Good afternoon,
I am a 3rd grade teacher in south central Pennsylvania (outside of Harrisburg) and I "inherited" the responsibility of our school aquarium when my principal retired. I am completely new to aquariums and native fish, but I am an avid outdoorsman and incorporate environmental education whenever possible. Due to my lack of experience, please forgive any ignorance in this, or following, posts. I am doing a lot of research for the coming year, but I have discovered that native fish keeping is a whole new world!
The tank that I will be keeping is 150 gallons, and currently holds an assortment of salt water fish. The fish are going to new homes this week, and I can begin the process of transitioning the tank to freshwater. My goal is to have the tank serve as many educational opportunities as possible, with as little maintenance work (small wishes, I know). Some opportunities that I already have in mind will be: basic fish anatomy (names of fins and things), schooling behavior, environmental interactions, feeding behavior, water testing, and maintenance. Making all of these into writing/project based learning opportunities is my goal.
Where I need help is what to put into the tank. I know that this is an extremely open ended question, and I wish that I could narrow it down but unfortunately at this point I simply do not have the knowledge to do so. I am not opposed to a planted tank, but I'm not sure how much work that would entail. I live near several lively bodies of water and I have thought about collecting on my own, so any suggestions on these processes would be greatly appreciated.
Information that you may need, that I currently can't provide (sorry, I'll try to learn more about the tank): filter size/type, dimensions, available budget.
I sincerely appreciate all of your help and support as my students and I embark on this adventure!
-Mr. Pierce
Help! 150 Gallon Classroom Tank
Started by
Guest_MrPierce_*
, Jul 01 2014 01:22 PM
26 replies to this topic
#3
Michael Wolfe
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Posted 01 July 2014 - 05:49 PM
Take a look at this thread about a tank that some of us helped a local nature center set up. We had exactly your goals in mind... looks good, low maintenance, all native, all local, teach about the local environment/habitat, etc. I think that in some ways, that a planted tank is more stable and easier to take care of, so please consider it.
http://forum.nanfa.o...er-opportunity/
I'm not sure which members we might have close to you, but hopefully someone here will speak up and volunteer to help you. You could also consider a NANFA education grant. Look over at the NANFA main page http://www.nanfa.org and look in the bootom middle of that home page for a link to the education grant.
And oh, I would avoid crayfish, they are known fisheaters... and madtoms are a poor choice as they often hide more than they are visible.
http://forum.nanfa.o...er-opportunity/
I'm not sure which members we might have close to you, but hopefully someone here will speak up and volunteer to help you. You could also consider a NANFA education grant. Look over at the NANFA main page http://www.nanfa.org and look in the bootom middle of that home page for a link to the education grant.
And oh, I would avoid crayfish, they are known fisheaters... and madtoms are a poor choice as they often hide more than they are visible.
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#4
Guest_BTDarters_*
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Posted 01 July 2014 - 08:17 PM
Wish I had more time to post now. Just noticed that the NANFA website in Michael's post should be http://www.nanfa.org, not the way he has it spelled. Sorry. That's what being an associate editor of American Currents gets you! 
#6
Guest_MrPierce_*
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Posted 01 July 2014 - 09:59 PM
Thank you for posting the link to your project, and for all of the advice! I will add pictures to what I'm working with to this thread in a week or so when I go in to work on it.
As I plan this out in my mind I feel like I have new questions every minute, which is the goal of this tank for my students so I like it! I may be taking this post in a different direction than I originally intended, but I have a lot of questions about the initial cleaning and setup. Do I need to do serious cleaning on the tank since it held salt water? I have been reading around and have seen suggestions ranging from using bleach or vinegar to just running water through it. Does anyone have any advice to assist in the early converting stages?
Again, thank you very much for all of your help!
I read through the grant, and I was really intrigued! Unfortunately, I do not want to wait until next year to set the tank up. Maybe after my first year with the tank I will be in a better position to write a grant proposal anyway.You could also consider a NANFA education grant. Look over at the NANFA main page http://www.nanfa.org and look in the bottom middle of that home page for a link to the education grant.
As I plan this out in my mind I feel like I have new questions every minute, which is the goal of this tank for my students so I like it! I may be taking this post in a different direction than I originally intended, but I have a lot of questions about the initial cleaning and setup. Do I need to do serious cleaning on the tank since it held salt water? I have been reading around and have seen suggestions ranging from using bleach or vinegar to just running water through it. Does anyone have any advice to assist in the early converting stages?
Again, thank you very much for all of your help!
#7
Guest_Irate Mormon_*
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Posted 01 July 2014 - 10:20 PM
You don't need to disinfect the tank, but if it has an alkaline substrate like crushed coral or something, you will want to replace that. Preferably with a substrate collected by your students. If they don't collect the contents of the tank then it kind of misses the point.
#8
Michael Wolfe
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- North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage
Posted 02 July 2014 - 06:53 AM
Agree with Irate that you don't need to worry much about the tank. I converted from salt to fresh once a long time ago and most of the work was cosmetic. Rinsing an aquarium is a good idea. Cleaning glass with cheap vinegar is common too. But nothing really complex is needed. If you have a filter of any type on the existing tank you should probably just empty it rinse everything and start fresh.
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#9
Guest_harryknaub_*
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Posted 02 July 2014 - 07:49 PM
I believe that Dean Markley is located in Lancaster County and I think that I have seen a few new members pop up in Lancaster, Dauphin or York counties from time to time. You might also try contacting the Aquarium Club of Lancaster County. They usually have a few native enthusiasts in their membership. They meet at That Fish Place on Centerville Rd in Lancaster. Speaking of which, the prices on supplies are very reasonable at That Fish Place.
Harry Knaub
Harry Knaub
#11
Guest_steve_*
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Posted 03 July 2014 - 07:13 PM
A few years ago I converted a 150 gallon from saltwater to freshwater. Like Michael and Irate mentioned, just a quick rinse and go. The saltwater fish appeared healthy so I reused the same gravel with only a sparse rinse and actually even used the same filter media.
I'd also like to second Michael's suggestion of a planted tank. For me, the extra work(fun) in the set up is well worth the rewards of enjoyment and ease of maintenance in the future. Collecting and growing native plants in an aquarium can also be almost as much fun and educational as collecting and keeping the fish. Of course, among other things, the dimensions of your tank may also play into your decision to plant or not to plant. My 150 is 31" deep so I decided not to plant it due to the lighting needs of that water depth, but I'm guessing it could be done.
I'd also like to second Michael's suggestion of a planted tank. For me, the extra work(fun) in the set up is well worth the rewards of enjoyment and ease of maintenance in the future. Collecting and growing native plants in an aquarium can also be almost as much fun and educational as collecting and keeping the fish. Of course, among other things, the dimensions of your tank may also play into your decision to plant or not to plant. My 150 is 31" deep so I decided not to plant it due to the lighting needs of that water depth, but I'm guessing it could be done.
#12
Guest_MrPierce_*
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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:04 PM
I began setting up my classroom today and was able to visit the tank, which is in the process of being dismantled. Other than needing some serious cleaning, it looked excited to have some natives! I have many more questions, but also many more ideas after observing it in greater detail than I have before.
Dimensions: the tank is 69 cm deep, 121 cm long, and 61 cm wide (27" x 47.5" x 24")
The filter system is a bag system and not the typical ones that I have seen before. Any advice on how to set that up or maintain it would be fantastic!
The lighting system on the tank seems pretty sophisticated from what I was expecting, and seems to have different colors of light to represent the different times of day. Should I have this set a certain way? Again, any recommendations/advice are appreciated.
The tank also has two water pumps (I believe that’s what these are) that are currently located on opposite sides of the tank. Setting up a current for the fish seems like a cool idea, but with how deep it is I’m not sure how feasible that is. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should place these in the tank, or if I should just not include them in the set up?
Questions:
Is the tank too deep for plants?
If those are pumps, should I include them?
Advice on setting up/maintaining the bag filter system
Should I mess with the lighting?
Any other advice or setup designs would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again,
Mr. Pierce
Dimensions: the tank is 69 cm deep, 121 cm long, and 61 cm wide (27" x 47.5" x 24")
The filter system is a bag system and not the typical ones that I have seen before. Any advice on how to set that up or maintain it would be fantastic!
The lighting system on the tank seems pretty sophisticated from what I was expecting, and seems to have different colors of light to represent the different times of day. Should I have this set a certain way? Again, any recommendations/advice are appreciated.
The tank also has two water pumps (I believe that’s what these are) that are currently located on opposite sides of the tank. Setting up a current for the fish seems like a cool idea, but with how deep it is I’m not sure how feasible that is. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should place these in the tank, or if I should just not include them in the set up?
Questions:
Is the tank too deep for plants?
If those are pumps, should I include them?
Advice on setting up/maintaining the bag filter system
Should I mess with the lighting?
Any other advice or setup designs would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again,
Mr. Pierce
Edited by MrPierce, 08 July 2014 - 10:06 PM.
#13
Guest_MrPierce_*
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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:16 PM
Preferably with a substrate collected by your students. If they don't collect the contents of the tank then it kind of misses the point.
Irate,
If I collect a local substrate, should I treat it in any way other than sifting out the small stuff?
I definitely agree that it would be best for them to help set up the tank. With my lack of knowledge in setting up/keeping an aquarium in the early stages I would rather have the extra time this summer to get my feet wet (teacher humor never takes a day off!). Unfortunately, it is almost a herculean feat to find as much time as would be necessary to set up the tank with my students. Hopefully we'll be able to collect some fish from the small stream that runs through our campus together!
Steve, do you think that my tank is too deep to do as a planted tank?Of course, among other things, the dimensions of your tank may also play into your decision to plant or not to plant. My 150 is 31" deep so I decided not to plant it due to the lighting needs of that water depth, but I'm guessing it could be done.
Thank you for all of your help!
Mr. Pierce
#14
Guest_steve_*
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Posted 09 July 2014 - 12:14 AM
It looks like the tank and stand are very similar to my 150. Prepare a strategy if you have to move it. It's a hoss.
I'm sure one of that water depth could be planted. I'm not sure how much wattage it would take to get enough light to the bottom. As an example, my deepest planted tank is 18" tall and I've got 5 T8 bulbs setting about 9" above the top of the water. That may be a little overkill but I'm using the plants as the sole form of biological filtration. In my situation; more light = faster plant growth & faster plant growth = more bioload capabilities.(the exact order of that is debatable). There well may be some folks here that have planted tanks with that water depth and would know some specifics about the lighting though.
Your pumps, or powerheads, are a good idea. I'm not sure what fish you have in mind, but darters are masters of current and most species of minnows love 'playing' in current.
I'm sure one of that water depth could be planted. I'm not sure how much wattage it would take to get enough light to the bottom. As an example, my deepest planted tank is 18" tall and I've got 5 T8 bulbs setting about 9" above the top of the water. That may be a little overkill but I'm using the plants as the sole form of biological filtration. In my situation; more light = faster plant growth & faster plant growth = more bioload capabilities.(the exact order of that is debatable). There well may be some folks here that have planted tanks with that water depth and would know some specifics about the lighting though.
Your pumps, or powerheads, are a good idea. I'm not sure what fish you have in mind, but darters are masters of current and most species of minnows love 'playing' in current.
#16
Michael Wolfe
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- North Georgia, Oconee River Drainage
Posted 09 July 2014 - 07:55 PM
I think your tank is deep, but not too deep. You have a nice lighting system so I think you should be able to grow some plants.. at least some long tall vallisnaria sp.
I would not change the lighting system at first... the reef tank person what probably lighting for a 12 hour day... so you will want to make sure you get some plants in there from the beginning or you might get algae growth (something has to eat up all that light... why not make it a nice looking plant instead of algae?).
yes, those are pumps... yes you should use them... but you should think about putting them both on the same side of the aquarium maybe one higher up and one a little lower (or at least pointed lower)... for reefs they were trying to create a back and for motion (so from both sides)... but for natives, you want to simulate a creek with a flow across the front of the tank...
sorry I dont recognize your filter system either...
I would not change the lighting system at first... the reef tank person what probably lighting for a 12 hour day... so you will want to make sure you get some plants in there from the beginning or you might get algae growth (something has to eat up all that light... why not make it a nice looking plant instead of algae?).
yes, those are pumps... yes you should use them... but you should think about putting them both on the same side of the aquarium maybe one higher up and one a little lower (or at least pointed lower)... for reefs they were trying to create a back and for motion (so from both sides)... but for natives, you want to simulate a creek with a flow across the front of the tank...
sorry I dont recognize your filter system either...
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. - Benjamin Franklin
#17
Guest_lilyea_*
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Posted 09 July 2014 - 10:28 PM
The power heads (what you referred to as pumps) look like they might be Hydro brand but I can't tell what model from the picture so it is hard to know their GPH (gallons/hr) rating. Regardless, I agree with Michael about moving the power heads and staggering their height level on the same side of the tank at first and then testing for flow. Although it is hard to tell from the picture, it appears that you also have an overflow and return that will add additional cross flow so you will probably want to use the power heads to work with (not against) the flow of the filtration system.
Speaking of the filtration system, it appears to be a sump with felt filter socks to strain particulate followed by a protein skimmer. I would recommend that you consider switching out the felt filter socks for mesh filter socks that should fit in the same holder. The mesh bags are reusable after they are rinsed out (the felt filter socks aren't designed for the same level of multiple reuse) and the large mesh on the mesh bags won't clog as readily (not to mention that the disposable felt filter socks can get expensive quickly). I'm sure others will have recommendations about the skimmer, but I would suggest this isn't the preferred filtration for the system you have planned (at least by itself). You should be able to (inexpensively) retrofit the sump for a more freshwater appropriate filtration system.
For the lighting system, you may want to scale down the blue during the day (normally reef tanks need more light in the blue spectrum) and leave a bit of blue at night to simulate moonlight (which is what "night" should do). It looks like you have an Aquatic Life T5 HO 4-bulb fixture (T5 is the type of bulb/fixture and HO stands for "high output" which is a 54w bulb instead of 40w for a "normal output" T5 bulb). The current bulbs are probably a mix of 10000k and 420nm actinic which will be blue-ish but should be okay for now. You may want to consider changing to a freshwater T5HO bulb setup (e.g., 6000k and 650 nm roseate) at some point to better mimic sunlight in a freshwater environment and improve plant growth.
Speaking of the filtration system, it appears to be a sump with felt filter socks to strain particulate followed by a protein skimmer. I would recommend that you consider switching out the felt filter socks for mesh filter socks that should fit in the same holder. The mesh bags are reusable after they are rinsed out (the felt filter socks aren't designed for the same level of multiple reuse) and the large mesh on the mesh bags won't clog as readily (not to mention that the disposable felt filter socks can get expensive quickly). I'm sure others will have recommendations about the skimmer, but I would suggest this isn't the preferred filtration for the system you have planned (at least by itself). You should be able to (inexpensively) retrofit the sump for a more freshwater appropriate filtration system.
For the lighting system, you may want to scale down the blue during the day (normally reef tanks need more light in the blue spectrum) and leave a bit of blue at night to simulate moonlight (which is what "night" should do). It looks like you have an Aquatic Life T5 HO 4-bulb fixture (T5 is the type of bulb/fixture and HO stands for "high output" which is a 54w bulb instead of 40w for a "normal output" T5 bulb). The current bulbs are probably a mix of 10000k and 420nm actinic which will be blue-ish but should be okay for now. You may want to consider changing to a freshwater T5HO bulb setup (e.g., 6000k and 650 nm roseate) at some point to better mimic sunlight in a freshwater environment and improve plant growth.
#18
Guest_MrPierce_*
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Posted 10 July 2014 - 10:54 AM
Thank you for your help Lilyea! I did some research on the filtration system last night, and it seems that I have some refitting to do. I was thinking of doing a 3 section sump tank starting with a sponge filter in the first half of section one, then bioballs or some other bio-filter medium in the bottom of the first section and in the second section. I got the idea from http://www.oscarfish...um-sump-filters
I have read a few reviews that bioballs are a "nitrate factory" and that I should be wary of them. Has anyone used them before?
I have read a few reviews that bioballs are a "nitrate factory" and that I should be wary of them. Has anyone used them before?
#19
Guest_steve_*
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Posted 10 July 2014 - 12:23 PM
I've not used the bioballs but I did use the biostars in the canister filter for my 150 before changing the biological filtration to an algae scrubber. If I understand it right, the idea of bioballs and biostars, etc.. is the same; more surface area for bacteria to colonize to convert more ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. The nitrates were high at that time in the tank and hard to control even with routine filter and tank cleanings, but I always assumed it was due to the high bioload in the tank.
#20
Guest_lilyea_*
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Posted 10 July 2014 - 08:07 PM
The bio-ball setup that you illustrated is one of the classic approaches that many have moved away from but is still open for debate. I personally would only lean toward using bio-balls above the water line as a type of trickle filter (and if there is an effective pre-filter). I don't know if you already have the bio-balls, but if not there may be less expensive alternatives. One approach would be to add short mesh filter socks where the felt filter socks are currently which will catch the large debris/waste. Below the socks in the same sump chamber you could build a platform using "egg crate" commercial lighting panels on PVC pipe legs with the panel at or about the water line. On top of the panel in a plastic water garden basket (>$3 @ Lowes or HD) or something similar, add a layer of bio media which could be the bio-balls or lava rock (>$4 @ Lowes or HD), and then cover the bio-media with blue filter material ($5-10 @ Lowes or HD). You may have to modify this approach (or the thickness of each layer) depending on the distance between the water level in the sump and the filter bag mount. Additionally, I would suggest that you consider leaving the protein skimmer in the center chamber of the sump (at least initially). Although often not used in freshwater system, skimmers work on the same concept as foam fractionators in water treatment systems and can be beneficial for heavier bio-loads.
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