Longear Spawn Questions
#1 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 06 April 2010 - 09:29 AM
#2 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 06 April 2010 - 03:14 PM
Hatch about 36 hours.
Swim up / exodus 6 to 10 days later, depending on temperature and genetic background of parents.
If wanting to collect some young, then siphon them out, avoid using a net. They should be easy to see.
#3 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 07 April 2010 - 10:58 AM
I fear there are no offspring as I do not see any larvae anywhere. While the female was laying her eggs, the male was feeding on them as he saw them. There were some instances when he left the nest in pursuit of other fish that ventured too near that some of the eggs escaped his notice and floated to the side (none adhered to any rocks in the nest.) As he quickly returned to his duty, he'd continue circling with the female, watching for intruders and gobbling all eggs he found. I wanted to collect the eggs, but didn't want to risk disruption of the process. By the time it all ended, the male was fiercly protecting the nest and feeding on the rest of the eggs he could find. I had hoped that some of the stray eggs would hatch and the fry swim for cover to develop, but I'm quickly giving up hope since I see none present. If any did survive, I'm guessing that any of the other longears in the tank would make a meal of them.
Is there a good rule of thumb to follow for collecting the eggs without intruding and totally shutting down the activity? I can't remove any of the adults, so removing the eggs to develop is my only option at this time. I have a hang-on-the-side breeder container. Can eggs be placed into this contraption with any hope of hatching?
Here are a few photos of the nest and activity. (Forgive the quality. They are screencaps from the video I made with my phone.)
#4 Guest_gerald_*
Posted 07 April 2010 - 11:23 AM
#5 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 07 April 2010 - 01:18 PM
#6 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 07 April 2010 - 04:56 PM
Do as Gerald says. especially if male is still defending site. Male eating eggs is pretty unusual unless he his in poor condition.
Also by this time, eggs will have hatched and you will have pro-larvae. They may be strong enough to avoid a weak siphon so try using a 3/8" inside diameter.
#7 Guest_gerald_*
Posted 08 April 2010 - 01:37 PM
with fight the fi
Also by this time, eggs will have hatched and you will have pro-larvae. They may be strong enough to avoid a weak siphon so try using a 3/8" inside diameter.
#8 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 08 April 2010 - 03:53 PM
#9 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 08 April 2010 - 08:47 PM
#10 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 09 April 2010 - 09:49 AM
#11 Guest_gerald_*
Posted 09 April 2010 - 09:59 AM
#12 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 15 April 2010 - 12:01 PM
I'm hoping to see many more in the main tank that were not removed initially. Here's a pic.
#13 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 15 April 2010 - 03:23 PM
Your guys are looking good. The developmental stage you have for 8 days I call larva. It can feed itself but still has not gone through metamorphosis.
#14 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 21 April 2010 - 04:26 PM
Also, I'm concerned they're not eating. I'm trying finely crushed flake, a "first bites" tropical gritty texture food and recently I gave them 2 frozen brine shrimp. They still look as if they've never eaten. Any suggestions?
#15 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 23 April 2010 - 12:28 PM
You observations of appearently no food intake is not good. Your fish are likely suffering from I call the dwindles which can be caused by low quality food, poor feeding regmine or water quality. You are likely going to loose whole brood. Could you briefly explain your feeding technique and water quality managment method. I would also recommend trying to start a new brood. Survivors of poor culture conditions during first few days after swim up will be slow growers thereafter and may have other problems.
#16 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 26 April 2010 - 09:42 AM
On the bright side, the same two fish spawned again yesterday afternoon! I plan to "let it be" since I am in the dark about feeding larvae. There's plenty of cover for them and hopefully the nourishment they need.
I'm willing to try again if anyone has advice on providing food for larvae. Otherwise I will not intervene.
#17 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 26 April 2010 - 07:02 PM
If you can purchase brine shrimp cysts for about $35 / can, then try the following. Setup up two brine shrimp hatchers (I can provide details for a low cost system if needed). Arm and harvest one in AM before you go to work and do the same for other approximately 12 hours later which will give you two fresh hatches per day. Feed once in morning and twice in afternoon. Two weeks and fish should be ready to train to pellets. Are you game?
#18 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 27 April 2010 - 04:25 PM
Alternatively, what do you think the percentage for survival will be for any hatchlings left on their own in a 30 gal planted, with structures containing 5 fish from 3" to 5" in size?
#19 Guest_centrarchid_*
Posted 28 April 2010 - 07:07 AM
In regards to survival approximately zero. Your young longear do not have the innate behavioral package needed to use vegetation as cover from larger sunfishes. The only fish you can trust with them is their father which you can do much longer than what occurs in nature. Young (larval) longear from most populations I have bred seem to avoid vegetation but are not pelagic. They seem to associate with bottom in relatively open water and will push up into shallows (~ 6")to hange with similar sized minnow fry. Not all longear populations same on this. We do occasionally get longear larvae to survive and grow in our biofilter. Bluegill, redear, green, and pumpkinseed sunfishes can not do so in same system.
#20 Guest_mdwalt1_*
Posted 28 April 2010 - 09:55 AM
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