Jump to content


My Stream Tank Project


  • Please log in to reply
27 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 04 March 2013 - 12:42 PM

I have been planning on doing a custom community tank for darters. I originally posted an excel spreadsheet on the Percidae husbandry group of Facebook and another member took the measurements and did a 3D rendering of it which has gotten me pretty excited. Though the acrylic is cut I have thought about using plywood for the bottom and backside. If I were to make that change I would increase the width from 12" to 24" and I could also save some acrylic for future tanks. I'm also debating on whether I should have the incoming water start in the corner and exiting at the end of each length bscically creating to seperate small streams or having the water start at the end of one length, travel around the corner to the other end. Any suggestions? By the way the depth is 11" (23" in the middle), from back corner to each end is 96". I haven't done the math for total volume of water.

Attached Files



#2 Michael Wolfe

Michael Wolfe
  • Board of Directors
  • North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage

Posted 04 March 2013 - 07:13 PM

wow ken, I like that idea... its like 7, ten gallon tanks side by side on each leg.... so I am thinking you are going to get something over 100-150 gallons even if you don't change the width.

I think if it were me, I would make the water flow from the center out to each end... as long as it is I think separate streams would work better... from a water flow perspective. Are you thinking of a return of any type... like a stand pipe or some sort of overflow at each end? Interesting plumbing options to think about. Of course from the fish perspective, they will go wherever they want along both legs... but that too would be very interesting.

Keep us posted on this build!
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin

#3 Guest_Doug_Dame_*

Guest_Doug_Dame_*
  • Guests

Posted 04 March 2013 - 07:35 PM

Wow, that's interesting ! (Looks around room for a place where a tank like that might fit. Nowhere, alas.)

If you have the floor space to go with 24" wide, that would be my recommendation, it just gives you so many options for velocity zones and aquascaping, that are hard to carry off in a narrow shute.

Also, with a 12" width, seems like either one of your water movement options would require "water returns" via pipes, either buried or external. Either way, a lot of friction to overcome. But with a 24" tank width, you could have a circulation pattern in each arm, and finess the need for circulation water to be travelling in pipes. (Your filtration still might need pipes, depending on how you plan on doing that, but it's generally best to consider circulation and filtration separately.)

At 231 inches3 / gallon,
the arms at 96x12x11 are approx 55 gal each
the center pool adds another 36x12x11 or 20 gal,
so approximately 130 gallons, as is.

Exciting!

#4 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 March 2013 - 12:35 AM

Michael, That's the direction I am leaning, inpotting the water in the center. And yes I am considering standpipes at each end camouflaged within the aquascape.

Doug, regarding the width, yes I have the room. But then I have several directions I could go with this. One direction is if I compensate for the depth in front and move everything forward I could lose the glass shown in the center and would probably not include the extra foot depth in the center. Or if I keep the center glass and keep the length in back as is the center would increase I will lose @ a foot on each leg. Or... I could keep the front as is but then to retain the length of each leg I will need to extend the two backsides by a foot which will need a splice. Hmmm.... I like the center area glass/depth vs. just a "L" shaped tank and the leg lengths. I think extending the backsides would be the way to go. It seems it would be the easiest and would still keep the original design. I'll have to do some checking because I want to maintain structural integrity with splices especially with the increase of water volume.

#5 Guest_Yeahson421_*

Guest_Yeahson421_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 March 2013 - 12:47 PM

I love this tank. Personally, I would have the flow coming from each of the streams into the pool, as I feel that would make the most sense, and seeing how fish react to being pulled into that pool would be very interesting. I've also learned that you can learn a lot about how to catch fish by watching them in your tanks, and this setup would likely demonstrate that better, as we as seiners rarely chase fish downstream.

#6 Michael Wolfe

Michael Wolfe
  • Board of Directors
  • North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage

Posted 05 March 2013 - 04:07 PM

as we as seiners rarely chase fish downstream.


Good thing Unmack is not around to hear you say that... truely the most rigorous cardio workout there is (like you care at you age)... is downstream seining... a staple that a few (including Unmack) swear by and force you to do.

But joking aside, there is a very different catch when you seine downstream (running) faster than the flow (if you can go it without killing your self).
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin

#7 Guest_rjmtx_*

Guest_rjmtx_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 March 2013 - 04:30 PM

Huh? I just about always seine downstream unless I'm doing a riffle kick.

Very cool tank. I'd run from the corner out in both directions, too. The possibilities with that thing are endless.

#8 Guest_BenCantrell_*

Guest_BenCantrell_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 March 2013 - 04:42 PM

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. Very cool idea!

#9 Guest_Yeahson421_*

Guest_Yeahson421_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 March 2013 - 10:52 PM

Well, let me rephrase that, most SANE people don't seine downstream. Then again, most of us aren't sane. (No pun intended) However, I've done a decent share of downstream seining now that I think of it. I personally just feel that it may make more sense having them flow into it, but I suppose it's all about how you aquascape it. if there's a harsh drop from the stream sections to the pool it would be weird to have water flowing from the pool. However, if you slant it up, I suppose it would make perfect sense.

#10 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 March 2013 - 11:42 PM

Well I did a couple 3D redesigns using different demensions. I went with 18" width vs. 24" and that looks as though it would work the best. I would only have to add 6" to each of the backsides and I can still keep the front as shown above. I tried going the other direction but with an 18" width if I keep the legs the same length I only have an 8" wide center glass.

Yeahson, thank you for mentioning that. I had considered having water flow in from each end at one point which I liked alot because I could adjust the flow of each leg seperately and use a standpipe in the corner. I don't know why I had forgotten that. I don't recall any issues that I was worried about going that direction. I think that is the direction I may go....

I have attached a couple word documents with printscans of the tank I think I will go with since I couldn't attach the skb.file and I couldn't figure out how my friend converted it to JPEG.

Attached Files



#11 Guest_BenCantrell_*

Guest_BenCantrell_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 12:26 AM

When you're inside the word document, right click on the image and choose "save as picture".

#12 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 02:00 PM

Ben, I tried and it doesn't give me that option.

#13 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 03:07 PM

Here is my rendition of the tank with stand and hood. Granted it's simple and may change but this gives you an idea what I am going after.

Attached Files



#14 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 03:12 PM

I remember now why I decided not to go with water inputs at the end of both legs. Though I liked the idea of the sediment washing down into the center where I'll probably plant something like vals I was concerned about substrate doing the same. If anyone has an idea of how to keep the substrate from washing down (and still give it a natural look) I'm all ears.

#15 Guest_Yeahson421_*

Guest_Yeahson421_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 06:30 PM

Well, one thing you could do is do a 3D background for the tank and build in a weir at the end of the leg to hold in the substrate while still keeping it natural looking.

#16 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 11:26 PM

Just wanted to post to see if this would work. My friend showed me how to convert it to a png file.Attached File  6 inch added to back 18 inch bottom of Tank - Copy.png   11.62KB   0 downloads

#17 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 06 March 2013 - 11:33 PM

Well, one thing you could do is do a 3D background for the tank and build in a weir at the end of the leg to hold in the substrate while still keeping it natural looking.


I might consider that but that a 3D background would be a heck of alot more work. I do have a 4X8 sheet of 2" thick styrofoam to use. I think I'll see how the construction of the tank and stand go to see how motivated I am to do a 3D background. It would definitely be a nice touch.

#18 Guest_Yeahson421_*

Guest_Yeahson421_*
  • Guests

Posted 07 March 2013 - 07:50 AM

Well, I'd surely be willing to assist you, as I don't live TOO far away.

#19 Guest_Ken_*

Guest_Ken_*
  • Guests

Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:25 PM

Thanks for the offer. I will sure keep you in mind when I get this thins off the ground. :smile2: I am considering going to do some collecting in Northern Iowa above Osage (in Burr Oak Creek), eastward towards the Mississippi. If you'd be interested would be happy to include you.

#20 Guest_Yeahson421_*

Guest_Yeahson421_*
  • Guests

Posted 07 March 2013 - 08:12 PM

No problem! And That just may work!




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users