Nasty B Gone
#1
Posted 26 September 2013 - 12:15 PM
Thanks.
"No thanks, a third of a gopher would merely arouse my appetite..."
#2 Guest_EricaLyons_*
Posted 26 September 2013 - 12:27 PM
The near-boiling water at home is mostly because I don't like to open bleach indoors. It'll remove your sense of smell in just a few breaths, so it's best used outdoors.
Oh, and be careful with biofilms because the interior of the slimy mass might not have been sterilized.
#3
Posted 26 September 2013 - 01:19 PM
#4
Posted 26 September 2013 - 03:32 PM
"No thanks, a third of a gopher would merely arouse my appetite..."
#7 Guest_ashtonmj_*
Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:23 AM
#8 Guest_EricaLyons_*
Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:30 AM
Thanks. How long we talkin' here, Erica?
Source: http://www.deh-inc.c...t To Bleach.pdfChlorine Bleach is another accepted liquid sterilizing agent. Household bleach consists of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite. It is usually diluted to 1:10 immediately before use; however to kill Mycobacterium tuberculosis it should be diluted only 1:5, and 1:2.5 (1 part bleach and 1.5 parts water) to inactivate prions (it doesn’t kill prions, nuking them doesn’t kill them; they are indestructible like cockroaches). Bleach will kill many organisms immediately, but for full sterilization it should be allowed to react for 20 minutes. Bleach will kill many, but not all spores. It is also highly corrosive. Bleach decomposes over time when exposed to air, so fresh solutions should be made daily or before each use.
The author recommends 1:5 (1% sodium hypochlorite, starting from 5%) instead of 1:10 (0.5% sodium hypochlorite) because of mycobacterium.
There is a bacteria in the mycobacterium genus relevant to fish pathology: mycobacterium marinum. Also we deal with biofilms in our line of work. Slimes, plaques, things like that. They are more resistant to sterilization because the outer coating protects the inner coating from contact with the cleaning solution, so that's why I recommended a strong 1% in my post above. You'll find that dollar store bleaches are usually 6%. What dilution you use to get to 1% depends on your starting concentration.
#9 Guest_EricaLyons_*
Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:40 AM
An air dry (complete dry) of a minimum of 48 hours can also be effective, but the aforementioned solutions are better.
My hydras survived an air dry. My cladophora algae did, too. So can some eggs, most spores, and a whole bunch of nasties. My best guess is that the water level isn't constant in the wild and a lot of the simpler creatures have adapted to become totally fine with drying out completely. I stopped doing 'dry means clean' a while ago because it kept failing me.
#10 Guest_sbtgrfan_*
Posted 27 September 2013 - 09:50 AM
#11
Posted 27 September 2013 - 11:13 AM
"No thanks, a third of a gopher would merely arouse my appetite..."
#12 Guest_EricaLyons_*
Posted 27 September 2013 - 11:23 AM
Bacteria can. Cysts can. Spores can.However, there was also a "protocol" that said that if we were air drying our gear for at least 5-7 days straight, there was no need to put the chemical on it because no living aquatic organism can live out of water that long.
Think about brine shrimp as an example. Can adult brine shrimp survive drying? No. But their egg cysts can. Similarly, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can enter dormant stages where they are able to survive drying. Vernal pools are an example of an environment where being able to survive drying would give a survival advantage, and can select for a dry-surviving strain.
#13 Guest_Rainbowrunner_*
Posted 27 September 2013 - 10:35 PM
#14 Guest_EricaLyons_*
Posted 28 September 2013 - 09:16 AM
At least a day. Mine had no problem going from complete saltwater to complete fresh, too, so saltwater/freshwater dips wouldn't kill them. http://forum.nanfa.o...worms-id-video/erica how long do you suspect hydra can survive without water? i too have noticed this phenomenon.
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