Thanks guys, I'll try to construct something like that.
My immediate plan is to remove the fish, drain the tank down to just above the substrate (leaving the mossy driftwood above the waterline) and dose with H2O2. I will also scrub down the tank back, outflow nozzles, and rocks with H2O2. Then I will just have to fill the tank back up, dechlorinate, and return the fish. I will do this sometime this week or early next, depending on availability of assistance.
Newt's big tank renovation thread
Started by
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, Mar 21 2008 05:27 PM
56 replies to this topic
#42
Guest_nativeplanter_*
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 11:40 AM
Do you know if there is phosphorus added to your tap water during treatment? If so, you might want to use DI water and reconstitute it. I'm assuming, of course, that there is DI water to be had at the school.
#43
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 11:42 AM
There is DI water, but the administrators would NOT be pleased about me using 300 gallons of it. I do not know about the phosphorus; I can find out easily enough.
#44
Guest_Clayton_*
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 02:56 PM
If you've got anything left in the budget an RO/DI unit might help your problem if the issue is phosphate. You could also try some sort of chemical filtration media to remove phosphate. It will cost more over time, but it is easier and cheaper up front.
#45
Guest_mikez_*
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 03:22 PM
I don't know about there, but around here, unless you have your own well, phosphates will almost certainly be added by the water department.
If you can't get DI water, or purchase your own DI unit, give the water department a call. I've worked for a few different water departments and I can tell you I wouldn't mind hooking up a resident with water taken from before the phosphate pump.
If you can't get DI water, or purchase your own DI unit, give the water department a call. I've worked for a few different water departments and I can tell you I wouldn't mind hooking up a resident with water taken from before the phosphate pump.
#46
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 04:44 PM
I don't know about there, but around here, unless you have your own well, phosphates will almost certainly be added by the water department.
If you can't get DI water, or purchase your own DI unit, give the water department a call. I've worked for a few different water departments and I can tell you I wouldn't mind hooking up a resident with water taken from before the phosphate pump.
You know, I never thought of that. Good to remember, as we most likely moving to a house on city water.
Although I can see it now - Nate dragging in 300 gallons via 5-gallon buckets!
#47
Guest_blakemarkwell_*
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 05:46 PM
I have been looking into my own little DI/RO unit for use in the near future, but I was curious, what do you guys use? I know you can buy them for around ~150-200 dollars, but it seems if you had a large aquarium you would be replacing the filter every two to three water changes.... is this true? Also, I seen where businesses will actually come and install a DI/RO unit for you, around here we have The Culligan Man The Culligan Website What's a good route to go? And by the way Newt, nice looking tank, personally I think a little bit of algae looks good and natural, and those are some fine Pimephales you got there.
Blake
Blake
#48
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 11 September 2008 - 05:56 PM
Thanks, Blake! Sadly, the fatheads are expendable; I got them to help get the nitrogen cycle cranking and provide some movement until the other stock arrived. I fully expect the warmouth to annihilate them once their gape is adequate (it's getting close).
Now that I think of it, there was an RO/DI unit stored under the tank left over from its saltwater days. I gave the unit to some fellows who were going to set up another tank in the building with carnivorous plants; that project seems to have fizzled. I'll have to see if I can reclaim it from those guys. Do you guys think half-and-half DI/tap is workable? It'll still be a pain, since the RO/DI is only good for 5 gallons at a time, and I usually do WC's of 100 gallons or so.
Mike- Good idea on the water department. We've done some CSS impact studies for them; I don't know if that counts for us or against us...
Now that I think of it, there was an RO/DI unit stored under the tank left over from its saltwater days. I gave the unit to some fellows who were going to set up another tank in the building with carnivorous plants; that project seems to have fizzled. I'll have to see if I can reclaim it from those guys. Do you guys think half-and-half DI/tap is workable? It'll still be a pain, since the RO/DI is only good for 5 gallons at a time, and I usually do WC's of 100 gallons or so.
Mike- Good idea on the water department. We've done some CSS impact studies for them; I don't know if that counts for us or against us...
#49
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 12:08 PM
Had a big tank-cleaning party last night. We drained the tank, netted out all the fish (except for one sneaky warmouth who managed to hide out somewhere throughout the whole event), scrubbed down the sides and driftwood, rinsed off the substrate, took out the larger rocks and scrubbed them, applied peroxide to everything, refilled the tank, and returned the fish. The tank is still cloudy this morning, but all the fish appear fine. I'm going to get some polyfill to deal with the cloudiness.
The oddest part of the night occurred when I was returning the fish, about three hours after refilling the tank. The minnows blanched dead white instantly upon being placed in the tank water; they slowly regained their color over the next hour. I did not notice any other signs of distress, or at least no more than I would normally expect after their upheaval; they darted around the tank a bit and appeared to be breathing hard, but this quickly subsided. The sunfish seemed unfazed.
By the way, that sneaky warmouth did reappear once the tank was filled and seems to be just fine.
The oddest part of the night occurred when I was returning the fish, about three hours after refilling the tank. The minnows blanched dead white instantly upon being placed in the tank water; they slowly regained their color over the next hour. I did not notice any other signs of distress, or at least no more than I would normally expect after their upheaval; they darted around the tank a bit and appeared to be breathing hard, but this quickly subsided. The sunfish seemed unfazed.
By the way, that sneaky warmouth did reappear once the tank was filled and seems to be just fine.
#50
Guest_natureman187_*
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Posted 18 September 2008 - 06:06 AM
Nathan I've got a permanent 45 gallon yard waste can under my downspout. See if the folks at the center will let you put a barrel under the gutter out back. It's the cheapest r/o water you'll find and in a week you'll have an unlimited supply of mosquito larva 
Oh and round cans don't bow out so you can lid em and the pH is not consistent with each rain and if the gutters are full of junk you'll get hydra and bloodworms...gnats fyi.
Oh and round cans don't bow out so you can lid em and the pH is not consistent with each rain and if the gutters are full of junk you'll get hydra and bloodworms...gnats fyi.
#51
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 18 September 2008 - 10:43 AM
Good idea, Lance, but I'm not sure I trust the runoff from this building's roof. There are probably worse things than phosphates in it.
#52
Guest_jimjim_*
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Posted 18 September 2008 - 02:35 PM
Newt; I've been excavating garbaage from my garage. I found a 100 gal/hr R/O unit I'd forgotten about. Theres no storage tank with it but you're welcome to it if you pay postage...Jim
#53
Guest_Clayton_*
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Posted 19 September 2008 - 09:40 AM
A float valve might solve your issues on refilling the tank. Look into an auto top-off system. They are generally cheap and easily home made. Draining 100 gallons and leaving the DI unit to run while you're gone should fill it back up and stop when it gets to the float. It also resolves any issues with evaporation. The only downside is that your water will get progressively softer which may or may not be optimal for your needs. If that is the case some sort of water hardener could be added back in the day after a water change. Make sure you test it occasionally though. A misbehaving float valve can be problematic if it allows your tank to overfill.
The question of how often a filter needs to be changed is hard to answer. Depending on the make up of the water you're filtering and the specific filter you are using it can vary quite a lot.
Where are the pictures if you cleaned up the tank?
The question of how often a filter needs to be changed is hard to answer. Depending on the make up of the water you're filtering and the specific filter you are using it can vary quite a lot.
Where are the pictures if you cleaned up the tank?
#54
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 19 September 2008 - 01:16 PM
Thanks guys, but I think I'm going to just try adding more vegetation, increasing water change frequency, and possibly adding powerheads for improved circulation across the substrate and see how that works. I've already gotten a fancier timer so I can run the more powerful HO T5 flourescents on a shorter cycle than the T-12's.
There is no plumbing within spitting distance of the tank (we have to run hoses across the lobby to drain or refill it), so an auto-topoff is infeasible and a high-capacity RO/DI system cannot be installed in the neighborhood of the tank. Besides that, I'm really hesitant to drop or raise the hardness so drastically every few days; it seems bound to have ill effects on the inhabitants. Speaking of which, I'm going to order some longears and mudminnows from Zimmerman's as soon as I get budget approval. Finally gonna get some more diversity in the tank!
I'll take some photos today and post 'em.
There is no plumbing within spitting distance of the tank (we have to run hoses across the lobby to drain or refill it), so an auto-topoff is infeasible and a high-capacity RO/DI system cannot be installed in the neighborhood of the tank. Besides that, I'm really hesitant to drop or raise the hardness so drastically every few days; it seems bound to have ill effects on the inhabitants. Speaking of which, I'm going to order some longears and mudminnows from Zimmerman's as soon as I get budget approval. Finally gonna get some more diversity in the tank!
I'll take some photos today and post 'em.
#56
Guest_Clayton_*
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Posted 22 September 2008 - 04:57 PM
If the issue is phosphates that are coming in the tap, then water changes won't be much help. More plants will definitely help regardless.
You'd have a very minor drop/raise in hardness. It would only happen during water changes, and all you'd need to do to avoid it would be to add something to harden the water before you add it. The water level would stay steady and the minerals don't evaporate with the water. So a top off system shouldn't change the levels. Not that it matters since it won't work in your situation anyhow.
Regardless, the tank looks really good after a slight application of elbow grease. Can't wait for pics of the new arrivals.
You'd have a very minor drop/raise in hardness. It would only happen during water changes, and all you'd need to do to avoid it would be to add something to harden the water before you add it. The water level would stay steady and the minerals don't evaporate with the water. So a top off system shouldn't change the levels. Not that it matters since it won't work in your situation anyhow.
Regardless, the tank looks really good after a slight application of elbow grease. Can't wait for pics of the new arrivals.
#57
Guest_boringname_*
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Posted 22 April 2009 - 10:15 PM
I have to know, how did all this end?
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