Cross Country Transport
#1 Guest_Rtifs_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 10:24 AM
6” Pumpkinseed
1.25” Bluespotted sunfish
2 Flagfish
2 Rosy Reds
2 Cory Cats
1 Female Guppy
6 Guppy Fry
Several invertebrates (apple snails, grass shrimp)
I’ve heard about using a cooler to hold the fish, but would a bait bucket work better for the pumpkinseed (to keep her from harming the other fish)? Also, how do I prevent excessive buildup of ammonia, C02, and ensure proper O2 levels in the transport container? Another concern is hostility of the fish under stress, so I plan to separate them. I’ve heard that there are breathable bags for transporting them, but how reliable are they, and where do I get them?
I’ve still got a few weeks to get everything set, including prepositioning a 75 gal Walstad style tank at the destination. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, especially for the natives as they are my prize fish. Thanks!
#2 Guest_gerald_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 10:45 AM
I need some advice on moving my fish across country. I’ll be moving soon from Maryland to Burlington Mass, and need advice on how to transport the fish. Google maps says it’s about 8 hrs, but actual experience shows that the NYC area adds about 3-4 hrs to the trip regardless of the time of day (total trip about 11-12hrs). My current inventory is:
6” Pumpkinseed
1.25” Bluespotted sunfish
2 Flagfish
2 Rosy Reds
2 Cory Cats
1 Female Guppy
6 Guppy Fry
Several invertebrates (apple snails, grass shrimp)
I’ve heard about using a cooler to hold the fish, but would a bait bucket work better for the pumpkinseed (to keep her from harming the other fish)? Also, how do I prevent excessive buildup of ammonia, C02, and ensure proper O2 levels in the transport container? Another concern is hostility of the fish under stress, so I plan to separate them. I’ve heard that there are breathable bags for transporting them, but how reliable are they, and where do I get them?
I’ve still got a few weeks to get everything set, including prepositioning a 75 gal Walstad style tank at the destination. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, especially for the natives as they are my prize fish. Thanks!
#3 Guest_Newt_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:00 AM
#4 Guest_Rtifs_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:22 PM
And thanks for the reminder to not feed them for a few days!
#5 Guest_jblaylock_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:34 PM
Also, you may want to put in some leaves/driftwood/rocks. This gives the fish places that they feel like they are hiding in, less stress when they feel secure. However, remember the dangers of rocks/wood rolling and bouncing in the container.
#6 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:04 PM
#7 Guest_keepnatives_*
Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:22 PM
#8 Guest_BTDarters_*
Posted 21 October 2009 - 03:09 AM
http://www.novalek.c..._bags/index.htm
and
http://www.novalek.c...thing_bags.html
I'd recommend using the 7.5" x 12" (Item#50102) Breather Bags. When you're ready to move the fish, fill the bags with clean, dechlorinated/dechloraminated tap water that is the same temperature as that the fish came out of. With the numbers of fish you listed, you can put all fish of each species in their own bag. Add a water conditioner/stress relieving tablet to each bag. "Bag Buddies" by Jungle Labs work well. Double-bag the fish, but be sure that you don't get any moisture between the bags because Breather Bags don't "breathe" when there's water on both sides of the bag. When you've got all of the fish bagged, put them in a cooler with a vent-hole for air circulation. Be sure to pack other material around the bags that will allow the movement of air in the container. Quarter-inch thick open-cell foam works well, if you can come across it. If you can't, some people use newspaper or styrofoam peanuts to pack around the bags. If you use peanuts, be sure to get the ones that don't degrade when they come in contact with water, for obvious reasons. Now your fish are ready for transport!
The reason that I said earlier that you might not want to put the large fish in a bag is due to its size. If you bought bags of the size 11.5" x 19" (Item#50101), you could put the large fish in its own bag, though.
So, if you use Breather Bags, some advantages are:
- No sloshing water.
- No battery-operated pumps to keep an eye on.
- No running out of batteries if it's a long trip.
- If for some reason you got laid-over overnight, your fish would still be fine.
- No objects bumping-around in buckets.
Just some things to think about.
Brian
#9 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 21 October 2009 - 05:56 AM
Edited by centrarchid, 21 October 2009 - 05:59 AM.
#10 Guest_catfish_hunter_*
Posted 21 October 2009 - 09:56 AM
#11 Guest_Rtifs_*
Posted 21 October 2009 - 10:15 AM
#12 Guest_schambers_*
Posted 21 October 2009 - 10:36 PM
#13 Guest_BTDarters_*
Posted 22 October 2009 - 02:19 AM
http://www.novalek.c..._bags/index.htm
and
http://www.novalek.c...thing_bags.html
The most important thing to remember about Breather Bags is that they don't "breathe" when there's water on both sides of the bag. So, if you want to float the Breather Bags with the fish in the new tanks to acclimate them, make sure you've got an airstone in the bag to circulate the water. Otherwise, you can put the fish and bag water in a bucket and do the "drip method". I'll see if I can find a post on the forum about the "drip method" for those who don't know what that is. Toodles!
Brian
#14 Guest_Rtifs_*
Posted 22 October 2009 - 10:04 AM
The most important thing to remember about Breather Bags is that they don't "breathe" when there's water on both sides of the bag. So, if you want to float the Breather Bags with the fish in the new tanks to acclimate them, make sure you've got an airstone in the bag to circulate the water. Otherwise, you can put the fish and bag water in a bucket and do the "drip method".
Ok this was something I was wondering about. I’ll probably use the drip method to acclimate them. I’m assuming the purpose of double bagging them is to have a backup in case their bag is punctured or otherwise damaged en-route. Should I wipe the bag down to ensure it’s dry before inserting it into the second bag? Is there a better way to dry it?
#15 Guest_nativeplanter_*
Posted 22 October 2009 - 11:31 PM
Regarding hostility and using stress-reducing habitat enhancers (e.g. driftwood), remember that once you close the lid to the container, it will be dark. With little fishy brains, lights are out; no-one's home. You don't list any nocturnal fish in your group. Maybe keep the grass shrimp separate from the smaller fish and fry. The mops Mike suggested could be a nice touch to provide something soft to cushion them, but really, you aren't going off-road here, are you? The bulk of the sloshing will be just back and forth so long as you don't drive like a maniac.
Like Gerald and Nathan said, reduce ammonia stress by putting some of the old filter media in the containers and stop feeding the fish a couple days before. I never,ever put plants into the containers. They respire quite a bit in the dark. On the same line, don't add leaves or other organic matter that will start to break down (they will both use O2 and release nitrogen). Once you get to your destination, just keep up with frequent water changes until you get the new tanks set up.
Chip and Dustin taught me to add a handful of aquarium salt to each container to ward of bacterial infections. I don't have any data, but I like to think the peroxide helps with that as well.
The breather bags are an equally valid idea. They will also prevent stress from sloshing around. They can be nicely packed in cardboard wine boxes with lots of crumpled newspaper to separate them. I do something a little less complicated than drip acclimation or getting an air stone to stay in the bag: I leave them in the same room near the new water (without a heater) for a few hours while they get to the same temperature. Then I open each bag into a small container, and add new water in the amount of, oh, maybe 1/3 of the volume of bagged water (so, if you had 1 cup of bagged water, you would add 1/3 cup of the new water). Let sit for an hour, and repeat a couple times. I then net the fish out and put it in the new tank.
Aside from that, the most important thing is to make sure you put an airstone in the containers when you get to your new destination, and keep up with the water changes until you have time to set up their new home. Oh, and watch for jumpers.
I moved from Georgia to Virginia almost 3 years ago, and that was a 10+ hour drive. Everything went fine doing the above. The only problems I had were from not changing out enough water in the next week before I got the new tanks set up.
Oh - and I've done the drive to Boston from here a few times. My advice regarding the route and travel time is:
1) Get of I95 after Newark and take the New Jersey Turnpike around Philadelphia.
2) Regarding New York is DO NOT go over the George Washington Bridge; take the Tappan Zee Bridge instead. Adds miles, but saves a LOT of time.
3) So long as you can fit under the bridges, take the Merritt Parkway through Connecticut instead of I95, then go up I91 and 84 to the Mass Pike. I95 can be a nightmare in Connecticut. But be careful if you are driving a moving truck. The Merritt Parkway is rather attractive, but there are some low bridges.
Good luck with your move. Try to maintain your sanity!
#16 Guest_rickwrench_*
Posted 23 October 2009 - 01:44 AM
An medium sized ice chest (10 gal).
A battery powered aerator/air stone.
Zeolite.
Drill a hole in the chest lid big enough for the airstone to drop through.
Two fresh D batteries in your bait bucket aerator (WalMart, etc).
6" of water.
Small scoop of zeolite.
This formula has been good for 10+ days with a dozen 2" sunfish for me, no losses.
I'd say for only one day of travel, you could probably skip the zeolite.
And, don't feed your fish the day before you travel.
Rick
#17 Guest_gerald_*
Posted 23 October 2009 - 01:25 PM
Breathing Bags do need AIR SPACE between them -- styrofoam packing peanuts are good.
Also beware of hot spots on the car floor/trunk/bed above the exhaust pipe. A friend of mine once overheated a box of fish that way - didnt realize the hot spot in the trunk. Feel around after the car has been running awhile.
I did read the links. Thanks for the info!
Ok this was something I was wondering about. I’ll probably use the drip method to acclimate them. I’m assuming the purpose of double bagging them is to have a backup in case their bag is punctured or otherwise damaged en-route. Should I wipe the bag down to ensure it’s dry before inserting it into the second bag? Is there a better way to dry it?
#18 Guest_BTDarters_*
Posted 28 October 2009 - 07:41 AM
So Brian - What's the point of double-bagging Breathing Bags? ... Have you ever had the inner bag leak and the fish survive?
For me, the point of double-bagging the fish is to prevent a bag from leaking into the container and damaging the container. However, I do use a "breathing" liner in all of my containers now, so double-bagging may be something I won't have to do now.
To answer your second question, I've never had the inner bag leak and the fish survive. However, in the hundreds of fish I've shipped in breather bags, I've only once ever had the inner bag fail.
Brian
#19 Guest_Rtifs_*
Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:57 AM
I also got the 75 gal setup. I still need to add more plants, but it should be off to a good start. I’m much more comfortable with the whole idea of moving the fish now. And if the PS doesn’t make it, I can console myself with a couple of fat fillets!
#20 Guest_FirstChAoS_*
Posted 03 November 2009 - 12:21 PM
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