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Maturing age...


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#1 Guest_fishlvr_*

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 04:44 PM

I read in an article that bantams are mature by 5-7 months of age. Do all sunfish mature this fast, or just bantams because of their small size? I thought it took 12-18 months for Lepomis sunfish to mature.

Also, what is the maximum size for bantams? I've read in some places it was 3" and in others up to 6".

#2 Guest_smbass_*

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 05:40 PM

It seems to vary depending on maximum size of the species, smaller species mature faster than larger ones, although I think if you fed them enough you could get any Lepomis to matureity in less than a year. As far as the maximum size of Bantams, I would say it is somewhere inbetween 3 and 6 inches. Probably closer to 4.5-5inches, and they mature at about 3 inches maybe a little less.

#3 Guest_Irate Mormon_*

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 05:45 PM

Brian, I like your signature with the large, colorful letters! It would be better if you appended a long long list of fish you have for sale. :twisted: In large, colorful letters.

#4 Guest_centrarchid_*

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 06:01 PM

I read in an article that bantams are mature by 5-7 months of age. Do all sunfish mature this fast, or just bantams because of their small size? I thought it took 12-18 months for Lepomis sunfish to mature.

Also, what is the maximum size for bantams? I've read in some places it was 3" and in others up to 6".


Here is my slant. Most age at first reproduction based on wild populations were nutritional, seasonal and social facters preventing genetic potential for early maturation from being realized. I feel age is not that important. I can consistently get life cycle closure with northern bluegill and green sunfishes easily in less than 120 days from conception. I have had a few of the same and tank reared red spotted sunfish do it in as little as 90 days. I think it could be done in just over 60 days if a shortened time required for first reproduction desired. Size must be minimum for breeding (these guys about 2 inches), good fat reserves a must, photoperiod and temperature conditions appropriate (blast them with light), and they must be at or near top of pecking order. The last point is extremely important!

I have had a bantam up to 4.5" that was still a breeder but never seen such a beast in nature. Who authored the bantam paper?

#5 Guest_fishlvr_*

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 08:35 PM

It was the one you sent me(quite a while back). I'm guessing you wrote it? :-D

#6 Guest_fishlvr_*

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Posted 13 December 2007 - 05:23 PM

What did you feed them to get them to grow fast enough to breed by 120 days old?!

#7 Guest_centrarchid_*

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 09:13 AM

What did you feed them to get them to grow fast enough to breed by 120 days old?!


The "what" is probably not as important as the "how".

As for the "what" I seldom have time to work with live foods for young fish beyond the larval stage. Therefore I use pelleted diets sized appropriately for fry (3/4" to 1 1/4") and fingerlings (1 1/4" to about 3"). Several diets seem to get the job done. The brands I know work include INVE, Bio-Oregon, Proton and Bio-Kiowa. The latter is hard to get. With bluegill Bio-Oregon works best. Testing diets on redear now. The best diets appear to have been formulated for culture of marine fishes that undergo metamorphosis. Diets formulated for trout and salmon have not worked as well for my crew so I recommend not using those. A diet formulated for cichlids and readily purchased from pet stores is Bio-Blend. Make sure it is fresh and not allowed to get too warm.

The how is feeding frequently. Nearly hourly. We have been hand-feeding but that not likely practical for you. To get around labor problems we have been using belt feeders but they are $130 each. The little automatic feeders purchased from pet stores can also get the job done. Most sunfishes (excluding the black basses) are optimally designed for consuming small meals around the clock. Feed them frequently but never quite to satiation. Keeps gut working but less likely to degrade water quality.

Frequent water changes (50% / week) and large numbers of fish to keep social problems in check also important.




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