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Refrigeration


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#1 Guest_NateTessler13_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 02:41 PM

Hi, I saw there was another post about keeping a tank cool, but I don't think it answered the question I have. I have an extra refridgerator, a dorm size fridge. I have a large canister filter too, one that might be able to fit in the refridgerator. Has anyone put their filter in a fridge before? How can I successfully do this? Any help would be appreciated.

#2 Guest_chad55_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 04:33 PM

Not sure about putting the actuall equipment in the fridge but you can deffinatly run the lines in the fridge and coil it up inside and get as much line ran inside then run back out and into the tank. Just drill a nice small hole through the side of the fridge and maybe run some silicone around the edges when you get the lines through it. Just a thought.

Chad

#3 Guest_nativeplanter_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 04:42 PM

Never done it myself, but I think I read an idea once to put a bucket of water inside the fridge, and then run the coils through the bucket. Should help cool the water faster.

#4 Guest_Irate Mormon_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 04:52 PM

Not sure about putting the actuall equipment in the fridge but you can deffinatly run the lines in the fridge and coil it up inside and get as much line ran inside then run back out and into the tank. Just drill a nice small hole through the side of the fridge and maybe run some silicone around the edges when you get the lines through it. Just a thought.

There has been a lot of talk over the years amongst us native hobbyists about how well this would work. Lots of debate, but no real conclusions. Surely somebody has actually done this and reported on real-world results? It turns out that it will chill a 30 gallon tank by about 4 degrees.

http://www.becnel.ne.../reef/cool.html

#5 Guest_nativeplanter_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 04:57 PM

There has been a lot of talk over the years amongst us native hobbyists about how well this would work. Lots of debate, but no real conclusions. Surely somebody has actually done this and reported on real-world results? It turns out that it will chill a 30 gallon tank by about 4 degrees.

http://www.becnel.ne.../reef/cool.html


Interesting. He talks about how the bucket idea will actually cause the system to cool less efficiently, not more. Makes sense, if I read it correctly.

#6 Guest_teleost_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 05:22 PM

It turns out the extra dorm fridge I loaned out became a gift somehow :x

I would do almost as the link suggests but would use 1/2" copper tube instead of vinyl. Should conduct the temperature better. I planned on circulating highly concentrated salt water prior to using in a system. With the copper, plants might be out of the question. Making sure proper space between coils is also very important. Small pump will help keep the temps low also. I hope to place a system of buried pipes once I get my fish room set up. Would help really help trick the fishes both winter and summer.

#7 Guest_ShinersRock_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 09:16 PM

Hmm. Instead of putting my air pumps outside, maybe I could just stick them in my dorm fridge. :-D Maybe you should try this idea yourself. I think it would work out good.

#8 Guest_fundulus_*

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 11:02 PM

Hmm. Instead of putting my air pumps outside, maybe I could just stick them in my dorm fridge. :-D Maybe you should try this idea yourself. I think it would work out good.


Using a "dorm fridge" is hugely inefficient in terms of energy. If you have one in a dorm room and you're not paying the electric bill, who cares, of course(?). The real question in such a rig is how the air return line is insulated so that you're actually delivering cold air into your aquarium. I wouldn't be surprised if Irate's figure of 4 degrees (F, I assume?) is accurate for how much you drop the temperature. Would it be more efficient to pump tap water enclosed in a line through a tank, assuming this water is near groundwater temperature and at least a little cooler than ambient room temperature? It could be the same effect with simpler engineering.

#9 Guest_chad55_*

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Posted 14 December 2006 - 12:15 AM

Ahhhhh! That is a great idea! You could use the same concept of a drip system for water changes. Use cold water going in and maybe a bit faster flow. IDK how this would work but it sure would be nice to have an automatic water change and chiller all built into one. Good idea man!

Chad

#10 Guest_teleost_*

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Posted 14 December 2006 - 08:37 AM

Ahhhhh! That is a great idea! You could use the same concept of a drip system for water changes. Use cold water going in and maybe a bit faster flow. IDK how this would work but it sure would be nice to have an automatic water change and chiller all built into one. Good idea man!

Chad


I don't think Fundulus is implying using a "drip" type system to cool the tank. He said "enclosed line". I'm pretty sure he means it might be best to run cold water through a "loop" system.

#11 Guest_fundulus_*

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Posted 14 December 2006 - 10:18 AM

I don't think Fundulus is implying using a "drip" type system to cool the tank. He said "enclosed line". I'm pretty sure he means it might be best to run cold water through a "loop" system.


Yeah, that was my meaning, a "loop" system. Language failed me.

#12 Guest_chad55_*

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Posted 14 December 2006 - 02:40 PM

:oops: Well hey I just came up with another idea then....

Chad

#13 Guest_ShinersRock_*

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Posted 15 December 2006 - 03:02 AM

Using a "dorm fridge" is hugely inefficient in terms of energy. If you have one in a dorm room and you're not paying the electric bill, who cares, of course(?). The real question in such a rig is how the air return line is insulated so that you're actually delivering cold air into your aquarium. I wouldn't be surprised if Irate's figure of 4 degrees (F, I assume?) is accurate for how much you drop the temperature. Would it be more efficient to pump tap water enclosed in a line through a tank, assuming this water is near groundwater temperature and at least a little cooler than ambient room temperature? It could be the same effect with simpler engineering.


Well, lets forget about the electric bill then. I think if I made the air return line short as possible, then the air would only be in there for maybe 2 seconds if short enough. But yea, the electric bill could be a problem. I foresee a problem with the pump constantly pumping out the air. I don't know if the refrigerator will be able to keep up being cold with the air leaving so quickly. So it may not be able to keep the tank very cool. Hmm, I guess I'll just have to try it and find out. I will test it tomorrow and find out if it can maintain a constant temperature.

#14 Guest_nativeplanter_*

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Posted 15 December 2006 - 11:05 AM

Using a "dorm fridge" is hugely inefficient in terms of energy. If you have one in a dorm room and you're not paying the electric bill, who cares, of course(?). The real question in such a rig is how the air return line is insulated so that you're actually delivering cold air into your aquarium. I wouldn't be surprised if Irate's figure of 4 degrees (F, I assume?) is accurate for how much you drop the temperature. Would it be more efficient to pump tap water enclosed in a line through a tank, assuming this water is near groundwater temperature and at least a little cooler than ambient room temperature? It could be the same effect with simpler engineering.


Outside of running a line outdoors underground, is there an affordable alternative to the dorm fridge that would use less energy (assuming using water, not air)? Let's assume that running a line outside isn't feasible (due to not owning the property, or not being on the ground floor). Are there other options that might work and be more energy efficient?

#15 Guest_teleost_*

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Posted 15 December 2006 - 01:44 PM

I used this product. It's powerful and reliable.living stream




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