
new to live plants. need some guidance.
#1
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 07 December 2009 - 04:04 PM
Mike
#2
Guest_Elijah_*
Posted 08 December 2009 - 01:55 AM
My suggestion is go for a Walstad style tank.
You might find this link helpful.
http://thegab.org/Pl...anted-tank.html
I have 9 planted tanks. I have used many methods. It can get really expensive. I wish I had learned this style before I went out and spent a bunch of $ on gadgets. I set one of these up two weeks ago and the plants are growing really fast. I have no cycling issues and I have many fish in it already.
I used a 1" layer of organic compost(with a super low npk rating)covered with a 1 1/2" layer of play sand. Do not use the white play sand unless you have fish that like hard water. With this set up your ph will stay lower. Many fish like low ph, but some prefer higher. Something to keep in mind.
I also use a T-5 light set up with 2x 6700k bulbs. I do not have enough sunlight coming in to go without these lights. Old school florescent hoods generally only offer enough light for plants that do not need much light.
I do fertilize with seachem, and seachem excel once a week, but am gradually cutting back on the dosage.
Get as many plants as you can! this is the key to fighting algae, providing clean water and oxygen for you fish.
Filtration. In tanks that still have filters, I keep them running on the lowest setting and have removed the carbon- as it only removed minerals that the plants like. If I have to medicate a tank I will put it back in after to help remove the old med.
Many of my tanks no longer have filters. Many HOB filters have a splashy waterfall effect that off-gasses co2. -not good for the plants. Airstones are not good either.
During the night plants stop producing oxygen and start using oxygen. If you have enough plants they will supposedly produce way more oxygen than they will use over the course of the night. I have not had any problems. But, in tanks that have fish with unusually high oxygen needs- I run a power head on a timer that starts when the lights go out and ends an hour after the lights come on. This gives the plants time to start producing more oxygen.
The more plants you put in right off the top the better. That's the key.
Happy Planting!
#3
Guest_mudminnow_*
Posted 08 December 2009 - 08:55 AM
#4
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 08 December 2009 - 07:18 PM
#5
Guest_gzeiger_*
Posted 08 December 2009 - 07:53 PM
It would help to know something about the intensity of your lighting also. How big is the tank, how many and what size (length, and also are they T5, T8 or T12) and wattage or lumen rating are the bulbs, and do they have a reflector?
Edited by gzeiger, 08 December 2009 - 07:55 PM.
#6
Guest_mudminnow_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 11:21 AM
Anubias barteri var. nana
Anubias barteri var. angustifolia
Vesicularia dubyana-(Java Moss)
Bolbitis heudelotii-(This plant may only have proved so hardy for me because I have soft water.)
I have also found Java Fern, Microsorum pteropus, to be incredibly hardy.
#7
Guest_rickwrench_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 01:19 PM
Clean, bare gravel is a tough environment for rooted plants.
Of the native plants that I've tried to starve to death in gravel:
Vals have done pretty well in a bare gravel tanks, with harder water.
Sagittaria subulata can also do well in gravel.
One word of caution, all vals and most sags are sensitive to Excel and may melt if not acclimated slowly (so, no initial "overdose" to kill algae).
Hygrophila Difformis/Water Wisteria is tough to kill.
It is non-native, originally imported from India.
WW adapts to most tank condition quickly, and it also seems to grow just fine as a floater in my "jail" tank. In a stable tank it will happily and quickly starve algae out of existence. You will be trimming WW back about every other week, btw.
For plant success, lighting -stability- has been the key for me. Whenever I change anything having to do with lighting (bulbs, intensity, or duration), algae often adapts faster to the new conditions than the plants, which take a few weeks to figure it out.
Rick
Edited by rickwrench, 09 December 2009 - 01:23 PM.
#8
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 06:07 PM
#9
Guest_gzeiger_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 06:31 PM
#10
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 08:29 PM
will that screw with my filters? i have 2 HOB. plus what happens when i gravel vac?If you pour sand over the top it will work its way down. Many plants will be ok with that.
#11
Guest_mudminnow_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 09:10 PM
#12
Guest_mudminnow_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 09:20 PM
will that screw with my filters? i have 2 HOB. plus what happens when i gravel vac?
Actually, sand is pretty easy to take care of. But, you don't put the gravel vac down into the sand. Instead you swirl it over the top of the sand to get at all the stuff you need to suck up. Also, your HOB filters will only be negatively affected by the sand if the current is strung enough to get the sand sucked up into the filters.
#13
Guest_Elijah_*
Posted 09 December 2009 - 09:41 PM
I did one tank with a mix of old medium sized gravel mixed with some sand and my plants are out of control in that tank! I do have two 6,700K t-5 bulbs on that tank though. And I do fertilize that tank with seachem and seachem excel. -not to try to sell the product or anything. In fact if you end up using some val I would suggest using less ferts if you use them. Seachem apparently can make val melt. Not sure about that as mine was rockin' and then all died off a month ago.Actually, sand is pretty easy to take care of. But, you don't put the gravel vac down into the sand. Instead you swirl it over the top of the sand to get at all the stuff you need to suck up. Also, your HOB filters will only be negatively affected by the sand if the current is strung enough to get the sand sucked up into the filters.
I got some of my lights for cheap on craigslist. I like t-5's best, but cfl's are good too. Just make sure you get them with freshwater bulbs, iuf you go that route. Some fixtures come with actinic bulbs for corals- not good for plants...
Pool filter sand is cheap, if you have a pool store around you. Playsand is wicked cheap too. Just don't go with the white stuff.
Hmm, what kind of substrate do you have? Cichlid folks often use crushed shell or coral substrates. Not so good for a lot of native fish.
#14
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 10 December 2009 - 06:02 AM
i have 10000k temp lighting for the bulbs and for the substrate i just have regular black gravel on the bottom and i just added a natural stone pea gravel layer on top of thatI did one tank with a mix of old medium sized gravel mixed with some sand and my plants are out of control in that tank! I do have two 6,700K t-5 bulbs on that tank though. And I do fertilize that tank with seachem and seachem excel. -not to try to sell the product or anything. In fact if you end up using some val I would suggest using less ferts if you use them. Seachem apparently can make val melt. Not sure about that as mine was rockin' and then all died off a month ago.
I got some of my lights for cheap on craigslist. I like t-5's best, but cfl's are good too. Just make sure you get them with freshwater bulbs, iuf you go that route. Some fixtures come with actinic bulbs for corals- not good for plants...
Pool filter sand is cheap, if you have a pool store around you. Playsand is wicked cheap too. Just don't go with the white stuff.
Hmm, what kind of substrate do you have? Cichlid folks often use crushed shell or coral substrates. Not so good for a lot of native fish.
#15
Guest_nativeplanter_*
Posted 10 December 2009 - 01:18 PM
#16
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 10 December 2009 - 06:13 PM
#17
Guest_Elijah_*
Posted 12 December 2009 - 02:04 PM
Maybe the easiest direction for you would be to get a bag of CaribSea Eco-Complete Planted Aquarium Substrate and mix it in with the substrate you already have. http://www.amazon.co...e/dp/B001EUE80S this stuff works great and I have done what I am suggesting with excellent results.the lighting will be what ever the bulbs will be? lol its near a window but does not get sunlight from the window. so what ever bulbs i choose is how much lighting there will be i have 2 ballasts that hold 1 bulb each about 18" or so?
You might want to remove a portion of your old substrate depending on how deep it is. About 3" is a good amount to have in the tank.
Next, you have old school t-8 light strips right? Get full spectrum/grow bulbs for them and replace them every 6-12 months.
Here is a list of low light plants that should do well in your tank. This seller is excellent too.
http://www.aquariump...Plants_s/25.htm
The other thing you might want to do is go out to a pond or swamp or river and look for aquatic plants growing in shady areas, or what would be shady when there are leaves on the trees. You may have to dig through old leaves and other detritus to find the living plants sheltered beneath. You should be able to find some still. The closer you look the more you find. I scored a bunch of plants last week. Many of them were tiny, but are growing quickly. Some stay small and make good ground cover.
Have fun with it!
#18
Guest_sonix215_*
Posted 09 January 2010 - 07:43 PM
#19
Guest_Elijah_*
Posted 10 January 2010 - 02:55 PM
Java Fern and Java Moss will take root on driftwood. They Will need to be tied down or wedged onto the driftwood for a while in order to take hold. There are several different kinds of Java Fern. Anubias will also root onto wood with a little help. There are several different kinds. They tend to be on the delicate side and expensive, but nice looking plants.well i just got some drift wood in from drfostersmith. added it in the tank! looks awesome but bare( yeah i know about the tannins) what plants can i get that will attach to the wood? i want something that will look nice. eventually everything fake in the tank is comming out and real is going in
#20
Guest_dsaavedra_*
Posted 10 January 2010 - 04:20 PM
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