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Okefenokee Sunfish tank


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#61 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 12:14 PM

The tank is completely clear and all the plants are growing great. I have to trim my hornwort almost daily and already have new water lettuce plants starting to take over. Now I just need to get the fish and add in live blackworms (also might add a few more shrimp...).
I like the Banded Pygmies, and I think for the price I'd rather go with them. I am PMing you now gzeiger about them.
I'm going to look into ordering the pygmy killis sometime this weekend as well.
Hoping to have this tank stocked and fairly soon.

#62 Guest_Okiimiru_*

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Posted 13 August 2010 - 07:19 AM

I noticed in your picture that your banana plants have their roots mostly submerged. The people at http://aqualandpetsp...ant, Banana.htm recommend not burying the roots.

And this book, Ecology of the Planted Aquarium, is highly informative. They call it the Walstad method because of her name, Diana Walstad: http://www.amazon.co...c/dp/0967377315

I don't know if you've read this already or not, but it's nice to know: http://www.fishkeepi...ing-article.htm

You also might find these articles interesting:
http://www.thekrib.c...rate-jamie.html
http://www.thekrib.c...te-jamie.html#1
Because look how pretty kitty litter can be: http://www.plantedta...trate-i-do.html

Also, if you're tempted by the idea of CO2, here's a nice reliable seller of inexpensive CO2 parts: http://aqmagic.com/s...products_id=160 I use that model in my 55 gallon aquarium.

If you want planting ideas, check out the Aquatic Gardeners Association Aquascaping Contest. There's stuff like: http://showcase.aqua...y=0&vol=3&id=70

*nods* Good luck :)

Edited by Okiimiru, 13 August 2010 - 07:22 AM.


#63 Guest_nativeplanter_*

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Posted 13 August 2010 - 07:36 AM

I would not reccomend leaving banana plants unplanted. They do much better partially planted so they can grow fine roots in the substrate. They will then be able to take on their normal form as water lilies, sending pads up to the surface. When left unplanted, I have noticed that they tend to stay stunted and dwindle.

Other than that, it sounds like you are happy with your setup (which sounds nice, by the way). If that is the case, I wouldn't change a thing.

#64 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 15 August 2010 - 04:08 AM

Thanks for the links.
On the Banana plants: The tips of the rhizomes are all the is buried into the sand. The one closer to the front though came with fairly small rhizomes so that's probably why it looks like it is completely buried. These guys are growing a really good root structure as they are and I'm excited for them to send pads up.
Speaking of lily pads, the dwarf lily's growth exploded over night (literally). It is starting to fill out the middle spot I left for it and has set 1 pad to the surface, with another half where there. Not as impressive as the 1 in my 120 sending up about a dozen pads 2 feet to the surface lol, but it looks great nonetheless.
Everything has filled out nicely. I am just waiting to get the pygmies in. In the mean time my Betta has the tank to himself (and the inverts). There are times when I loose him in all of the plants lol, but he loves having all the room and has been building bubble nest nonstop.

I'll post a recent pic when I get a chance so you guys can see the change. With how well it's all growing now I don't plan on using CO2.

#65 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 07:35 PM

Just wanted to update with a current pic. I'm pleased with this tank so far.
Posted Image

I'm just waiting on the fish now...

#66 Guest_Elijah_*

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 01:08 PM

Your tank looks great!
You're not going to leave a betta in there are you?

#67 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 05:51 PM

Thank you.
And lol, no the Betta will be going into a 10 gallon once I get the pygmies.

#68 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 28 August 2010 - 08:48 PM

It looks like this tank may have to be scrapped...
I may need it for some fish coming out of my 120.
I still have an empty 10 gallon. I could do 1 or 2 pairs of either the Okefenokees or Bandeds in there...

#69 Guest_nativeplanter_*

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 12:25 PM

You know, I always thought that pygmys looked better in smaller tanks anyway. They seem to get lost in big tanks. With a smaller tank, you get closer to it to look, and then the fish can really shine. I think that smaller planted tanks are easier to manage, too - fewer species might be in it, but they are less likely to grow all willy-nilly over each other if you don't have time to prune/etc.

#70 Guest_Elijah_*

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:30 PM

It looks like this tank may have to be scrapped...
I may need it for some fish coming out of my 120.
I still have an empty 10 gallon. I could do 1 or 2 pairs of either the Okefenokees or Bandeds in there...

I keep my E. evergladei in a ten gallon- heavily planted. I have 10+, no filter/airstone..., no problem. Lots of fry! I am the Walstad method preacher, so I have to recommend it.
The only tank I had not set up this way had some issues this week. Now it is also.

#71 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 12:41 AM

Yeah that's the route I plan on taking I think. I have 10 gallon that I was going to put a betta in, but he'll be fine with some other fish in my 15.
I plan on using the walstad method in the 10 and use trimmings from the 40 to plant it. I figure I'll start with 3 or so pairs and let them multiply.
Since I am only doing 6 fish now though, I might spring for the Okefenokees, but I am still open to other species if I can get them for a better price.

#72 Guest_Fatman_*

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 01:29 AM

Well with the 40 going to the South American fish my native tank idea was put on hiatus. I do have a mostly empty 15 gallon tank now though. So I am working on an idea to do pygmy sunfish and pygmy killis (may do without the killis) in here with the Cherry Shrimp that already inhabit the tank.
I will try and plant it as densely as possible with a sand bottom, but probably won't use the Walstad method. Lighting will be 2 10W PC lights. And filtration will come from the plants, a small sponge filter and possibly an AC20 set to the lowest flow rate. Plants will most likely not be natives, but whatever low-medium light plants I think will look nice, and I plan using a good amount of driftwood.

I'll update this tank as I go. Will probably wait until nicer weather to actually get the fish.

#73 Guest_EricaWieser_*

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 08:35 AM

I will try and plant it as densely as possible with a sand bottom, but probably won't use the Walstad method. Lighting will be 2 10W PC lights.

Sand is basically pure silicon dioxide. There are no calcium, iron, magnesium, or other nutrients that plants could use to grow. If you use sand and expect plants to grow, then you have to also use some sort of outside fertilizer. Have you read this article? http://www.thekrib.c...rate-jamie.html That article has percent compositions of soil, kitty litter, and fluorite. You can see what the components are of each and how if you use one of those, the nutrients are already available and you will not have to worry so much about a fertilization regime. If you pick a substrate with a high cation exchange coefficient as well, the nutrients will not get used up as much over time by the plants and will be at a fairly constant level far into the future.

Also, I recommend 6500 K bulbs in your lights. That's the color temperature of the sun and plants grow better at 6000 K than at 3000 K. Here's some additional reading:
http://en.wikipedia....lor_temperature
http://www.thekrib.c...t-spectrum.html

#74 Guest_nativeplanter_*

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 12:37 PM

Sand is basically pure silicon dioxide. There are no calcium, iron, magnesium, or other nutrients that plants could use to grow. If you use sand and expect plants to grow, then you have to also use some sort of outside fertilizer. Have you read this article? http://www.thekrib.c...rate-jamie.html That article has percent compositions of soil, kitty litter, and fluorite. You can see what the components are of each and how if you use one of those, the nutrients are already available and you will not have to worry so much about a fertilization regime. If you pick a substrate with a high cation exchange coefficient as well, the nutrients will not get used up as much over time by the plants and will be at a fairly constant level far into the future.

Also, I recommend 6500 K bulbs in your lights. That's the color temperature of the sun and plants grow better at 6000 K than at 3000 K. Here's some additional reading:
http://en.wikipedia....lor_temperature
http://www.thekrib.c...t-spectrum.html


Agreed. Most plants do not grow very well in plain sand. It has a very low CEC value. However, if you can mix a good amount of clay and silt into it, it would work much better and have the same aesthetic look. Alternatively, you can use a half inch of sand to cover a different substrate to get the appearance of a sand bottom.




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