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Josh Blaylock's 125 gallon stream tank. Build and updates.

Started by Guest_jblaylock_* , Nov 07 2010 04:51 PM

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#1 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 04:51 PM

I aquired this 125 a couple weeks ago. I didn't have a chance to take original photos of the tank.

Previous owner spray painted the bank of the tank.
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The stand that came with it was a wood plank style stand. No offense to anyone that has one, but I didn't like the planks that much so I paneled the front and sides with luan plywood and corner trim. I also wanted a little more support so I braced it up with 2x4s. I'm no carpenter, but did the best I could. I think it will hold the weight....the stand held it before the braces. I'm not done with the stand, I'm going to add 2x6s around the bottom to raise the tank another 2in higher and spread the weight.

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Again, I'm no carpenter. This is my first ever attempt to do miter cuts and/or build a cabinet door.
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I plan on building a canopy also, using this design
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Filtering the tank will be these. All three of these are currently running on my 75gl right now. I just hooked up the Fluval 405 yesterday so it will be ready once the tank gets ready to go. I have to say, watching craigslist is worth it. I got the Fluval 404 & 405 for less than 100, I had to replace a few litte things (impeller, valves, etc..) but they came with media and everything.
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I plan on either purchasing or building a 3D background.
I may purchase this one. Do you all think it looks natural?
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I would like to build one like this....but I'm really not artistic at all. This is a real trout stream, but I like the rock wall.
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I'm not sure of the output of my filters, but do you think all three of those with using the right spray-bar would create enough current to NOT have any powerheads? I could position all three outputs on the end of the tank, but I'm not sure if they would create enough current.

Stay tuned, I'll be posting more pics as the build progresses.

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#2 Guest_panfisherteen_*

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 06:54 PM

the 3d one looks pretty natural imo. the aquariums sounds very interesting. what do you plan on putting in it?

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#3 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 07:03 PM

The last pic is natural, it is a trout stream pic I found. I plan on transferring my current stock of shiners/darters to this tank. I successfully killed 4 fish overnight via the new filter install. I setup the fluval 405 with an open ended pipe for an intake.....mistake. The filter stopped working and the tube was clogged. Found a darter, madtom, and 2 oto algae eaters.

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#4 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 08:07 PM

I successfully killed 4 fish overnight via the new filter install. I setup the fluval 405 with an open ended pipe for an intake.....mistake. The filter stopped working and the tube was clogged. Found a darter, madtom, and 2 oto algae eaters.

*cringes* Ouch. That's why I sew on custom covers over all of my filter intake tube ends. A little bit of fiberglass screen mesh (it's $5 a roll at Home Depot and is ridiculously handy around the house) and some thread, and the fish are safe. And because the holes in the screen are millimeters wide, they stop large particles from entering the tube, adding a mechanical filtration layer.
Here's a link to the product I bought: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053

I suggest styrofoam coated in liquid rock as your background instead of solid rock. It weighs less to coat styrofoam in concrete and then stipple it than it does to use rock the whole way.
Here's a video that explains how to do it:

You may choose to stipple it, something that video doesn't show. (take the paint brush and jab at the concrete, adding texture to it. It looks like the nooks and crannies on an English muffin when you're done).

And here's someone I think did an awesome job:

Edited by EricaWieser, 07 November 2010 - 08:12 PM.

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#5 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 08:41 PM

*cringes* Ouch. That's why I sew on custom covers over all of my filter intake tube ends. A little bit of fiberglass screen mesh (it's $5 a roll at Home Depot and is ridiculously handy around the house) and some thread, and the fish are safe. And because the holes in the screen are millimeters wide, they stop large particles from entering the tube, adding a mechanical filtration layer.
Here's a link to the product I bought: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053

I suggest styrofoam coated in liquid rock as your background instead of solid rock. It weighs less to coat styrofoam in concrete and then stipple it than it does to use rock the whole way.

I have since covered the hold with some coarse filter pad. I'm honestly in dis-belief that I actually did not cover that tube end.

For the background, I would never never never do a solid rock. I have completed 2 smaller DIY styrofoam backgrounds for my 10gal. I didn't really like the final product. The first pic was a background by Designs by Nature. They are made with high density polyurethane industrial foam. They have a lot of backgrounds but are kinda pricey. The 2nd design would be one I would try to replicate with stryofoam. I may give that a shot before I shell out 300+ for a professional background.

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#6 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 09:00 AM

My big question right now is this: Will the three returns on my filters provide enough flow for this long of a tank, or will I still need a couple powerheads? I plan on using the stock eheim spray bar and then using the customflo kit from pentair for the other 2 returns. I will line all 3 up on the end of the tank. I'm thinking I will still need a couple powerheads

Here is the Customflo Kit. You can use this in many ways and arrange the tubes how you want them.
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#7 Guest_davidjh2_*

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 10:16 AM

If you look on Ebay you can find some really really nice 3d backgrounds. They are however very expensive for the larger tanks. For my 75 gallon I'd be paying over a hundred dollars. I did buy one for my 10 gallon which should be arriving today or tomorrow. You can also make a 3d background there are some very detailed diy websites if you google 3d aquarium backgrounds but being extremely non artistic I'm not even going to try it.

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#8 Guest_scottefontay_*

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 10:43 AM

link below is a pretty good DIY for fake rocks. all the wood in the pic is fake as well - he melts pvc pipe and coats it with grout, bascially the same process as the rocks.

http://glasstropics....rtificial-rocks

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#9 Guest_Newt_*

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 11:50 AM

If you decide you need more flow, check out the propeller mod kit for the maxi-jet 1200. The output is comparable to the bigger Koralia or Tunze powerheads for a fraction of the price. I have one in my eight foot tank, and it creates a current the full length of the tank. The only issue would be very small fish poking their little heads in between the guard bars.

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#10 Guest_schambers_*

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 07:54 PM

Very nice tank! Can you set up the filters and see if the flow is enough? In my opinion, it would be hard to have too much flow in a tank that size. Could you set up the plumbing to allow you to add a pump or powerhead later if you need to?

The cabinet door looks great! If you have any joints that you feel are less than perfect, you can use wood putty to fill them. They make it to be painted or stained. Just check the package before you buy it. My carpenter Dad makes me things sometimes, and I get a tube to camouflage the nail holes before staining the piece. You can't see them at all afterwards.

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#11 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:00 AM

The cabinet door looks great! If you have any joints that you feel are less than perfect, you can use wood putty to fill them. They make it to be painted or stained. Just check the package before you buy it. My carpenter Dad makes me things sometimes, and I get a tube to camouflage the nail holes before staining the piece. You can't see them at all afterwards.

Thanks, but I don't think it looks that good. It's hard to tell from the pic, but the door is only about 10.5in across. With that larger molding for the frame, 4 of those together doesn't look right. Maybe if I had a smaller frame, it would be ok. I built another style door on Saturday, I didn't like it either. I'm now looking into a local woodworker making me 4 solid wood doors. If the price is right, I may see about him making the canopy. I just don't have those carpenter skilss.

I have been a little un-motivated to work on this due to a recent injury, but I did manage to get a couple coats of paint on it over the weekend. I also ordered the CustomFlo system from amazon.

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#12 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 04:38 PM

Ok, so I setup the Fluval 405 a couple weeks ago and the cannister filter keeps getting air in it. A few times an hour the filter will make noise and spit out air bubbles. There is NO water leaking anywhere on the outside of the filter or hoses. All connection points for the intake/output are underwater. I can't figure out where all the air is coming from. The other 2 filters do not do this at all.

Any ideas?

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#13 Guest_GreenRiverKY_*

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 10:34 PM

Ok, so I setup the Fluval 405 a couple weeks ago and the cannister filter keeps getting air in it. A few times an hour the filter will make noise and spit out air bubbles. There is NO water leaking anywhere on the outside of the filter or hoses. All connection points for the intake/output are underwater. I can't figure out where all the air is coming from. The other 2 filters do not do this at all.

Any ideas?

I had this happen on a 304 a while back. I don't know if it will work in your case but I lubricated the main seal with a light coat petroleum jelly and it stopped. Push down firmly on the pump to seat it well before latching it down. I didn't have any water leaking but somehow air was getting sucked through that seal.

Since your filter has been set up for a while it should have already purged all of its air. The only other possibility (since your other filters aren't doing burping) is a bad seal somewhere.

Edit: another thing to check for is a twisted o-ring/gasket on the filter head. Make sure it's undamaged and riding in the groove correctly without any twists. This happened to me when I first set up out of the box.

Let's see some pictures of the progress!

Edited by GreenRiverKY, 20 November 2010 - 10:55 PM.

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#14 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 21 November 2010 - 03:51 PM

I started building the canopy this weekend. I've decided that much more skill is involved with woodworking than I thought. I am, however, satisfied with the canopy as it is now. It was actually fairly easy to do. I only need one more piece for the top. The opening will be covered by one solid board that will be hinged on the back piece. As you can see, the rear is open and not boxed in allowing heat/gas transfer and running tubes, airlines, etc... I am planning on covering the rear with a plastic mesh once I move toward completion. I will be installing 2 florescent fixtures on this, one on the rear, and one on the hinged lid. I have somebody making the cabinet doors for the stand, I hope to have them this week.

Driftwood may or may not be used
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Looking inside.
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#15 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 01:37 PM

Anybody know if somebody makes a hinge I can use that will stop the canopy lid from opening all the way? On my 75gal, The hood will open all the way up and hit the wall behind it. I have to lay a towel across the lid when I open it. I would like to find a hinge that will stop the lid when opened like 100 degrees or so. I thought about experimenting with gas struts, but that may make one handed operation too hard.

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#16 Michael Wolfe

Board of Directors

North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage

Posted 23 November 2010 - 02:24 PM

Anybody know if somebody makes a hinge I can use that will stop the canopy lid from opening all the way? On my 75gal, The hood will open all the way up and hit the wall behind it. I have to lay a towel across the lid when I open it. I would like to find a hinge that will stop the lid when opened like 100 degrees or so. I thought about experimenting with gas struts, but that may make one handed operation too hard.

I would go with something easier, like a door stop kind of thing... a triangle or trapazoid of wood, screwed to the part of the top that doesnt move (actually two, on on the right and one on the left side). Wouldnt have to be too big or stick up too high if all you are holding is the weight of the top... and would be an easy retrofit... and still allow one handed operation. Too bad we cant sketch here...

Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin

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#17 Michael Wolfe

Board of Directors

North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage

Posted 23 November 2010 - 02:28 PM

What about this... the blue part would be a simple wood block and the orange is the screw that would hold it in... could be countersunk in place to keep it all looking nice...???

Attached Files

Canopy Build 2-2.jpg 45.39KB 3 downloads

Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin

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#18 Guest_GreenRiverKY_*

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 05:44 PM

You just need a lid stay of some sort, search for "chest hinges" or "safety hinges". They are usually spring loaded so they don't crash down and only allow the lid to open to about 95 degrees.

I have used these before and would be perfect for your application but they are a little pricey:

chest hinge and lid support

If you must go to a big box store, Lowes has the best selection of cabinet hardware by a long shot. Hope that helps.

Edited by GreenRiverKY, 23 November 2010 - 05:45 PM.

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#19 Guest_GreenRiverKY_*

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 05:55 PM

I just thought of an easy and free solution. Take a 5" section of nylon strap from an old bag and screw one end to the underside of the fixed portion of you hood. Open your hinged lid as wide as you want it to go and screw the other end of the strap to it. You could do two of them on the edges of the lid for extra strength since you will have the added weight of lights on it. Use pan head screws and washers.

Edited by GreenRiverKY, 23 November 2010 - 05:57 PM.

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#20 Guest_jblaylock_*

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Posted 23 November 2010 - 08:22 PM

All are really good ideas. I really like those hinges in that link. They would do the job and mount inside the canopy and would provide a cleaner look, but $23 a pair is pricey. The wood stop would work well, but I'm not sure I can make a decent looking piece of wood to stick to the top, lol.

BTW, I fixed the air leak. I guess I should have done it one step at a time, but I siliconed the air intake tube and added the PJ to the main gasket. One of those was the solution....going on 4 hours and no air bubbles.