In case you don't know, I am completely ignorant of the process aside from the bits and pieces I've absorbed from others while sampling. Any responses will not be too dumb for me.
I've looked for some type of universally accepted protocol for numbering specimens but from what I've gathered, standards are local at best. I will be taking limited vouchers this year but want to start off right. I see the amount of data requested on the tag itself is overwhelming (collectors name, date collected, detailed location, elevation, latitude/longitude, water depth, Genus & Species and collection method) This is far too much data to put on a tag placed through the mouth (unless sampling adult sucker or bass).
I'm curious to know what kind of information is required for good record keeping on such small tags. I recall seeing others use a two part ID code with a couple of letters and four or more digits. So what does this mean or better yet, how do you establish a system of records for your voucher specimens? Anyone mind taking a photo of a tag and explaining what it means?
Sorry for silly questions but I'd like to get a system in place before I take specimens and have to re-tag them once I've discovered major mistakes in my thoughts.
Questions about tagging voucher specimens
Started by
Guest_Uland_*
, Apr 07 2009 11:18 AM
30 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_daveneely_*
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Posted 07 April 2009 - 02:32 PM
hey Uland,
I use field numbers to identify each locality (e.g., DAN09-07 for 7th site in 2009), and decimals after that to identify each fish I take photos or tissues from; this only works if you keep detailed notes while you're doing this (e.g., .01-Campostoma oligolepis nuptial male, photo + tissue; .02-Campostoma oligolepis juvenile; photo + tissue .03-Nocomis micropogon, tissue only; etc.) It's best if everything from each site goes in a single jar with a more detailed label, but the beauty of individually tagged specimens means that if I run low on jars on a trip I don't have to resort to using gatorade bottles. All the other data you mentioned goes into a fieldbook. A lot of herpers use sequential #s, but I ran into a case of different folks using just numerical tags for tissues on an expedition and don't want to repeat that, ever. I don't have to worry about finding someone else with my initials, unless we're on a trip together, as I can add a full label to each species lot when I sort each collection later.
tags are approx. 1" x 0.25", of a heavy 100% rag cardstock that will not break down in fluid, with a 1/8 or 1/16" hole, hand-numbered on site with a Sakura Micron archival ink pen; I use cotton surgical thread to attach tags to specimen; wrap thread around a beer bottle many times and cut once with a razor blade to cut multiple equal-length pieces.
I'll try to take tag photos and tying tutorial asap.
cheers,
Dave
I use field numbers to identify each locality (e.g., DAN09-07 for 7th site in 2009), and decimals after that to identify each fish I take photos or tissues from; this only works if you keep detailed notes while you're doing this (e.g., .01-Campostoma oligolepis nuptial male, photo + tissue; .02-Campostoma oligolepis juvenile; photo + tissue .03-Nocomis micropogon, tissue only; etc.) It's best if everything from each site goes in a single jar with a more detailed label, but the beauty of individually tagged specimens means that if I run low on jars on a trip I don't have to resort to using gatorade bottles. All the other data you mentioned goes into a fieldbook. A lot of herpers use sequential #s, but I ran into a case of different folks using just numerical tags for tissues on an expedition and don't want to repeat that, ever. I don't have to worry about finding someone else with my initials, unless we're on a trip together, as I can add a full label to each species lot when I sort each collection later.
tags are approx. 1" x 0.25", of a heavy 100% rag cardstock that will not break down in fluid, with a 1/8 or 1/16" hole, hand-numbered on site with a Sakura Micron archival ink pen; I use cotton surgical thread to attach tags to specimen; wrap thread around a beer bottle many times and cut once with a razor blade to cut multiple equal-length pieces.
I'll try to take tag photos and tying tutorial asap.
cheers,
Dave
#3
Guest_Uland_*
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Posted 07 April 2009 - 03:02 PM
Very, very helpful Dave, thank you. Fortunately I happen to have #80 vellum cardstock (archival quality) ready cut awaiting a hole punch. Specimen containers are in route. I have only the ink pen to pick up which seems I can obtain locally due to the recent interest in scrap booking. Wrapping the surgical thread around a bottle is a good idea. I just need to button up the propanol source and I should be ready.
#5
Guest_daveneely_*
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Posted 07 April 2009 - 08:33 PM
hey Uland,
Be sure to test your cardstock for fluid resistance; if the strings rip through the tags, all of your efforts are wasted. Some kinds work better than others. The .01 tip seems to work best on the pens (.005 bends too easy, bigger nibs don't dry as quickly). Also, if possible, don't use isopropanol -- even though it's cheap and readily available, specimens fade out much quicker than un-denatured ethanol, it doesn't work as well for DNA extraction, and it's about 1000x more toxic than ethanol. Most serious museums have switched over to ethanol. I can set you up with some chemicals when you're down this way next.
Be sure to test your cardstock for fluid resistance; if the strings rip through the tags, all of your efforts are wasted. Some kinds work better than others. The .01 tip seems to work best on the pens (.005 bends too easy, bigger nibs don't dry as quickly). Also, if possible, don't use isopropanol -- even though it's cheap and readily available, specimens fade out much quicker than un-denatured ethanol, it doesn't work as well for DNA extraction, and it's about 1000x more toxic than ethanol. Most serious museums have switched over to ethanol. I can set you up with some chemicals when you're down this way next.
#6
Guest_Uland_*
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Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:03 PM
On the way home I stopped by the arts and crafts chain (Micheals) and they had sakura pens. I picked up the 05 tip (.45mm) and it does seem a bit fat. They did have a smaller tip size that I'll have to check out soon.
I will get a tag on test ASAP, thanks for the heads up.
I think I've been warned about isopropanol before...golly ethanol is hard to come by. Any issues with using Everclear? I know it's few percent short of 100% but it's pretty easy to come by. Our county banned it's sale since apparently it can be used in processing street drugs, but that still seems easier than getting ethanol as preservative.
I will get a tag on test ASAP, thanks for the heads up.
I think I've been warned about isopropanol before...golly ethanol is hard to come by. Any issues with using Everclear? I know it's few percent short of 100% but it's pretty easy to come by. Our county banned it's sale since apparently it can be used in processing street drugs, but that still seems easier than getting ethanol as preservative.
#7
Guest_rjmtx_*
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Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:42 PM
Everclear is what you should get. I prefer "Golden Grain" since it's the good cheap stuff. I think it's about 95% which is good for tissue samples. I'm not sure what you're using it for exactly, but I keep fish that are fixed in formalin on 70% and tissues on 95%. I had to go the storebought hooch route when I was an undergrad doing invert samples, and now my last bottle of "Golden Grain" is the most aged bottle in the hose. I'm spoiled now that I can just go visit the 55 gal drum for all my EtOH needs. I just wish I could get whiskey like that.
#8
Guest_airbrn1187_*
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Posted 08 April 2009 - 01:46 AM
Hey Uland, Dont worry about the pens or ethanol. I just placed an order with Bioquip so I should have it in time for our trip. I think I got a gallon of the stuff so we should be okay. I plan on using it for some insect larvae.
#9
Guest_ashtonmj_*
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Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:58 AM
One thing I'll give EPA credit for in their monstrous NRSA survey is the indivudal fish vouchering procedure. Individual fish get a uniquely numbered tag, that and the fish goes in a strip of onion bag and you zip tie both ends of the bag. The bag stretchs to the shape of the fish pretty nicely and it comes in a few sizes. That way all the fish vouchers from one site can go in one jar and tags aren't through the fish. The information on the tag isn't as detailed but that is because the ID number references a larger data sheet. Not sure my fingers are steady enough to thread a strand to a tag through a 2" minnows mouth.
I like 0.25 tip pens but I rarely write on something other than a 2" X 3" label.
I like 0.25 tip pens but I rarely write on something other than a 2" X 3" label.
#12
Guest_nativeplanter_*
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Posted 08 April 2009 - 11:59 AM
The #80 premium paper became very fragile when wet. I'll begin testing other paper.
Mark, I notice the ethanol they sell as preservative is denatured....is that the right stuff?
Would Rite-in-the-Rain paper be eaten by the ethanol?
#14
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 08 April 2009 - 12:38 PM
Denatured is fine for general preservation, especially of formalin-fixed specimens. If you want good tissue samples for later molecular work, you have to spring for the good stuff- undenatured, 95% or better. You can take a small sample from each fish and put that in a vial of undenatured ethanol, then preserve the remainder of the fish the old-fashioned way (fixation in 10% formalin followed by storage in ca. 70% ethanol). I'm not sure what the standard tissue sample is for fish; for herps we use terminal phalanges or tail tips. It doesn't take much, thanks to PCR.
Oh, and you want 100% rag paper stock- cotton or linen, no wood pulp. Acid free, of course.
Oh, and you want 100% rag paper stock- cotton or linen, no wood pulp. Acid free, of course.
Edited by Newt, 08 April 2009 - 12:40 PM.
#15
Guest_daveneely_*
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Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:10 AM
One thing I'll give EPA credit for in their monstrous NRSA survey is the indivudal fish vouchering procedure. Individual fish get a uniquely numbered tag, that and the fish goes in a strip of onion bag and you zip tie both ends of the bag. The bag stretchs to the shape of the fish pretty nicely and it comes in a few sizes. That way all the fish vouchers from one site can go in one jar and tags aren't through the fish. The information on the tag isn't as detailed but that is because the ID number references a larger data sheet. Not sure my fingers are steady enough to thread a strand to a tag through a 2" minnows mouth.
Those onion bags used by themselves are the single worst idea EPA ever had. The fins get split, broken, and the plastic mesh rips the scales off of delicate things like shiners. I don't envy the poor sap that gets stuck with a bunch of mixed volucellus/wickliffi/stramineus and has to confirm IDs after they've been in an onion bag and lost most of their scales. I'll probably get chewed out for not following prototcol -- most of the fragile vouchers I processed for NRSA last year got sorted, wrapped in cotton cheesecloth, and then onion bagged. Whoever came up with the protocol wasn't planning on getting 50 or 60 species at a site, either, but that's a different issue...
I use a heavy sewing needle to thread cotton surgical thread either through the mouth and out a gill opening (small fish) or in the mouth and out through the gular region. It's not going to break easily, and I can individually tag stuff down to Elassoma size.
#17
Guest_Uland_*
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Posted 09 April 2009 - 10:33 AM
I really appreciate the help. I intend to photo live fish, place in MS222, clip a pectoral fin and place it in a 2 ml centrifuge vial along with ethanol for DNA record. I will then fix the fish in formalin to later be placed in ethanol. Oh, while I'm sponging info from y'all, I recall reading one author places his fish in a distilled water bath for a week with regular water changes as transition from formalin to ethanol. Do you think this a good idea, bad idea or simply unnecessary?
I did find a very durable paper....drafting vellum. It's considerably thinner than cardstock but it is incredibly durable when wet. I also picked up a #1 sakura pen.
I did find a very durable paper....drafting vellum. It's considerably thinner than cardstock but it is incredibly durable when wet. I also picked up a #1 sakura pen.
#18
Guest_Newt_*
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Posted 09 April 2009 - 10:49 AM
I use a water bath between fixation and placement in final storage solution. Honestly tap water works just fine, and 24 hours is plenty for small specimens (too long and you may get mold growth). This is just to get the bulk of the free formalin out of the specimen's tissues, so you won't have lingering formalin odor and irritation; it has little or no effect on preservation.
#19
Guest_nativeplanter_*
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Posted 09 April 2009 - 10:55 AM
Uland - I can't remember if you have worked with formalin before. Some people are allergic to it, to varying degrees. For me, the result is bloodshot, watery eyes, lost voice due to inflammation, and a mega headache. This is after tissues have been soaked in water for 24 hours. You may want to test out your sensitivity beforehand.
#20
Guest_rjmtx_*
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Posted 09 April 2009 - 11:07 AM
On formalin sensitivity: Just like any allergy it can come up after time and exposure. This is a fear put into us young fisheries workers by the old timers with stories of competent fish biologists basically crippled (as far as fish biology goes) by a formalin allergy that sprung up. I'm generally careful with it, but if you're around it enough you're bound to get bit by it. Other than field work, I'd always mess with large amounts outside or next to an open window with good air circulation. Wear at least gloves and goggles. Some people wear respirators, too. I know people that have inhaled too much in a van spill and got poisoning from it, not knowing that it's actually illegal to carry inside of a car. Which brings me to another point: don't transport it in your car. Put it in a bed of a truck or on the roof. You don't want to pay for a HazMat cleanup or worse.
On the other hand, as Rick James might say, formalin is one hell of a drug. Not in the strictest sense, but it does do amazing things preservation-wise. I like to do a three day rinse after setting samples for two weeks on formalin. I'll dump the formalin in the disposal container (not down a sink), rinse the sample, and then let it sit in tap water for a day. Next day I'll empty the water and refill. Repeat. After that, samples go on 70% EtOH. This will give you a well set and sweet smelling sample. After mastering this, the next step logical step is a job at a funeral home.
On the other hand, as Rick James might say, formalin is one hell of a drug. Not in the strictest sense, but it does do amazing things preservation-wise. I like to do a three day rinse after setting samples for two weeks on formalin. I'll dump the formalin in the disposal container (not down a sink), rinse the sample, and then let it sit in tap water for a day. Next day I'll empty the water and refill. Repeat. After that, samples go on 70% EtOH. This will give you a well set and sweet smelling sample. After mastering this, the next step logical step is a job at a funeral home.
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