anchor worms these days.
#15
Guest_EBParks_*
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Posted 30 September 2013 - 02:33 PM
I've had a lot of success using the Micro Lift brand anchor worm treatment.
#16
Guest_Heather_*
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Posted 02 October 2013 - 10:21 PM
No kidding?? I thought I heard it had... glad to know.. thanks!In my experience Dimilin did not harm biofiltration in water reuse systems.
Now that is awesomeOn another note, it was cool seeing infected bluegill attempting to solicit by head standing the cleaning behavior of other bluegill.
My sunnies have extended no such courtesies towards each other, LOL
I read excellent things about Cyropro from Hikari... but haven't tried Dimilin because I was apparently misinformed.
Here's a link to Cyropro.. this is the pond version only because I'm treating a large tank, there are aquarium versions more diluted for smaller tanks.
http://www.amazon.co...e/dp/B0033Q03EQ
Cyropro has been reported to be 100% safe to your nitrifying bacterial colonies in your sump/filtration and from what I've heard does the job.
I actually just ordered some to treat my pumpkinseeds and the rest of the gang that have anchor worm (just collected 2 days ago) so I will report on my findings if you'd like
A long time ago I used parasite clear from Jungle on cichlids for anchor worm and it cleared it right up FWIW.
And a EDIT PS to the OP.... you have to dose for the ENTIRE tank plus sump volume (if any) post water changes... that may be your problem right there. Also be sure your carbon isn't present anywhere if you use it until the anchor worm is gone.
Edited by Heather, 02 October 2013 - 10:23 PM.
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