![Posted Image](http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e146/justindlawson/Killis_Mudminnow_Ick002.jpg)
![Posted Image](http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e146/justindlawson/Killis_Mudminnow_Ick001.jpg)
all fish are eating well.
Posted 07 May 2010 - 11:21 AM
Posted 07 May 2010 - 03:39 PM
Posted 07 May 2010 - 04:45 PM
That certainly does look like ich. The commonly recommended treatments for it are to add salt to the water, raise temperature incrementally above 86 F, or treat with a copper-based antibiotic such as malachite green, or formalin. Any of these will kill the parasite, but may be harmful in varying degrees to your fish. I am insufficiently familiar with your fish species to make a more specific recommendation. Ideally you would want to remove all fish and treat them in a separate tank, as salt will be severely detrimental to the plants I see in your photo and copper medications linger in the tank a long time and kill desirable invertebrates like snails and biofilters (and I am unsure of their effect on the plants for that matter). Salt and heat may be combined and will be more effective than either alone, assuming your fish can tolerate these conditions. If you opt for salt alone due to low heat tolerance of the fish, you can still raise temperature toward the upper end of what they will be comfortable with. This will accelerate the parasite's life cycle and reduce the overall treatment time. Do not combine heat and medication, as this may result in unacceptably low oxygen levels.
If the fish can be removed before treatment and kept in the hospital tank for about ten days the main tank should be free of parasites by that time, especially if it has been warmed, and will not require treatment. Wherever the fish are treated, frequent large volume water changes are recommended because the parasite does have a free-swimming stage prior to infecting a host, and many can be removed this way. The more you can boost the fish's immune system by lowering the rate of new infections on the gills and providing clean water the faster they will recover.
In my experience the salt concentrations usually recommended for this purpose are not harmful to filter bacteria.
Posted 07 May 2010 - 06:48 PM
Posted 07 May 2010 - 06:55 PM
So how much is that for a 20 long? How do I bring it up slowly? I don't just wanna throw in the salt up to 1.003I use marine salt since I have it on hand and it works fine. I just had ich show up in my large native tank. I kicked the salinity up to a specific gravity of 1.003 and the heat up to the low 80's after sticking in another powerhead to get the surface all mixed up. Spots gone in about a week. I turned the heat down after the spots were gone for two weeks but left the salinity up for about a month total. My plants (a lot of the same stuff in your tank) have all been fine and some stubborn cyanobacteria disappeared, probably because of the increased water movement.
Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:21 PM
go to your local fish store and ask for a hydrometer. a cheap one is about 5$.So how much is that for a 20 long? How do I bring it up slowly? I don't just wanna throw in the salt up to 1.003
Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:37 PM
Posted 07 May 2010 - 09:09 PM
Posted 08 May 2010 - 08:23 AM
Posted 08 May 2010 - 08:26 AM
Posted 08 May 2010 - 10:23 AM
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+2160&aid=2421thanks guys! yeah i already have marine salt so thats easiest. ITS POURING outside right now so when it lets up im gonna finish the tanks. do i water change everyday and keep adding salt or once i get the salt up to 1.003 do i just leave it with the heat? once im at 1.003 what do i do next?
Posted 14 May 2010 - 08:38 AM
Posted 14 May 2010 - 09:07 AM
Posted 14 May 2010 - 09:24 AM
Posted 14 May 2010 - 09:26 AM
Posted 14 May 2010 - 11:31 AM
Posted 14 May 2010 - 11:36 AM
How did you do a 100% substrate change in a planted tank?
I would recommend you leave the salt in for a few more days. It is possible for the parasite to remain in the tank with no apparent symptoms for a time. The cysts that form on the fish seem to be protected from most chemical treatments, so at the time they disappear they have just formed potentially viable free-swimming larvae. The danger may be slight, but I'd give it about 3 days more before I went back to fresh water.
Edited by bumpylemon, 14 May 2010 - 11:37 AM.
Posted 14 May 2010 - 01:56 PM
Posted 14 May 2010 - 02:00 PM
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