Interesting. It seems as though there was no temperature or photoperiod change, simply the blackwater additive that led to the spawning. So these guys will probably be easiest to breed in 10s, between spawning I can then keep them in the 40. Sounds like a good plan to me.
Breeding Options!
Started by
Guest_Yeahson421_*
, Feb 18 2014 09:12 PM
28 replies to this topic
#22
Guest_centrarchid_*
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Posted 19 February 2014 - 02:51 PM
Bantams are also interesting to propogate. In tank setting they are easier than bluespotted sunfish but still get you into mindset needed to tackle smaller larvae and fry.
#23
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 19 February 2014 - 07:45 PM
Are you supposed to use the divider method for Enneacanthus too?
#24
Guest_Erica Lyons_*
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Posted 19 February 2014 - 11:13 PM
Are you talking about in the spawning tank to separate the fry from the adults? Robert Rosen didn't use a divider. He completely removed the parents from the 10 gallon spawn tank.Are you supposed to use the divider method for Enneacanthus too?
#25
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Posted 19 February 2014 - 11:30 PM
No, a common method for nesting fish like Sunfish is to make a divider in the tank, leaving a 3-4" gap on one side so that the male can make his nest on one side while the female hides in the other. When she's ready, she can swim on over.
#26
Guest_Erica Lyons_*
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Posted 20 February 2014 - 12:03 AM
The breeding report has a set of instructions to follow. You can follow them word for word or try your own thing. It's up to you.
My personal opinion? It sounds easier to do it Robert Rosen's way. Stick the adults in the 10 gallon, pull them out when you see fry. No breeding separator, no hassle. He didn't mention murdered females (which is I assume why other species may benefit from the separator).
The thing I'm curious about is whether you have to catch juveniles like he said and wait a year for them to grow up, or if you could try adults and just not give them much overhead light. Would they be too shy to spawn? Would it work? If it were me taking this project on, I'd try both the adults and the juveniles (separate tanks). They're relatively small sized tanks, so it's not too much room to do both.
One day when I grow up, I want this sort of stand with a line of 10 gallon tanks on it:
http://www.badmanstr...p?topic=21504.0
*sighs wistfully*
And there would be a connection to the water line so water changes would be done by me turning a valve. And each rack would be plumbed together. *sighs*
If you had that, the moment you removed the adults from one 10 gallon and put them in another, they'd probably breed again. You could move them down the line, giving them a new home frequently and letting them spawn to their heart's content. Also there'd be lots of room to separate larger from smaller babies to prevent cannibalism.
My personal opinion? It sounds easier to do it Robert Rosen's way. Stick the adults in the 10 gallon, pull them out when you see fry. No breeding separator, no hassle. He didn't mention murdered females (which is I assume why other species may benefit from the separator).
The thing I'm curious about is whether you have to catch juveniles like he said and wait a year for them to grow up, or if you could try adults and just not give them much overhead light. Would they be too shy to spawn? Would it work? If it were me taking this project on, I'd try both the adults and the juveniles (separate tanks). They're relatively small sized tanks, so it's not too much room to do both.
One day when I grow up, I want this sort of stand with a line of 10 gallon tanks on it:
http://www.badmanstr...p?topic=21504.0
*sighs wistfully*
And there would be a connection to the water line so water changes would be done by me turning a valve. And each rack would be plumbed together. *sighs*
If you had that, the moment you removed the adults from one 10 gallon and put them in another, they'd probably breed again. You could move them down the line, giving them a new home frequently and letting them spawn to their heart's content. Also there'd be lots of room to separate larger from smaller babies to prevent cannibalism.
#27
Guest_Yeahson421_*
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Posted 20 February 2014 - 12:15 AM
That sounds ideal. I will be setting up some more 10 gallons shortly. Should I use plants? Or will that only complicate things?
#28
Michael Wolfe
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Posted 20 February 2014 - 08:06 AM
I didnt read the report, but from just keeping Enneacanthus (not breeding them), I would have to say yes, you want the plants. It will make the adults more comfortable. They can be rather shy fish at times and like to cruse through the foliage. And if you use a hornwort or other dense plant, it would give the fry a hiding place (from the adults and from each other as they grow).
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#29
Guest_Erica Lyons_*
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Posted 20 February 2014 - 09:28 AM
I agree with Michael about hiding spaces (the breeding report said they were highly cannibalistic).
Also, I've ammonia poisoned my fry when I try to raise them without plants.
Check out table 2: http://www.theaquari...ical_Filtration
Aquatic plants eat basically any concentration of ammonium (and by equilibrium, ammonia) in four hours.
Bacteria doesn't respond quickly enough: http://www.theaquari...cling_graph.png
so I have plants in fry tanks.
Also, I've ammonia poisoned my fry when I try to raise them without plants.
Check out table 2: http://www.theaquari...ical_Filtration
Aquatic plants eat basically any concentration of ammonium (and by equilibrium, ammonia) in four hours.
Bacteria doesn't respond quickly enough: http://www.theaquari...cling_graph.png
so I have plants in fry tanks.
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