Jump to content


Fish Acclimation "Drip Method"


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_BTDarters_*

Guest_BTDarters_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 03:34 AM

Fish Acclimation "Drip Method" Defined

Thought I would post this here as I found that the "drip method" of fish acclimation isn't defined anywhere on the site. Not that I could find, anyways. ~ BT

What is the "Drip Method"?

The "drip method" is a method of acclimating fish, or other organisms, (hereafter only "fish") to a new tank in a very slow and "gentle" way. The amount of time used to acclimate the fish can span from less than one hour to many hours.

What is the advantage of the "Drip Method"?

By taking hours to acclimate the fish, instead of minutes, fish that are particularly sensitive may be acclimated relatively safely to their new desired environment. This is particularly beneficial when there is a significant difference in water temperature or chemistry from the fish bag to the receiving tank.

What equipment do I need to have to use the "Drip Method"?

  • A bag of fish that need to be put in a new tank.
  • A length of airline tubing.
  • An airline micro-valve or other device that can be used as a water flow resticter.
  • A bucket or other container to use as the acclimation container for the fish.
  • A tank set-up to receive your fish.

How do I perform the "Drip Method"?

Basically, you take your bagged fish that you want to put in the receiving tank and empty the bag, fish and all, into your bucket or other container. Take that container and put it below the level of the receiving aquarium, next to the tank. Take your airline tubing and attach the micro valve in-line or at the "downstream" end of the tube. You will be using the tubing to slowly transfer water water from the receiving tank into the bucket with the fish. The point of having the valve on the tubing is so that you can adjust the flow-rate or "drip". If you don't have a micro-valve, you can attach an airstone to the "upstream" end of the tubing. This will restrict flow in the tube, but it's not adjustable.

Now that you have your tubing ready, you can start the "drip" into the bucket. You will need to start a siphon in the tube, flowing from the receiving tank down into the bucket. You can do this one of two ways:

1.) By putting the "upstream" end of the tube into the tank and sucking on the "downstream" end of the tube until water fills the tube almost all of the way towards your mouth. Then quickly put the "downstream" end of the tube into the bucket. Try not to get fish-water in your mouth! :)

or..

2.) Submerge the full length of the tube into the receiving aquarium, making sure that you get all air bubbles out of the tube. Then, put your thumb over the "downstream" end of the tube and pull the tube, with the exception of the "upstream" end, out of the tank. Keep your thumb on the "downstream" end of the tube and put the tube into the bucket. Release your thumb and you will have started a siphon.

Now that you have the "drip" going, you can adjust the flow if you have used a micro-valve. If you have used an airstone, you will just have to watch the flow. A good flow rate is probably a gallon per hour. This will depend, though, on the temperature and/or water chemistry differences from the "fish bag water" and the receiving aquarium. Keep an eye on the fish. If they seem to be getting stressed, slow or stop the drip. You can always re-start it later. You are now acclimating your fish via the "drip method"! :) Now just keep an eye on the "drip" so that you don't overflow the container!

How do I know when to stop the "drip"?

When you are able to test the acclimation container water and the tank water for water chemistry and/or temperature, and they test-out the same, you are ready to remove the fish from the acclimation container and put them in the tank. Net the fish out of the container and put them directly into the tank. Now, what you do with the water in the acclimation container is up to you. As the container has at least some "fish bag water" in it, you may want to dump it out. If you do so, you will need to top the tank off with clean water. If you're using tap water, be sure to dechlorinate/dechloraminate as necessary. Otherwise, just put the acclimation container water back in the tank.

You've just used the "drip method"! 8-)

Brian

#2 Guest_njJohn_*

Guest_njJohn_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:43 AM

I always tie a knot in the hose to get the right drip.

#3 Guest_jblaylock_*

Guest_jblaylock_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:15 AM

Excellent article. This seems like a great method. This will be easier than added a cup of tank water in every hour.

So, let me get this straight, your basically make a siphon with airline and using the valve to slow the water to a drip?

#4 Guest_UncleWillie_*

Guest_UncleWillie_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:21 AM

You've got it Josh. A really slow, regulated siphon into the the bucket.
Brian, excellent write-up. It is a good thing to know for sure. I wonder if this could be 'sticky'ed.

Edited by UncleWillie, 22 October 2009 - 08:21 AM.


#5 Guest_Clayton_*

Guest_Clayton_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 09:01 AM

The knot idea is the way to go. I've always used it and it's easier to manipulate than the valves I've used.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a flash video worth? Flash drip acclimation video

Only time I've had bad luck with drip acclimation is in fish that have been shipped and were in the bag a very long time. Dripping leaves whatever ammonia was in the water and when you start allowing gas exchange and increasing ph the toxicity rises pretty quickly. In those cases I think it was gentler on the fish to just move them directly to the quarantine tank. I only ever ran into those situation with transhipped fish though, so it shouldn't be a problem with natives.

#6 Guest_schambers_*

Guest_schambers_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 02:21 PM

Excellent tutorial, Brian! I use this method a lot. I don't test the water, I just add at least two times the existing water and call it good.

#7 Guest_centrarchid_*

Guest_centrarchid_*
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:02 PM

Flow control can be achieved by changing head (elevation between "upstream" and "downstream" ends), length of siphon and diameter. To really slow flow, use an IV line.

#8 Guest_BTDarters_*

Guest_BTDarters_*
  • Guests

Posted 28 October 2009 - 07:52 AM

Thanks for the kudos, guys! Also, that was a neat video, Clayton. I'll have to see if one of the mods can sticky my post.

Brian

Edit: Edited for content.

Edited by BTDarters, 28 October 2009 - 07:53 AM.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users