Removing insects and other "pests" from collected hornwort.
Posted 17 May 2014 - 07:31 AM
Posted 17 May 2014 - 07:37 AM
Jeremy, one of the people in my local fish club, swears by H2O2 dips. He was talking about it in the context of de-algaefying anubias when he said, "go to the store & get a quart of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) for $0.88 or less, take the anubias out of the tank, scrub them with a dish scrub pad (non scratch pad) to remove as much of the BBA tufts as you can, then soak them in a bowl with the H2O2 for 5min or so (they will fizz up); put it back in the tank and wait; after a couple days the BBA will turn grey (sometimes turns pinkish red and sometimes w/in a few hours); that means the BBA is dying and fish will start pecking at it too; problem solved"
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:54 PM
Posted 17 May 2014 - 06:16 PM
The point isn't to kill them, the point is to make them let go of the plant. They're going to try to abandon ship and evacuate, leaving the pest in the salt water dip bucket and the plant free and ready to go into your tank .
I can see the salt working well for most things, but what about things like water beetles? seems like they would be too tough for it.
Posted 17 May 2014 - 07:28 PM
Posted 17 May 2014 - 09:10 PM
Posted 17 May 2014 - 09:42 PM
Posted 18 May 2014 - 07:21 AM
Posted 18 May 2014 - 09:30 AM
Posted 18 May 2014 - 02:43 PM
Posted 18 May 2014 - 02:59 PM
Nope, my hydra went from full ocean seawater to full 0 DH tapwater and survived just fine.
The salt should kill off things like hydra
Here they are in my freshwater, alive and eating after the transition to full fresh. I literally just drained the tank completely of saltwater, left it dry for a little while, and filled with freshwater and filled and drained a few times to remove residual salt.
And again you're missing the point: Salt dips don't kill anything. They make them let go. That's why the overnight plan has built into itself its own failing: when the pest eqilibrates it will grab on again. A salt dip shocks them, causes them to release and float away. You remove the plant and the pest is left in the bucket. If you leave the plant in the bucket it will likely grab on again, unless you truly do achieve the death of the pest. But like I mentioned with my half hour brine dip killing most of the plants that endured it: plants need to survive the treatment, too. A short dip or drying to make the pest let go is the safest way to not kill the plant. The pest won't be dead, either, but once it's separate from the plant you've achieved your goal of pest free plants.
For hydra I recommend fenbendazole. It's easily purchased online or at pet stores under the brand name Panacur. With those beasties your goal for eradication is indeed to kill the whole population. They can come in on and survive on glass, sand, rocks, etc and aren't merely a plant problem, so you'll need to treat the whole tank for days to make sure they're dead once you know they're what you have.
That's why all this this dip or dry advice is really only worth, no pun, a grain of salt. Which treatment depends on which pest. I hear potassium permanganate and bleach are what the people who routinely bring plants in the from the field use, but I've never tried them myself. I don't know if Net Soak is safe for plants or not.
Posted 18 May 2014 - 04:17 PM
Posted 18 May 2014 - 04:26 PM
A day? Have you read anything I've written? A five minute dip with shocking solution (high salinity, H2O2, 1/20 dilution bleach, potassium permanganate) will make insects let go. Ditto a five minute dry on nets so they fall through the mesh. You remove the plants after five minutes to save the plants' lives. Then whatever beasties get through the dip you target in a species specific manner and kill, like fenbendazole for the hydras. None of this day long soak stuff. My plants didn't even survive half an hour in brine. I don't want to see your hornwort after a single one day dip, let alone a months' worth of a series of day long dips. I think I'm done commenting on this post, since you're clearly ignoring me.
I just could see a month worth of soaking in tubs for a day or so, pulling the hornwort out, then moving it to a new tub. Hopefully less critters with each soak... I have the room, and tubs to do something like this.
Posted 18 May 2014 - 04:56 PM
Posted 18 May 2014 - 08:49 PM
I bet 2-3 hours in the tank with the predatory fish would solve your problem and also get your fish some good food.
Posted 19 May 2014 - 08:37 AM
Posted 10 June 2014 - 07:51 PM
Edited by Auban, 10 June 2014 - 07:51 PM.
Posted 10 June 2014 - 08:02 PM
Posted 13 June 2014 - 05:47 AM
My hornwort grows fast and bushy. You could clean a smaller amount then light the heck out of it and grow your own pest free.
Most of you know how I feel about using chemicals and salt, especially where it can be avoided. I have collected most of my plants from the wild for decades. While I have never kept shrimp, I've bred lots of fish with tiny fry amidst my wild collected plants. Aside from picking out the occasional bug that got missed, I have never had a problem.
I did once corrupt a tank of blackbanded sunfish fry with hydra adding wild daphnia from a questionable swamp. While the hydra didn't prey on the fry, I could see they were irritating them by stinging them when they touched. I suppose various chemicals or salt may have helped, I merely siphoned out the fry into a new, clean tank.
Obviously you don't want to do that in your big tank, but if you don't get your plants in questionable swamps, and hang them over a bucket, you should be good without any thing else.
PS Another thing I just thought of; before adding the shrimp, put in a few pumpkinseeds or similar. They'll eat the bugs and the snails. Then net them out and add shrimp.
Posted 13 June 2014 - 08:28 AM
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