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Southern Redbelly Dace Breeding Specifics


3 replies to this topic

#1 Evan P

Evan P
  • NANFA Guest
  • Knoxville, TN

Posted 03 December 2015 - 02:39 AM

I have a group of those odd Southern Redbellies from Oklahoma that I'd like to try breeding. I have a chiller and a riffle 20 Long aquarium that they are in. I have read most of the articles out there, but I can't seem to find anything where the author manually manipulated the temperature. How far down do I really need to drop the temperature? For how long? How slowly should I raise and lower it? What kind of photoperiod am I looking for, and at what rate should I change it? Thank you all very much for your help! If all goes well, I should have plenty of fry to share.
3,000-4,000 Gallon Pond Full of all sorts of spawning fishes! http://forum.nanfa.org/index.php/topic/13811-3560-gallon-native-fish-pond/page-3 
 

#2 littlen

littlen
  • NANFA Member
  • Washington, D.C.

Posted 03 December 2015 - 07:45 AM

Yeahson, the Redbellies shouldn't need a dramatic cool-down and warm-up to induce spawning.  So save your chiller for a cool, darter breeding experiment!  

 

My experience spawning Redbellies had more to do with photoperiod (and most of that was natural, ambient lighting).  A big water change using new water that is several degrees cooler than the tank currently is could trigger them.  That's how many others have likely gotten them to reproduce as well.  When you see your males get fired up, and the females look plump, try a big, cool water change.  They'll usually find a place that is suitable to deposit eggs even if you don't provide an artificial chub nest.

 

The following numbers are completely arbitrary.  But if you see colorful males and gravid females, try doing a good 50% WC and drop the tank 3, 4, 5, 6, 7...? degrees?  I don't think there is a magic number.  The 'catalyst' if you will, of a water change and new, cooler water does the trick.  It will naturally warm back up over the next few hours but that's ok.  They'll usually start spawning shortly thereafter.  You can repeat the WC a few days down the road if nothing happens.

If you fish don't have access to any ambient lighting, then I would say 10hrs. light, 14hrs. dark for winter, and the reverse of that for summer hours.  You can +1/-1 hour for each as your increase or decrease for spring and fall.

 

Hope that helps a little.


Nick L.

#3 Matt DeLaVega

Matt DeLaVega
  • Forum Staff
  • Ohio

Posted 03 December 2015 - 10:38 AM

Heavy feeding as well. Not many midges hatching or algae growing during winter. Feeding them a good amount of live food or frozen food should simulate spring conditions.


The member formerly known as Skipjack


#4 smbass

smbass
  • Board of Directors

Posted 10 December 2015 - 09:16 PM

Yeah I have had similar experience with them too. No trouble getting them to spawn without any kind of a wintering period. Just take good care of them and then do a big water change when they look nice and fat and ready to spawn. 


Brian J. Zimmerman

Gambier, Ohio - Kokosing River Drainage




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